Hey guys, I'm swapping out my 2bbl carb/manifold for an original 4bbl and new edelbrock electric choke carb on my 330ci. I would love to see a photo of any 1966/1967 f-85 or cutlass with the original intake + a carb hooked up so I have a visual reference of what the finished product should look like. I searched the site but came up empty, my guess there's too much.

 

I have a picture of 1 side.

 

That is not an edelbrock carb!

The problem with using a stock 4 barrel manifold and an edelbrock carb is you will need a spreadbore to squarebore adapter. You also will need to run a power wire for your choke, as the divorced choke will not work with your new carb. The linkage will hook right up if you get a rubber grommet for the linkage rod at the carb, then adjust everything to length. Before starting the engine, ensure that the throttle opens all the way when you push the gas pedal to the floor.

I would also do this prior to cranking the car, ensure your switch pitch and kickdown switch assy is working properly.

 

I already got all the pieces, adapter fuel filter kit, new intake bolts. Should i get new hoses? Jag thanks for the photo. Do you have any of the full bay focusing on the Carb/manifold?

 

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was in another guys thread here.... its going to look different with the edelbrock carb & intake though...

 

That's perfect rambow! Thanks. As soon as i bolt it all up ill take a pic and get it up here.

 

Sorry but no. Not to change the subject but if you got a 65 manifold that Edelbrock bolts right on without an adapter.
I misread you first listing about the old manifold with the Edelbrock already on it.

 

Has anyone had any hood clearance issues using the stock intake manifold with the 3711/2711 Edelbrock Performer Carb along with the adapter kit? Gotta get the car out of storage after we have rain this weekend and would hate to discover I need to punch a hole in the hood. Hell, could be a good time to go to a shaker. haha a 330 with a shaker... that'd be something.

 

I used an after market drop down 14 x 3 open airfilter housing with no issues what so ever on my 330. I did not try it with a stock air cleaner, but I don't believe that will be an issue either.

 

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maybe this will help??

EDIT: sorry, i just noticed you want pics of an original intake.

 

Thanks 65cutlass. That linkage setup as well as the side of the Carb looks much different than I thought, but that'll help a lot. Did you have to setup the Carb linkage or was it pretty much stock setup that way? Ill take a photo of my Carb so everyone can see.

 

You can use the stock rod, just make sure you get WOT.

 

Uhhhh... what's WOT?

 

thats tech talk for WIDE OPEN THROTTLE

 

Make sure the primaries are opening up all the way with the gas pedal depressed to the floor.

 

Ok, took some photos of the stock 2bbl carb and the new edelbrock 1406 attached to the original 4bbl intake. If you guys wouldn't mind taking a look at the linkage setups and give me your ideas I'll send a beer to each of you.

The first photo is the stock 2bbl carb. the setup looks a little different than anything on the Edelbrock, I think I can figure out connection thanks to you guys with photos.


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The second is the Edelbrock stock from a guy who ran it on his pontiac 326. He says he set it up according to the instructions and ran it three times.

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My question, Does everything linkage-wise look correct?

 

I got the connection. Rod gets placed into the bottom mounting hole on the edelbrock, might have to shorten the rod and re-bend it for the throttle to fully open and close. Just need to exchange wire and get more electrical components then I can wire up the electric choke. Hope everything goes smoothly...

 

There is an adjustment barrel at the other side of the linkage by the firewall to lengthen or shorten the rod. There are many ways and a few threads on here to hook up the choke power wire.

 

I checked it out, I see what your sayin OldC. I read through Joe's tutorial on wiring electric chokes and I think I'm ready to roll. Did you wire similarly or a different way? As soon as I get steady 60 degree weather I'm doin it up. Appreciate the help from all.

 

I ran a hotlead from the fusebox that only supplies 12v when the key is in the run position. No power at start or accessory. Very simple and not complicated.

What intake gasket are you going to use? There are 2 stock types, one is a turkey tray, the other is a 4 piece. The turkey tray is used when there is no rectangular metal tray bolted in the lifter valley. The 4 piece is used when there is. I found the 4 piece to go much easier. I've never used an aftermarket fiber gasket on a 330, some of the others may have.

 

I might look into the simpler way, I'm not much of an electrician.

I have the 4 piece fel-pro metal backed gaskets, I'm going to run silicone instead of the rubber. My 330 is a W engine same for the intake manifold. No turkey tray needed.

 

Make sure you follow the instructions and use RTV around all the ports. I bought an extra tube, as the supplied little one is usually old and will not cover all the necessary areas. That manifold is a heavy bugger, it's a lot easier to install with an extra set of hands.

