Just getting a feeler for anyone that had good experience with a shop in the N Texas area that can drill the pilot out properly on a SBO crank. Thank you

 

Any good machine shop should be able to handle that. With the right tools it one of the more simple things to do.

 

The only place I have called so far was Blaines Motor Supply,we have never had any problems with them but the answer I got was negative on being able to do that.

 

Never used Blains or any other production rebuilder like that. Try http://www.longracingengines.com/ in Irving and see what they say.

 

Thanks, I will call them once my crank is in hand. I still need to tear down both 350's and see which one I am using.

 

or you could buy my 4 speed crank from a 70 350

 

Where are you and how much ?

 

Surely theres someone in the DFW area thats competent to do this. I wouldnt think very expensive. I had mine done in Houston, Dennis Faerman Racing, hes very good,very reasonable on prices and a great guy. Several others here have used him as well.
His number is 713-686-7909

 

I imagine so but any experienced ones with positive feedback is preferred. Thanks for the heads up on the Houston one.

 

I would vote for Max Long also. Warehouse auto parts in Irving. He did excellent work on my 330. He has a complete machine shop and knows what he is doing.

 

Hope to take my block and crank to Max Long soon, I sold my 63 Lemans project and that will finance my machine work and clutch items for the Rallye. Already got big valves for the #6 heads and will get those ported.

 

call Kim Barr Racing Engines in Dallas

 

I am familar with Barr but does he have Olds experience with you drilling cranks out ?

Just looking for experienced Olds machinist

 

Talked to Long Racing today got some pricing estimates.

 

Wells racing in duncanville

 

I used Wells for some balancing and block work on a 455 Pontiac I did for a friend a few years ago. It was OK but recall they screwed up on the balance and had to redo it welding up holes they made in balancer tryingto get it right so it told me they may have had limited knowledge on Pontiacs not sure of Olds. (OEM Flexplate/Flywheel is slightly external balance on a Pontiac not completely Neutral balance but not the balancer which is Neutral)

 

Lucky for me, they do know Oldsmobile.. Of course though, Chevy is their money maker.

 

They are closer to me though

 

Way back in the old days (80's) I had a 425 crank drilled at ET Automotive in Garland. I don't know if Ernie is still in business.

 

I used to live in Garland and had some bad experiences in the late 80's they can keep it. I know waay to much crap on them fellas from the old days.

 

This is a rather old thread, do not know if this means much. However there is an alternative. There is a pilot bearing that will fit in the back of an auto crank. I cannot remember where I got it from without going through a ton a of receipts but is was from someone the engine builds here in the Club-thinking Bill Trevato? I put one in my 455 build on the 67 eight years ago. I was informed at the time, most input shafts on Munice 4-speeds will work without rubbing the crank,its that close. Mine cleared the back of the crankshaft with no issues in 7 years. There needs to be a little "air space" between the input shaft and the back of the crank. With a completed motor build (mine was) if that does not work for you my alternative was to take of a little of the input shaft on the transmission, than taking a part a built engine. That said, if that is not your cup of tea, I would take my crank to Kim Barr Racing in Garland with the bearing in hand, he will handle it. Robski-over and out

 

I am at the beginning of my engine build actually so that wont be an issue and I knew of the option you are talking about but I do not want to modify or shorten the input shaft tip. Already spoke to machinist at Longracingengines about it. Plan to get crank over there maybe next week.

 

Your good with the crank out, its an option for those that were in my position at the time.

 

Dropped of crank at Long Racing in Irving yesterday, well see how it goes

 

"There needs to be a little "air space" between the input shaft and the back of the crank. With a completed motor build (mine was) if that does not work for you my alternative was to take of a little of the input shaft on the transmission, than taking a part a built engine. "

The clearance can be drilled by hand with the engine in the car. You do not need a perfectly sized or centered hole to clear the M21 tip, when using the roller bearing that pilots in the AT converter larger diameter hole. You just need "a hole" to allow the shaft in. Easily accomplished with a drill motor and some bits up to oh 5/8 or whatever the required clearance hole is.

 

I also did print and bring them the machine drawing of the Olds crank pilot dimensions.

 

ET closed shop sometime in the past two years.

 

Yes Ernie went fishing, and his sister still smokes like a freight train....

 

Got my new PRW billet flywheel today ! Woo Hoo ($233 w free shipping from Autoplicity) multi patterned so I could upgrade to a 11" clutch

 

Also after only dropping off my crank middle of last week before holiday and being told 4-5 weeks. Max Long called and said it was ready today! Cleaned up at 10/10 as expected. Total cost $ 225 , $125 for the regular turn and $100 for pilot machining

 

I have not picked it up yet but I am doing the bronze bushing not the roller bearing