Timing set, new problem
#42
If the timing is close and carb is working properly, it will drive without stalling, just might not be ideal. I remember J&S machine having an issue running an early balancer and a late timing pointer. I believe it read a few degrees more than it actually was. He was testing the new chamber on the Edelbrock heads and didn't make sense a better chamber liked 40 degrees. Have you tried driving with and without the vacuum advanced hooked up? Spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb. Which intake and any adapters used? Unfortunately that Edelbrock carb may be the issue. I would have bought the Street Demon 625 or a Quickfuel 600 cfm for a 330 over the Edelbrock carb, just too many past issues.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; July 5th, 2016 at 06:08 AM.
#43
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Thread Starter
I'm not sure if the balancer is correct or not. It was just a theory
A lot of people, on here and IRL are also saying "carb" so I'm thinking of swapping the quardrajett from the 307 onto this motor.
The entire time I had the car with the 307 in it, this carb was not hooked up to the computer at all. Car ran great with this carb, ran consistent low 18's all day long in the 1/4 mile. Even turned a few high 17's after the ring and pinon swap. Plus the edlebrock carb is a manual choke. I never mentioned it because I didn't think it was an issue until my coworker told me it was and causes hard starts
A lot of people, on here and IRL are also saying "carb" so I'm thinking of swapping the quardrajett from the 307 onto this motor.
The entire time I had the car with the 307 in it, this carb was not hooked up to the computer at all. Car ran great with this carb, ran consistent low 18's all day long in the 1/4 mile. Even turned a few high 17's after the ring and pinon swap. Plus the edlebrock carb is a manual choke. I never mentioned it because I didn't think it was an issue until my coworker told me it was and causes hard starts
#47
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Thread Starter
#48
Have you tried closing the choke at all to see if it will stay running in gear? I didn't realize that it was a manual choke.
BTW I don't understand all of the Edelbrock carb bashing. I ran one for years on my 455 with 0 issues. Right out of the box. The car started the first time, every time. Never stumbled, never backfired on me....nothing like that.
BTW I don't understand all of the Edelbrock carb bashing. I ran one for years on my 455 with 0 issues. Right out of the box. The car started the first time, every time. Never stumbled, never backfired on me....nothing like that.
#49
OP, is it a 1405 or 1406? 1406 is electric choke. What is your idle RPM set at and have you adjusted the idle screws at all? If you're running too lean the lead put on the car when you put it in gear will kill it.
#50
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Thread Starter
Have you tried closing the choke at all to see if it will stay running in gear? I didn't realize that it was a manual choke.
BTW I don't understand all of the Edelbrock carb bashing. I ran one for years on my 455 with 0 issues. Right out of the box. The car started the first time, every time. Never stumbled, never backfired on me....nothing like that.
BTW I don't understand all of the Edelbrock carb bashing. I ran one for years on my 455 with 0 issues. Right out of the box. The car started the first time, every time. Never stumbled, never backfired on me....nothing like that.
I've been adjusting the crap out of the idle screw. When it races, I turn it down, when it stumbles, I turn it up. Still falls on its face.
Tomorrow after work, I'm going to look closely at the runners, look for any missing plugs, etc
#51
Without a choke you may need a richer mixture, try adjusting the idle mixture screws out. It may need smaller primary rods as well. If you let it warm up for a while, does it run better?
#52
It has a choke, it needs a cable installed to make it operate. Why would you adjust the idle mixture screws or change jets for a warm up function? The carb needs to be adjusted for the best idle after the engine is warmed.
#53
Because, I am betting it is lean. First off buy an automatic choke or maybe give the Qjet a try. You know the Qjet worked fine on your 307. My car starts and runs fine in nice weather without a choke plate. Cliff Ruggle builds a lot of Qjets without choke plate installed but leaves the coil and fast idle in place. Mine is the same and works well in decent weather.
#54
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Thread Starter
When it warms up, it idles rough and fast then it stalls. I tend to agree that sounds like a lean condition.
Today when I get home from work I'm going to work on it for a little bit.
I'm going to close the choke and check for what could lead to a vacuum leak (like a missing plug or something in the manifold) I'm going to disconnect and plug up the vacuum advance then start the car and see what happens.
