72 cutlass dieseling

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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 05:37 AM
  #1  
mkg230's Avatar
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72 cutlass dieseling

Hello to all, I'm new here as well as to classic cars. I have a 72 cutlass 350/350, eldbrock carb, and hei. Yesterday, I completed a tune up on the engine. Now when ever I turn off the key the engine will keep running for a good 5 min.
My question is this: are the firing order different for hei? I have the #1 plug wire pointing to the driverside #1 cylinder. With the following firing order 18436572 going conter-clockwise around the distributor.
Any ideas? I really don't want to set the timing since i have never done it before and it has the hei distributor.

Thanks for your time and information!!!!!!!
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 05:59 AM
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I really don't want to set the timing since i have never done it before
Yesterday, I completed a tune up on the engine.
If you didn't set the timing then you didn't complete the tune-up. I suggest you get a timing light and see where your timing is at. If your car is dieseling that badly then your timing is probably too advanced.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 06:20 AM
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Alright so did the 72 cutlass come with hei? If not how do I tell where the timing should be. I've searched the internet and I've found that a 72 cutlass should be at 12btdc and the idle speed 600 rpm.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mkg230
Alright so did the 72 cutlass come with hei? If not how do I tell where the timing should be. I've searched the internet and I've found that a 72 cutlass should be at 12btdc and the idle speed 600 rpm.
Not from the factory. The fact that you have HEI is irrelevant - the timing is set the same. Note that you MAY need to play with the mechanical advance curve inside the HEI, since the factory HEIs come off of smog motors. This will not affect your dieseling problem, however.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:19 AM
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Dieseling is also often caused by carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and high engine temps. Is your engine running at 195*F or lower? If so, good.
I assume idle speed is set right?
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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Thanks for all your help. The issue has been resolved!!!
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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To high idle RPMs can also cause this with the timming
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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The issue has been resolved!!!
What did you do to fix the problem?
Old Jan 15, 2010 | 02:48 PM
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I spoke too soon. At first the timing was off about 3 degrees. She turned off and started just fine for the first day. Now the problem has returned I'm kind of thinking that some how the ingition is still sending power to the coil some how. Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for the ignition?
Thanks
Old Jan 15, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by mkg230
I'm kind of thinking that some how the ingition is still sending power to the coil some how. Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for the ignition?
Thanks
If the car runs smooth and normal when you shut the ignition off, then power to the coil is not being removed.

If the engine runs very rough, knocks, kicks, bucks, and makes icky noises when the key is turned off, then it is dieseling.
Dieseling is usually caused by glowing red-hot carbon on the piston tops or on the cyl head igniting fuel-air mixture still coming in through the carb. The spark plugs will not be igniting the fuel then - only the compression and glowing carbon, hence the term dieseling.

Try switching to high octane gas. If it stops or reduces the dieseling, then that is surely the problem.

Make sure idle speed is at 600-700 and idle mixture is properly set.

Has the car run rich before or burned oil? That would cause fast carbon buildup.
To get rid of it will not be easy. I am not sure if the cleaners at the auto parts stored will help, but mayby Berryman B12 is worth a shot.
Old Jan 15, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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Did you check your spark plug gap, .035 is stock. HEI is generaly larger.045
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