rocket350

ok i spent the last 2 days searching how to prep engine to get pulled out but came up a little dry.

Can someone help me find what im looking for or give me the step by step way to do it?

MDchanic

What do you mean, "prep?"

Drain oil, drain coolant, disconnect wires, remove radiator, remove fan, unbolt exhaust, remove distributor (unless you're brave), attach hoist, unbolt converter, transmission flange, and motor mounts, remove engine.

- Eric

lemoldsnut

I agree with Eric. I would add put a jack under the trans, take lots of pictures and label things. If you are asking this the more preperation you do the better. Have lots of room and take your time. I also advise having someone there to help. The first one is tricky. Plus the safety of a second set of hands is always good. Oh and mark the position of the hood to the hood hindges prior to removing it. Helps when putting it all back together.

Hope this helps
Larry

rocket350

yea by prep i mean, preparation before lifting engine out, o yea gonna be taking lots of pictures, just went out and bought brand new 24 pack of batteries for camera. ok so its been sitting for 15 years, reason for taking engine out is freeze plugs rusted out, and also want to do gaskets.

also since its been sitting, should i do anything to the transmission or will that be ok. car only has 69,000 miles on her.

also im looking for input on anything i should improve or replace in the engine bay that would need to be done involving the engine coming out.

thanks guys, for the starting points

kitfoxdave

A tilt adapter on the hoist helps A LOT!.... I pulled off the Radiator core supoort (rotted under battery!) gave LOTS of easy access! Definately extra hands and eyes helps to swing and watch EVERYTHING that you find you should have removed first!
Good luck!

rocket350

do i absolutely need an engine stand or can i rest the engine on tires or something,while being supported up right by the hoist

Olds64

You can put the engine on a tire, but it would be a PITA to change freeze plugs and gaskets with the engine on a tire. It is good to invest in an engine stand. They are about $50 at a local parts store.

MDchanic

Yeah, I forgot to mention to support the front of the transmission.

And I agree that a tilt device is very helpful.

As far as using the transmission, I'd drain the fluid and change the filter, but if it was good before, it should still be good (that's always a big IF ).

The engine won't mind sitting on the bottom of the oil pan on a piece of wood, with a larger piece of lumber under the balance, but you may dent the oil pan (if it isn't dented already) and you really can't work on it well that way.
An engine stand is definitely a sanity-saving (and back-saving) investment.

- Eric

rocket350

ok awesome, yea ill look into getting an engine stand and tilt adaptor

thanks for the responses and help,

Sugar Bear

This has nothing to do with how to remove the engine; but, may I suggest doing a compression test before removing the engine? This way if there is a problem you can address it while the engine is out of the car.

captjim

Some good info here. My .02; loosen the trans mount nut, I have seen them break. Good time to upgrade the converter if it is in the budget. Use quality (NAPA, Delco, etc) engine mounts.
Also, not to confure, you, but this is a good time to add a remote solenoid on the firewall. I do this on all my old cars. Heeping the wires away from exhaust and having 12 volts to the starter only when cranking reduces fire risk and having the fusible links so accessible is nice when troubleshooting electrical problems.

coppercutlass

I just got mine ready to pull mine out tonight so any questions ask away. i like to pull the engine out first then trans. Much easier imo.

kitfoxdave

I pulled the engine and transmission at the same time... made it easy! Got the new tranny bolted up and the converter where you can see everything easily, and torque all the bolts. I set my engine down on a moving dolly from northern tool... $20 easy to move it around, (a bit top heavy though so be careful!) I cut all my hoses with garden clippers. they all needed to be replaced anyway.

rocket350

before u pull it out can u take pictures of where you attached the engine hoist to the block, like i want to know how much i have to take off to attach the hoist and where to attach.

rocket350

ok little confused lol, may just be lack of sleep, but what does a remote solenoid do?
And what do u mean by heeping wires awsy from exhaust and haviing 12 volts to the starter only when cranking?

MDchanic

There are a number of good places, depending on your equipment and mood.

The factory used a hanger with two hooks, one through the lifting loop attached by the intake bolts on the left front and one through the hole in the block in the right rear, next to the distributor.

Most common bolt locations include using two diagonally opposed intake manifold bolts, using two diagonally opposed front / back of head accessory bolts, and using an angle-adjusting device that bolts on where the carb. goes.

These questions may open a can of worms and derail the thread.

Some people believe that the starter solenoid is exposed to too much heat in its factory location, which causes it not to work well when the engine is hot.

