Well its a done deal, im just going to build the 350. I wanted to put a 455 in the car but with time and money the 350 is more of a realistic way to go. The car recently took a poop on me and im still digging into the block but it looks like its going to be a spun bearing or something along those lines, deff bottom end

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The blocks a 395558 2 that has not been touched as far as boreing or honing that i know of.. The heads have a big 6 on them, the numbers on the bottom side of the valves 859. Would you have these as well as the block cleaned before rebuilding? like hot tanked or something?

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My questions about the rebuild, I dont plan on doing this myself but would like to be in full control of whats going into my engine. That being said id like to gather the parts myself then take everything in for the build, any recomendations on a FULL rebuild kit that could be ordered online?

Im pretty much looking to replace ALL internals bottom and top minus the crank. any suggestions or what the hell are you thinkings will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again!!

 

The machine work will dictate what parts are necessary. If you spun a bearing they will have work the crank and tell you what size the mains and rod bearings need to be. If your cylinders are requiring an over bore, that will effect piston size.

I would take to the machine shop and explain to them what your after and go with their recommendations.

 

after further review.. the rod bearing went out of cyl#2. See the clean spot on top of the piston? The piston hit the head and knocked off all the carbon when the bearing went out. Pull it out, it needs major work.

 

BAM! Thats what i was looking for!

Thanks man, good eye!

 

Those look like the small dish (high compression) pistons. It would be REALLY nice if a hone would clean up the bores, however it is unlikely. Unfortunately, decent cast pistons are not available as replacements.

 

if your really going to rebuild it i would deff. use speedpro forged flattops that are completely flat and smooth on top. so far i've used them in three 350s and they are great. there not too high either around $360 for a set, after all this is an olds not a 350 chevy lol.

 

1. Are you sure you don't mean cylinder #3?
   
2. Are you sure that your 350 rebuild will be any cheaper than a 455 rebuild?
   You're talking about a lot of machine work for that 350, and I'd bet it's not going to be any different for your 455.

- Eric

 

My Bad.. it's #3.

 

the only reason i say that is because i would get a new tranny if i do the 455

 

And maybe a new 12 Bolt rear. And yeah you'd want posi back there. Oh and don't forget that you'll want to upgrade to disc brakes to stop all that extra grunt.

I actually went through the same decision recently. I am going to do a 350 as well - in fact, I've already started. Only I am planning on doing as much as I can myself, as a learning experience.

I would prefer to do a 455, but there seem to be so few of them around here anymore. I haven't found a core for less than 1K in my area and none of them are pre-75. Olds 350's seem to be all over the place here. So I figured my first engine build will be a 68 350. If all goes well, I can do a 455 next time (next time.... ).

Besides, by the time I finish the 350, maybe I'll have found a 455 core that is a little more stout for a semi-reasonable price.

 

i agree, i wanted so badly to do a 455 but its just not realistic right now. i just hope this block dosent end up costing me one million dollars to get back to 100% the waiting really dose HURT!

are you boring or anything like that on you 350 build? how far along are you?

 

Really ? Wow maybe I should sell my 455 instead of putting it in my 72 I'm sure the price for one here is different then where you are though , that's probably why . I have a 68 455 form a Toro , and had some guy offer me like $350 for it - Bwa Ha Ha Ha !!!! There was no way I was going to sell it let alone for that price . I mean it would have to be rebuilt eventually ( gaskets shot ) , but it ran Perfect ! The guy I bought it from said it was the 400 hp one or at least that's what they called it back then . He also said it had 60,000 on a rebuild , but it burned oil , so either that is wrong , or it sat forever .... and then sat some more by me

 

I had a heck of a time finding my 455 block.. thats why im so upset im going to end up rebuilding my 350! But its okay ill get em next time!

 

Nothing wrong with a 350, just use proper planning with proper parts.

 

Well, I am looking to do a "reasonably" stock rebuild. My cars a 71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with a 71 350 (somewhere in the 8:1 comp. ratio from what I understand), so a 68 350 with 10.25:1 (or so) should already be an improvement.

I have it blown apart completely right now and the block is getting ready to go to the shop and get hot-tanked and fluxed. As long as everything checks out, I'd like to do only a few modifications before putting it back together. Of course, any machining necessary will get done. It is standard bore, so I assume it'll need .30 over, align honing and the like. Hoping it doesn't need to be decked as that could make things complicated.

So, the bottom line is, I'd like to reuse the crank and connecting rods. I am not sure on the heads yet as the original ones were redone recently, but still have the smaller diameter valves. Maybe I'll just jump up to some Ebrock heads. Overall, this is a build for learning more than one for creating lots of power...

-Mark

 

You shouold have the block pressure tested, not fluxed, to check for cracks. Flux does no good if there is a crack inside and not visible from the outside.

 

same here man.. but you can easily drive yourself nuts with all these what ifs! its all worth it cause i know if i take my time and do my homework, and ofcorse pay people that know what there doing it will get done and put a smile on my face

 

if you check on summit racing you can usually get a complete kit with the s/p forged pistons for under $600...

 

But to balance bore and check everyrthing will run you another 800.

 

71-72 cars have a corporate 10 bolt with bolt in axles. They are good down into the 11's stock and 10's with upgraded axles. Don't think that because your car came with a 350 it needs a complete overhaul to handle more power/torque.

I would suggest an upgrade to a TH400, but the '71-'72 rear end is just fine. Magazines and Powerblock have brainwashed people into thinking they need a 9" rear end...and that is so far from the truth.

 

Just a suggestion ,you could put a 403 in there ,pop on your 350 heads with the smaller chambers and have power to boot !

 

That's an interesting idea. I didn't realize you could put 350 heads on a 403 that easily...

But are the 403 blocks harder to come by than 455s?

 

Any Olds V8 head can be bolted onto any Olds V8. Maybe some exceptions 260-307. That does not make it a good idea. Is this instance, it is. The older 350 head (smaller chamber) will raise compression significantly and they flow better.

 

The heads have to have the bolt holes reamed out to the 403 size ,1/2 " i believe but the small chamber 350 heads really wakes up the 403 ! Not sure about finding a 403 where you live but up here in Canada ( eh ? ) on Kijiji there a least a half a dozen of them available .