I have 307 olds that idling rough and stall at the red lights. It idles fine when I partially close the chock but when I let the chock go it opens fully and start idling rough and stalls. I haven't tried anything yet but I'm thinking it's a problem with the chock

 

If the choke if fully open when it warmed and closed when its cold then its operating properly. I'd check for vacuum leaks to start with.

 

I just went through this same thing with my '78 Toronado with a 403. I rebuilt the carburetor, but along the way, I replaced all vacuum hoses and put on a new EGR valve. A bad EGR valve can cause stalling at idle speeds.

My car now runs ok. To check choke operation, with a cold engine, remove the air cleaner and press the gas pedal to the floor to see that the choke plate closes. Assuming it does, start the car. The choke plate should almost immediately back off slightly (open slightly more) if the choke pull-off is working properly. As the engine warms, the choke plate should become fully vertical. This assumes the choke stove is properly connected and functioning properly so that engine heat is getting to the metal coil in the choke housing. If it does all of this, the choke is OK, and I would look for other possible sources.

Oldcutlass mentions vacuum leaks, and that can certainly be a cause. So can a stuck carburetor float or other problem in the carb that might cause flooding.

 

Well its not the chock then because it fully open when warm. Ill check the vacuum lines whenever I make home if it keeps starting. It just started this morning on my way to work so I haven't had a chance to check anything besides the chock

 

Also if it started after recently getting gas it be water in the fuel.

 

Let's start with basics.

What year 307? Is the factory CCC system still in place or have you changed anything? Are there any coded in the computer?

 

That's no fun!

 

Home now and found I had no antifreeze no oil or trans fluid. I think I been sabotaged lol.

 

Problem solved. My daddy said my timing chain skipped a tooth.

 

That would not cause the loss of fluids...

 

If partially closing the choke (not "chock" lol) improves the idle then you have developed a lean condition at idle. A vacuum leak is a definatle a possibility. You could also have a partially clogged idle circuit.

 

I really don't know I'm going on advice on what it could be. After I fill up the oil and antifreeze the carb started shooting fire out. If yal have any advice to offer I will gladly take before I tackle a timing chain and spocket. I thought it was bad gas at first because it was stall if unless I held the brake and gas. Then I got home and found no oil no trans fluid or antifreeze. I'm stuck and this is my daily driver. I'm really in need of help right bowl because this is my trans back and forward to work.

 

I don't doubt there is a timing chain issue, but your neglecting normal maintenance will lead to failure also.

 

The no oil and water started yesterday while trying to limp home. The water is shot and the oil pressure switch was spitting oil everywhere. I keep it well maintenance. But on the other hand someone told me can set the distributor back one gear tooth and drive to my daddy shop to change the chain. Have anyone ever heard of there.

 

Someone told you wrong. When a timing chain jumps a tooth it changes the mechanical valve timing with relation to the pistons. Moving the distributor changes the ignition timing as to when the spark plugs fire.

 

Thanks for the info I don't wasn't tear anything up. Guess I'm stuck doing it in my driveway.

 

Does your car insurance provide towing coverage?

 

No roadside assistance

 

What the difference between single roller vs a double roller timing chain. Autozone say its best if i get the double but I'm only have a stock engine and don't think a double roller would make any difference in a stock 307 beside the cost of the kit