This is in spite of the fact that many millions of these cars were made (not to mention other companies' and divisions' cars with their solenoids in the same place), and started just fine when hot for many years.

They install a F_rd starter solenoid on the firewall, and reroute the wiring that had gone to the starter to that solenoid, leaving just a single large starter wire to go down to the starter, like a F_rd has, except with a jumper from it to the S terminal of the starter solenoid, like a F_rd does not have, as the GM solenoid is still needed to make the starter work.

If your starter, solenoid, and wires are in good condition, this modification is not necessary.

Let the flame wars begin.

- Eric

captjim

No flame war, just my opinion that having the wires accessible makes life easier. Also, I usually have headers where the chance of the big red wire rubbing on a hot runner is greater. No big deal either way, it is just a good time to do it. The OP asked,
"also im looking for input on anything i should improve or replace in the engine bay"
IMO, re-routing the wires is easy to do, inexpensive, makes the car safer and makes troubleshooting easier. Just my personal opinion.

MDchanic

No argument here. I have little things I like to change to "my way" when I take things apart, too.
There's a school of thought out there that people will have horrible problems if this isn't done, and I just wanted to immunize the OP a bit before he was exposed to it.

It is certainly reasonable to make an educated decision to change something around because it's your preference, it that's the way you want to go, for no other reason than you like it that way.

- Eric

ddd777

This image shows where my mechanic attached to the block to hoist:

ls98

Be prepared for broken exhaust bolts.
There are dowels at back of eng that line up the transmission some times they are seized in the trans making separation of eng/trans difficult.
If you have a/c, with the studs on the head bolts ,you may want to heat the nut when removing or else the head bolt may turn with the stud nut.
If using the bolt holes on the end of the heads to lift eng use the lower holes,if using top top holes you may break the corners off of the head.

rocket350

ok yea that makes a little more sense now, but it will probably become more clear once i get into the engine and see the location and wires your talking about

rocket350

also i started a thread on major builds and projects where i will be posting pictures of every step i take

kitfoxdave

here is how I did mine,

used the chain, 3 intake manifold bolts replaced with grade 9 bolts from fastenal. after I removed it I set it on the little moving cart from northern tool. I recieved my engine from CutlassEFI with the lifting plate bolted to the top. After installing the fresh engine, I bolted it to the core engine so we can put it into his truck.

lemoldsnut

Olds motors come with two lifting hooks factory. One is cast into the block and is just to the right of the distributor. It is a hold right by the top passenger side bellhousing bolt hole. If you use a good hook on your chain it fits well and then a hook at the loop on the drivers side front of the intake manifold it is a nice level lift.
Hope that helps
Larry

rocket350

[QUOTE=lemoldsnut;526704]Olds motors come with two lifting hooks factory. One is cast into the block and is just to the right of the distributor. It is a hold right by the top passenger side bellhousing bolt hole. If you use a good hook on your chain it fits well and then a hook at the loop on the drivers side front of the intake manifold it is a nice level lift.
Hope that helps
Larry[/Q

do they look like actual hooks, or is something attached to them, that comes off?

rocket350

yea i gotta get my engine prepped down to the ways your looks before i can really see what you did, but yea that looks good

MDchanic

The front left one is a large metal loop that looks like it could hold the coil.

The rear right one is a hole through the block, next to the distributor, going through from left to right.

- Eric

lemoldsnut

Give me your direct email and I will send you a few pictures. I can't seem to load pictures on this site for some reason I am sure is me.

Larry

MDchanic

Yeah, I've got some good pictures too, but I'm at work, so I cat't post them till tonight.

- Eric

kitfoxdave

here are a couple of pictures... never new the hole was at the back!

There is not a lot of room in there between the firewall and rear of engine for a hook!

MDchanic

Here are those factory lift points:







True, but the factory didn't care, since they put the body on after the engone was in.

- Eric

rocket350

well, the engine is ready to put almost, have to take off front end because egnine hoist only reaches to front of engine block.

gonna take off fenders and radiator support in one piece. was told their should only be 8 bolts, so we'll see

also had no broken exhaust bolts, so thats a good sign

coppercutlass

You can also just take your front bumper off . I would not take the whole front end off. Is your boom fully extended out ? . I usually have to put the boom of center to the front bumper or you can also lift it from the side. Aslong as it's centered on the chains the boom will do it's work. Usually having it off to the side from the front of the bumper works. So if you bring it dead center and move it a foot to the side where the front bumper starts to dip in. You gain some space.