When installing an Edelbrock Performer intake..
#1
When installing an Edelbrock Performer intake..
When installing a performer intake, does it matter what vacuum ports are used for what? For example, there is a line from the modulator on the transmission going to a vacuum port next to the thermostat housing(currently), and there is a vacuum line coming from the power brakes going to the back of the intake. The instructions don't say if there is a difference between the ports.
Just curious. Swapping intakes this weekend, got the old one unbolted, everything disconnected and ready to remove and started thinking about it.
Any other tips or suggestions? Going to buy new bolts in the morning.
Just curious. Swapping intakes this weekend, got the old one unbolted, everything disconnected and ready to remove and started thinking about it.
Any other tips or suggestions? Going to buy new bolts in the morning.
#2
When installing a performer intake, does it matter what vacuum ports are used for what? For example, there is a line from the modulator on the transmission going to a vacuum port next to the thermostat housing(currently), and there is a vacuum line coming from the power brakes going to the back of the intake. The instructions don't say if there is a difference between the ports.
Just curious. Swapping intakes this weekend, got the old one unbolted, everything disconnected and ready to remove and started thinking about it.
Any other tips or suggestions? Going to buy new bolts in the morning.
Just curious. Swapping intakes this weekend, got the old one unbolted, everything disconnected and ready to remove and started thinking about it.
Any other tips or suggestions? Going to buy new bolts in the morning.
#3
#4
Thanks guys!
Should I use a thread locker on the intake bolts? I know I have to retorque them after I do a heat cycle on the motor, but won't the thread locker dry by then and then crack apart inside and not lock the bolts?
Should I use a thread locker on the intake bolts? I know I have to retorque them after I do a heat cycle on the motor, but won't the thread locker dry by then and then crack apart inside and not lock the bolts?
#7
Well my rear end seal blew out. Noticed a puddle of oil next to the distributor today and I reached down, and there was a nice little piece of gasket sitting there on the back of the engine.
I drove the car the day after I put the manifold on, probably put 100 miles on it no problems, and it decided to blow out today, when I was in the yard checking/adjusting the timing. WTF!?
Some say to see RTV on the end seals, some say to use the gaskets. I don't know anymore. Maybe I'll try the ones without the valley pan. They're cheaper, but might be easier.
I drove the car the day after I put the manifold on, probably put 100 miles on it no problems, and it decided to blow out today, when I was in the yard checking/adjusting the timing. WTF!?
Some say to see RTV on the end seals, some say to use the gaskets. I don't know anymore. Maybe I'll try the ones without the valley pan. They're cheaper, but might be easier.
Last edited by jpc647; June 20th, 2013 at 04:55 PM.
#10
It's coming out of the base. I removed the distributor today, put a new gasket in it. Still leaks. I removed it again, I put a bead of RTV silicone around the top where it meets to the engine, and it still leaks..
I don't get it. I'm baffled. I even thread taped the hold down bolt, for extra insurance
Does the gasket go where it is, or where the arrows are pointing? I put a bead of silicone where the arrows are, and it certainly slowed the leak down, only a small puddle came out now, but it allowed me to track it down.... Back to the drawing board.
20130622_145758_zps3e6b080e.jpg
Last edited by jpc647; June 22nd, 2013 at 01:23 PM.
#11
#12
The O-ring goes in the groove, where it is. It does look a little flattened. Is it new? Might be worth a replacement anyway. O-rings have different cross sections and if this one is too small it won't seal properly.
#14
See above. It looks like it's coming out of the dizzy.
I could see it leaking out of the rtv silicone. Only a small amount, but still leaking.
I then tried using both o rings. One on the slot where it belongs, and one on the mounting surface. Still leaking. I can't see any sort of an oil trail coming out of the back of the intake. I'll post a picture of the part of the gasket that broke away.
#15
Remove the RTV you stuck on the distributer as it will never seal, and you don't want it to seal with it because you need to have movement to adjust your timing.
Clean the base of the distributer, around the mating surface, and around the rear of the manifold. Blow some baby powder or baking soda around the area, start the engine, and look to see where the oil is weeping from. Repair the leak and rinse off the powder.
Clean the base of the distributer, around the mating surface, and around the rear of the manifold. Blow some baby powder or baking soda around the area, start the engine, and look to see where the oil is weeping from. Repair the leak and rinse off the powder.
#16
Personally I have never seen a distributor leak oil, however, I have seen many intake leaks in my time. You can do as Steve mentioned, or use a mirror to look for the oil leak. Lastly, the only oil the distributor gets is from a galley plug that has a small metered hole to oil the distributor gear.
Spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner in the area to totally clean everything, especially the intake to block rail area. Then run it and ck for leaks. Remember that oil will travel from its leak origin, generally back and down due to gravity and airflow.
There is no gasket on the Olds dist'r, just the O-ring which you have properly installed and is just not known to fail unless old and brittle or missing. There is really not much in the way of pressuized oil in the neighborhood of that o-ring and distributor seal.
The shoulder on the distributor must sit directly on the block, and then you must have a small amount of end play in the distributor shaft. If your oil pump drive rod is too long or something like that, it might prop up the distributor too high. I have never seen that happen though.
The clamp bolt passes into the flexplate cavity, so sealing that should have no effect.
Indications are strong that the leak is NOT at the distributor to block junction.
#17
Feel the back of the block just under the intake, from side to side. See it it feels wet...if it does, wipe it down really well until it's dry. Then run the engine again for a few min. and feel it again...
You won't "see" the oil if it's new very well, but when it pools you will.
You won't "see" the oil if it's new very well, but when it pools you will.
