Well I considered a roll anything except stopped (hence the term rolling). As soon as the car is moving it takes a lot more to spin the tires. Anything above like 15mph probably I wouldn't be able to do that. Normally for me, it's trying to go full throttle before the 1-2 shift but without losing all traction. Can't manually shift to first since I got the headers put on. Anyways it's a lighter car and the stock suspension seems to be pretty bad for launching.

 

How light is light my car is about 3600 with me in it. Stock suspension too. Just 50/50 shocks on the rear with an airbag in the right rear and 90/10's in the front with Moroso trick Springs.

 

Wow. Details on combo?

 

355 Olds in my 72 cutlass

10 to 1 compression speed pro flat tops
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/241 duration @ .050 lift
Prw roller rockers 1.6 ford units
Pro gear timing chain
#6 heads done by rocket racing just bowl work 2.07 in. 1.63 ex.
full length headers ,x pipe
34 degrees of timing on 93 octane
edelbrock performer rpm intake
holley 3310 750 cfm carb box stock
proform hei dist



crank is .010/.010, bore is .030 over bored with a tq. plate , it was balanced

Engine built by me

backed by a th350 Built by me and 3.90 gears out back

Best e/t to date was 12.63 @ 105.76 mph . oct. 2015 65 degress cool weather ., ran 12.77 @ 105 in june 2016 in 87 degrees and heavy humidity . made a few chnages . should see a 12.5 in the fall as my best e/t in the heat last year was a 12.90

 

The 425 is the same thing but a bigger bore/more displacement.

Not for me, I just look in the garage and there it is sitting right beside the 455.

11.4:1 overall gear ratio and a peg-leg rear will do wonders for making tire smoke.

 

Man, the 350 is 105 cubic inches too small.

 

Really? My 350 D based build displaces 470 CID. Bigger Han a 0.060" over 455.

 

350 to 455 isn't a one way trip! I have a good running 350 in mine now which will be getting swapped out for the 455 and TH400 sitting in my shop. Maybe I'll like it, maybe I won't...only one way to find out!


If I don't like it, that 350 will be sitting ready to go back in down the road.

 

That doesn't sound very stock to me. I have f41 sway bars, worn out ac delco front shocks and newer ac delco rear shocks and front braces from a grand Prix. The rest is stock with over 200k miles.

I'm sure the mods you have probably help traction big time. Yes i should get the suspension fixed up before I start engine upgrades. It's just that the engine upgrades seem much more appealing.

 

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...psmsygth4u.mp4

I'll get a better video once I have the proper carb back on it. Also preferably not in a small parking lot.

 

My set up is pretty basic while still using all the stock arms. Its all in how you split the hairs i guess. I have no sway bars. I have one im going to put in the rear but i took the front one off for a faster front end lift and what not.

 

Copper's car is an A body compared to your G body. My 70 S is like an exotic sports car compared to my awful non F41 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic. My traction in the 88 has always been awful even when it had a Lock Right locker in the rear.

 

On the street i have no traction. Well now that I got drag radials as full time rear tires. It actually bites but my weight transfer helps a lot. On the track I could actually soften up the launch as guys have told me that I get a heavy bite which can actually hurt the 60 ft. The other question is are you using a drag radials or street tires. Street tires on the strip suck. Even on my 14 sec car I had no hook at all. Good tires go a long way.

 

My 60 ft with street tires at the strip were around 2.8 seconds. I swear the 88 just absorbs power, what it does with it, is beyond me.

 

My end goal is to improve cornering more than launch traction. I like going to the track but I drove a lot and want good handling.

At the track I run mid 15s with Street tires. I've never had drag radials. The traction is usually better at the track than on the street. I get a lot of wheel hop though which I'm scared will break something.

 

Street tires at the track are a complete waste of time, IMHO. Tires make all the difference. I ran M/Ts in my G-body wagon, 28 psi, no burnout, just a quickie to brush off the sand (I live in FL), launched at idle with N2O, 1.77 60', solid lowers and adjustable uppers, -3 degree pinion angle.

 

Well I won't be able to afford drag radials for probably the next 5-10 years, but I still like to go to the track. I can afford the $20 to get in and some gas. It's a good way to blow off some steam even if you can't hook up real good or run 11s, it's just for fun.

 

I just bought nitto drag radials. 250 for both. That's pretty cheap. Most guys hate them but I have personally seen them work well and for my setup should be plenty of bite. On the street i have a hard time breaking them loose like I used to. Hopefully that bite translates to the track.

 

I run 26x10.5-15 MT ET Street DOT bias ply slicks at the track, usually around a 2.1 60 ft. Just showing how useless street tires are. Less than 10 psi is needed in slicks at our track for decent traction. I swap at the track, no way I would trust at them at highway speeds, DOT my ***.