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This is the last piece of the puzzle. I opened up the ports on the RPM intake . Crazy how much they shrink up in the last 3 inches of the port. . After this I'm gonna see how motivated I am and if I wanna put it on the run stand right away or not. So all in all I'm into this build for 3700 appx. I got a sheet somewhere with all the prices.
Thank you. No matter how many engines I have built there is still a high level of " fml I hope it don't blow up " lol. I'm gonna try to fire up maybe new years day since I have 3 days off.
Alright it's done and ready for the run stand. None of my drills where happy trying to prime the engine . I just wanted to pre lube to see what the PSI would be at. The cam has already been broken in so at this point it's just a matter of firing it up. I ended up using a speed wrench and managed 50 lbs of oil psi. 🤣🤣🤣 Did not think that was gonna work to be honest. Hopefully I can fire it up in a few weeks. Since this engine did see spun bearings. Despite cleaning it I plan on pre lubing it some more tossing that filter and just using another one. I'm using the disposable fram filters for that lol. Even tho I cleaned everything pretty damn good. I'm still paranoid lol. But cheap insurance maybe ???? Don't know if my thinking of pre lubing it a few times going through 2 filters to catch anything is even a logic idea but the filters are cheap enough. Once it's ready using a trusty wix filter.
It's up and running . I did a video for my YouTube page. No major issues. Puff of smoke on decel from what I think is cyl #1 but shouldn't be a major deal breaker besides that this engine is very solid. Got about 45 min of run time.
Don't think it's a ring seal issue because it would smoke alot more from the breathers. The smoke I'm seeing front the breathers is just the lack of a PCV. My best assumption from what I know is valve seal or guide. It's just a puff on decel RPM. At any rate I plan on dialing it in a hair better and then putting a vacuum gauge on it.
Were the guides done on those heads? Do you use stock valve seals? Maybe a seal moved up and stuck on the valve? I have seen that before. Also seen them crack and melt, doubt it is either of those. That is very little smoke, especially for a planned Racing motor. We look forward to see how you do with this motor at the track.
Not a valve seal issue. A me issue lol. The carb was super fat so the smoke was probably just raw fuel. I retuned the carb fixed the super jumpy idle timing put a vacuum gauge on it and amazingly at idle it's rock steady at 9 inches not bad for a solid lifter cam.
In the name in all that's honest here goes my latest hiccup.
So I ran the engine one last time. By this time I have about 2 hours of run time . Idle , high rev , high idle. Etc etc. I really beat on it last time on the run stand and noticed the oil psi pegging the gauge to 100 psi. I have been consistently checking the filters . So far 2 oil changes 4 filters. With the last 2 having the cleanest pleats with a little fine glitter at the bottom of the filter. Which im Used to seeing the super fine glitter atleast until after 500 to 1000 miles. So on that end all seems normal.
It seems the bypass on the pump is stuck and I was clued into this by another olds friend. I have never ran into this. So I'm gonna drop the pan and check the pump . The oil pressure is great once hot . 45 ish hot at 200 degrees and pegs 80 Psi hanging the RPMs . About 4k.
So I'm dropping the pan and gonna address this. For the sake of assuming all is well I'm gonna throw caution to the Wind assuming I don't have bearing issues.
The reality of building stuff like I do is I haven't done an engine that hasn't had to be taken apart to some degree after running lol..but that's life. Good experience to learn from.
Last edited by coppercutlass; Feb 27, 2022 at 05:42 PM.
So I dropped the pan. Inspected all the bearings and they are good !!. The pump seemed to have some obstruction in the by pass and it didn't seem to open all the way. I ordered and new oil pump just for cheap insurance and all should be good. I was actually amazed at how well all the bearings looked after a few hours of run time. The bearings still had the bore gauge marks.
So I dropped the pan. Inspected all the bearings and they are good !!. The pump seemed to have some obstruction in the by pass and it didn't seem to open all the way. I ordered and new oil pump just for cheap insurance and all should be good. I was actually amazed at how well all the bearings looked after a few hours of run time. The bearings still had the bore gauge marks.
No this oil pump cames from another failed engine. I cleaned it but I think there was a burr on the bore of the bypass and it would hit a certain point and stick appx half way. It moved free once I with it with a small ball home. The heads also where on a ride for an engine with spun rod bearings and the block came from an engine that spun 7 rod bearings . Maybe some of the crud that didn't wash out caused it or it was just insult to injury. At any rate. New pump on the way 125 bucks covers the 3700 I have into the pile.
This engine hasn't been in the car yet just run stand. I put the new oil pump on today sealed everything back up re torqued all the rod and main caps. Of course cleaned the pan and everything back up. I was able to make oil psi with my 3/8 air drill just a little under 60 psi. My gauge might be junk by now since it got pegged at 100 psi. I installed the pump box stock from melling. The last time I attempted to prime the oiling system with the old pump with my air drill it was a no go lol.but I was able to make psi with a speed wrench so I assumed all was well. So that's a good sign that I'm on the right path as far as oil pump change goes. I'm also gonna try a little thinner oil. It's my understanding my oil system mods won't affect oil pressure. Since what by pass sets the over all pressure . Good subject to read on and something no never had an issue with. So from here I'm gonna borrow a half inch drill like monster lol see what happens with a little more RPM and if it seems good. Then back on the run stand it goes.
Now as far as how this engine feels ???? Idk. It seems really responsive on the run stand . I think it may be just as good as what I have now or maybe a hair better. But honestly this was just supposed to be a back up. It just has to run somewhere in 12.0 range
Update. New pump installed everything is normal all is good lol. Learned wayyyy more than I ever needed on oil pumps and filters but that's good stuff lol.
Car gets 4.30's before new engine goes in. Gonna really see what this engine ( current on car ) can put down. Don't know what the difference on 60 will be between the 3.90 and 4.30 but I know it will be closer to what the engine really needs gear ratio wise.
Engine is done and just sitting until it's needed. Went out with the car yesterday. Brand New pavement and traction was just horrible. Trap RPM went up about 500 rpm. We did squeeze a slightly better 60 ft. And the MPH was consistent all day . I spun on all passes. The last pass i spun from 1 to 2 on the shift heading towards the wall pedaled it and still managed an 11.72 with a 1.57 60 @ 112 mph
this engine is in the car now. old engine went a best of 11.49 and new engine which is this thread went 11.58 @ 113 mph with a 1.62 60 ft. not too bad for first time out and surely has more in it with more dedicated time to tune.
