Could this be as simple as a carb gasket replacement?

It causes a hesitation when pressing accelerator from a stopped position (ex: at red light).

 

Spray some carb cleaner around your throttle shaft and carb base, if it when the idle smooth's out and increases that's your vacuum leak. Not that this issue does not happen, just some shops tell it to all their consumers.

No a simple gasket change will not correct this.

Here's a good read:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...4MV_Carburetor

 

Great read! Thanks a lot man.

On a semi related topic (not really), what is easier: replacing the intake valve on a cylinder or replacing the rings?

Thanks.

 

The intake valve is easier, but the head must be removed. Changing rings is easier with the engine out of the car.

Why do you ask?

 

If you have the stock Q-Jet, yes you could have a vacuum leak around the primary shaft. If so, you may need to fix the leak with consists of removing the primary shaft and installing bushings.

 

I had a leak down and compression test done and the result were that my 3rd and 6th cylinders need new intake valves and rings. I wanted to see which one of the two would be more feasible for me to do because doing one of the two would greatly improve the function in those two cylinders.

 

Did they do a compression test dry and wet? What were the readings?

 

Just dry.

Readings:
6th cyl - 135 - 25% leak
3rd cyl - 135 - 33% leak

 

So I talked to a Carb guru in my area over the phone and he said before I bring it in to him (or rebuild it for that matter) to replace the base gasket. Thats exactly what I thought to do too!

Any hints on replacing carb gaskets? Sealing issues? etc...

Thanks

 

Did spray around the throttle shaft and the base of carb with the engine running to see if in fact you do have a vacuum leak?

To change the base gasket remove carb from manifold. You just need to disconnect enough vacuum lines, linkage, and the fuel line to lift the carb out of the way to remove the old gasket. If it sticks to the bottom of the carb, you may have to disconnect the remaining items to flip it over and scrape it off the base. Also scrape any gasket material sticking to the manifold. I stuff rags in the holes to prevent dirt and scrapings from entering the manifold.

Then place the gasket over the manifold, reinstall carb, and tighten bolts/ nuts from cross corner to cross corner and reinstall, lines and linkage.

 

No. Thanks man!

 

You gotta be careful when fixing only part of a worn engine. A valve job on an engine w/ bad rings could use more oil then before. It makes blow by real bad, it fills you air cleaner with oil.

 

So I am going to need to change my air filter more often? And pour in an etra quart of oil a year? Who cares.

 

Another factor to consider is if you do do a valve job and restore the compression you might find the engine bearings are too worn to handle the new load.

British Vauxhalls were notorious for this back in the '60s, I dare say other engines might have similar problems.
Sounds like your whole engine is worn, if you remove the pistons you will see how worn the rod bearings are, I suspect you will find plenty of wear.
If that's the case the least expensive long term fix will be giving the engine a complete overhaul.
For your extra trouble you will have more power for less gas and a cleaner engine bay with no unpleasant smoke from the exhaust.

The only trouble is you might find the rest of the drivetrain is worn as well.

Roger.

 

QUICK! Get a MAW (Might As Well) helmet to protect yourself!

 

35,000 original miles... Im not too worried about overhauling the entire engine at this point. Thanks though.

 

Are you planning on doing the heads yourself?

 

What have you found out so far?

 

Nothing. I might just sell the car. It runs just fine, starts every time, etc. But I wanted to eventually make it a track car. Its great for everyday use (only 35,700 original miles) but I am not sure I have the time to put into it.

It would be nice for someone who knows what to do with it to take it over.