When I used both O-rinigs, one in the groove where it belongs, and one on the mating surface of the distrubutor/motor, the leak changed. It doesn't leak as much and it no longer fills the area where the distributor sits. Maybe it's not pushed down all the way, I'll give it a hell of a push down tonight and see.
Personally I have never seen a distributor leak oil, however, I have seen many intake leaks in my time. You can do as Steve mentioned, or use a mirror to look for the oil leak. Lastly, the only oil the distributor gets is from a galley plug that has a small metered hole to oil the distributor gear.
Remove the RTV you stuck on the distributer as it will never seal, and you don't want it to seal with it because you need to have movement to adjust your timing.
Clean the base of the distributer, around the mating surface, and around the rear of the manifold. Blow some baby powder or baking soda around the area, start the engine, and look to see where the oil is weeping from. Repair the leak and rinse off the powder.
Clean the base of the distributer, around the mating surface, and around the rear of the manifold. Blow some baby powder or baking soda around the area, start the engine, and look to see where the oil is weeping from. Repair the leak and rinse off the powder.
Agreed.
Spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner in the area to totally clean everything, especially the intake to block rail area. Then run it and ck for leaks. Remember that oil will travel from its leak origin, generally back and down due to gravity and airflow.
There is no gasket on the Olds dist'r, just the O-ring which you have properly installed and is just not known to fail unless old and brittle or missing. There is really not much in the way of pressuized oil in the neighborhood of that o-ring and distributor seal.
The shoulder on the distributor must sit directly on the block, and then you must have a small amount of end play in the distributor shaft. If your oil pump drive rod is too long or something like that, it might prop up the distributor too high. I have never seen that happen though.
The clamp bolt passes into the flexplate cavity, so sealing that should have no effect.
Indications are strong that the leak is NOT at the distributor to block junction.
Spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner in the area to totally clean everything, especially the intake to block rail area. Then run it and ck for leaks. Remember that oil will travel from its leak origin, generally back and down due to gravity and airflow.
There is no gasket on the Olds dist'r, just the O-ring which you have properly installed and is just not known to fail unless old and brittle or missing. There is really not much in the way of pressuized oil in the neighborhood of that o-ring and distributor seal.
The shoulder on the distributor must sit directly on the block, and then you must have a small amount of end play in the distributor shaft. If your oil pump drive rod is too long or something like that, it might prop up the distributor too high. I have never seen that happen though.
The clamp bolt passes into the flexplate cavity, so sealing that should have no effect.
Indications are strong that the leak is NOT at the distributor to block junction.
#18
Well the oil trail looks as if there is a hole in the distributor. The oil seems to come out of the dizzy, drip down to the base, and them move around the back of the intake.
My only thought is maybe it's "spraying" out of the back of the intake hitting the dizzy and dripping down..
Unfortunately I don't have a whole day to spend replacing the damn shitty gasket. I should have left well enough alone. The old RPM manifold didn't leak, I thought this one would be an improvement, and albeit the car does downshift more and is slightly more responsive, I don't think the improvement is worth two days or work. Thankfully I have a Harley I can ride to shows for the interim.
Really wishing I had pulled the trigger on that LS motor and did a project last winter... You never have time to do it the right way, but there is always time to do it again... // End rant. Thanks for the help guys.
My only thought is maybe it's "spraying" out of the back of the intake hitting the dizzy and dripping down..
Unfortunately I don't have a whole day to spend replacing the damn shitty gasket. I should have left well enough alone. The old RPM manifold didn't leak, I thought this one would be an improvement, and albeit the car does downshift more and is slightly more responsive, I don't think the improvement is worth two days or work. Thankfully I have a Harley I can ride to shows for the interim.
Really wishing I had pulled the trigger on that LS motor and did a project last winter... You never have time to do it the right way, but there is always time to do it again... // End rant. Thanks for the help guys.
#19
I used those rubber gaskets with no problems. You just have to make sure the pegs are in the holes and use RTV on the ends. I refuse to use the turkey tray gasket.
Orginal question: Yeah, vacuum is vacuum. The only difference is on the carb. There is ported vacuum which means when you floor it, no vacuum from that port
Orginal question: Yeah, vacuum is vacuum. The only difference is on the carb. There is ported vacuum which means when you floor it, no vacuum from that port
#20
#21
I used those rubber gaskets with no problems. You just have to make sure the pegs are in the holes and use RTV on the ends. I refuse to use the turkey tray gasket.
Orginal question: Yeah, vacuum is vacuum. The only difference is on the carb. There is ported vacuum which means when you floor it, no vacuum from that port
Orginal question: Yeah, vacuum is vacuum. The only difference is on the carb. There is ported vacuum which means when you floor it, no vacuum from that port
Honestly, it's going to be close to 90 all week, so the car is just going to sit in the garage for the time being. I'm only going to be more frustrated doing this again with the heat.
On the other hand, I could just remove the dizzy to make room, and put a bead of high temp rtv in the crack between the intake and the block, let it cure real good and hope the bandaid fixes the problem. That kinda sounds like a really good idea to me.
On a side note, does the valley pan really matter? The new gaskets I got don't have a valley pan, and the gaskets I took off didn't have the valley pan. Does it actually help the motor run cooler?
Last edited by jpc647; June 25th, 2013 at 06:48 AM.
#22
Just be sure get all of the old seal out and to clean the surfaces REALLY well, then put in just enough sealant, but don't make a mess.
Good luck!
- Eric
#23
Since you've got some downtime coming, that's what I'd do - cheap and easy, and won't hurt anything if it doesn't work.
Just be sure get all of the old seal out and to clean the surfaces REALLY well, then put in just enough sealant, but don't make a mess.
Good luck!
- Eric
Just be sure get all of the old seal out and to clean the surfaces REALLY well, then put in just enough sealant, but don't make a mess.
Good luck!
- Eric
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