 

I measured the stock 2bbl intake to air cleaner on the car now and came up that I may need to get a drop down air cleaner or cut the bracing on the hood to hey about 1/2" clearance. Olds, which drop down cleaner did you get?

Another option is to bust a hole through the hood and put a fenced off hood scope on top, like a mustang.

 

Even with a 1" spacer I had plenty of clearance for the hood to close.

The air cleaner can be problematic with the electric choke. So you need to go to an auto parts store and see if it fits before you buy it. Some interfere. I had a few bottoms and tops laying around and found the one that fit best. If your going to order one ensure that it's for an Edelbrock.

The stock 2 barrel air cleaner will not work, hole diameter is smaller. The stock 4 barrel air clceaner may not work either, again because of the electric choke.
I used the rubber seals on both ends, never had a problem. Just don't over torque the bolts!

The linkage needs to connect to the top of the throttle on the carb. I used the big hole with an actual carb rubber grommet set, and a cotter pin, you can reuse the one on the 2 barrel. If you don't have that pull that threaded stud out and use that hole. Hooking it up to the bottom will not work if your linkage is the same as mine.

 

hi guys, long time. traded the olds for a ford...

NOT hahaha

I got my 67 cutlass running and out of storage and am going to start working on the engine this weekend. my new to me 4bbl intake manifold looks a little different in the thermo housing department. the intake has one large opening and the 2bbl thats in there now looks like it may have one larger opening and one smaller, as does the gasket I bought. know what i mean? I wanna know more so can i take the two barrel thermo housing that connects engine to radiator hose and put it on the 4bbl.

Here's a photo of my stock 330ci 2bbl, you can see the thermo housing that i have now. this is the one that looks like it may have two openings. underneath.
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here is the 4bbl intake's thermo spot with the gasket I picked up. See how the 4bbl has a large opening with a smaller opening all connectd and the gasket shows the large opening and smaller opening not connected.
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Guys, do you really gain much more power going through all that work to switch over to 4b setup? I was always under the impression that the difference in the power ratings was largely due to the difference in the pistons-compression on the 330's??

 

Let's just say that when you pop the hood and a car guy looks under there and see's that tiny little squirt gun of a carb... mumbles something about grandma, and walks away.

It really is not a hard swap, you'll gain a bit of power, lose a little fuel economy, but you'll feel better at a show.

 

It just feels right to have more than less. I meant in my recent posts the water neck not thermostat housing.

 

The waterneck should work and the thermostat will cover that opening and the gasket will cover that.

 

Thanks for the help. I'm Yunnan swap that out and change springs and shocks up front. Man it feels good to have it rolling again. Can I use prestone 50/50 mix in the stock radiator?

 

The 50/50 mix will be fine. I'd wait on the springs, the stance is fine! Shocks are usually a perk. When you pull you intake, if there is a bunch of crud in there, clean it out carefully.

 

I like the stance, but I feel every vibrate and jousle around like a jar of coins. The springs are far gone, still the stocks from 67! Ill try just the shocks to start. Ill take some photos when I'm done.

 

All the springs do is support the car, it's the shocks and tires that smooth it all out. Has any of the front end, like ball joints, control arm bushings, steering linkage, wheel bearings, etc..., been checked? That may be where your rough ride is coming from.

 

I know all about that, my silverado with torsion bars gave me a similar problem. I do need to go over all that stuff though

 

i must be missing something. I'm trying to get a hold of edelbrock cause the 1406 carb, the linkage pushes forward where the stock 2bbl pulls backward. is there a kit to connect the rod to the top big hole on the 1406? FTW, all day, frozen nuts, hoses wont come off blah blah blah. im about 2 parts away from removing the manifold, and i cant get the switch attached to the front of the 4bbl manifold off.

Alright, back to work. feel free to throw any encouragement and advice out here.

 

Go to the auto parts store and get the rubber grommet and plastic sleeve that goes into the upper big hole on the Edelbrock. Or you can remove the parts off the 2V carb currently on your car. Yeah the bolts and sending units (these actually require a special socket, although I've been successful with a channel locks) are a bitch to get out after 45 years.

You don't really need to re-use the dashpot at the end of your throttle linkage.

 

Well after 2 days of working non stop on the manifold I ran out of time. After replacing fuel lines, vacuum hoses, draining **** it just would not budge so I had to button it all back up, but it'll be attacked again soon. I'm going to start stripping the bay and cleaning and spray it black.