How many turns and of which screw should I go? This is the last time I'm trying this. If it doesn't work out, I'm making time to throw the Qjett back on
Today when I get home from work I'm going to work on it for a little bit.
I'm going to close the choke and check for what could lead to a vacuum leak (like a missing plug or something in the manifold) I'm going to disconnect and plug up the vacuum advance then start the car and see what happens.
How many turns and of which screw should I go? This is the last time I'm trying this. If it doesn't work out, I'm making time to throw the Qjett back on
#57
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Thread Starter
Okay, runs pretty good, until warmed up again
Plugged all noticeable vacuum ports. No known leaks. Vacuum advance is off distrubtor and plugged.
Choke opens as soon as car it started. Manually close choke, car stalls instantly. Starts good after pumping gas pedal. (Typical starting for Oldsmobile in my experience)
Played with the mixture screws, car was starting to stumble, opened them up, still stumbled, still stalled. Restarts no problem, stalls less than 3 minutes later.
Put in gear, idle drops to 550, then to 500, then stalls out, but took longer to do this today. Took 30 seconds on Sunday to stall, today it took 1.5 minutes.
New timing light broke, it's a POS. Have to shop for a new one. Probably will pick up a Snap on off eBay
Car really reeks of gas, will restart right after a stall. Smells flooded, but I don't think it is.
Ideas?
Plugged all noticeable vacuum ports. No known leaks. Vacuum advance is off distrubtor and plugged.
Choke opens as soon as car it started. Manually close choke, car stalls instantly. Starts good after pumping gas pedal. (Typical starting for Oldsmobile in my experience)
Played with the mixture screws, car was starting to stumble, opened them up, still stumbled, still stalled. Restarts no problem, stalls less than 3 minutes later.
Put in gear, idle drops to 550, then to 500, then stalls out, but took longer to do this today. Took 30 seconds on Sunday to stall, today it took 1.5 minutes.
New timing light broke, it's a POS. Have to shop for a new one. Probably will pick up a Snap on off eBay
Car really reeks of gas, will restart right after a stall. Smells flooded, but I don't think it is.
Ideas?
#59
Registered User
Thread Starter
#65
Then it should not require an adapter. With your vacuum lines disconnected and the idle set at 650 in park, what is your initial timing? Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to see what it is and is the needle steady? What is your spark plug gap?
#66
#67
Interesting.....Edelbrock says it doesn't need the plate. I was unaware of that. I still couldn't bring myself to bolt one on without that plate with the flange being as thin as it is in spots.
#68
Edited, You beat me to it!
From the Edelbrock website:
Quote - OLDSMOBILE 307-403 V8
PERFORMER RPM OLDS 350 (1500-6500 RPM)
Designed for 330-350-403 c.i.d. Oldsmobiles and 1980-1/2 to 1985 307 c.i.d. engines with 5A heads (casting #3317). The Performer RPM Olds intake manifold is a high-rise, dual-plane design with 180° firing order engineered for maximum top-end horsepower while maintaining throttle response. Port flange has extra material above the runner for use with cast iron 455 heads and Edelbrock Performer RPM heads #60519. Has clearance for HEI distributor. Carb pad accepts square-bore carbs without adapters
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r-rpm-sb.shtml
From the Edelbrock website:
Quote - OLDSMOBILE 307-403 V8
PERFORMER RPM OLDS 350 (1500-6500 RPM)
Designed for 330-350-403 c.i.d. Oldsmobiles and 1980-1/2 to 1985 307 c.i.d. engines with 5A heads (casting #3317). The Performer RPM Olds intake manifold is a high-rise, dual-plane design with 180° firing order engineered for maximum top-end horsepower while maintaining throttle response. Port flange has extra material above the runner for use with cast iron 455 heads and Edelbrock Performer RPM heads #60519. Has clearance for HEI distributor. Carb pad accepts square-bore carbs without adapters
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r-rpm-sb.shtml
#70
Registered User
Thread Starter
Okay. Here's an update.
I took the edlebrock carb off, put the quadrajet back on. Bolted right on
Also installed an inline fuel Pressure gauge.
All 3/8 inch lines. Here's what I found.
I didn't see anything on the fuel pump to adjust the pressure, could be inside the fuel line, but I'm not sure. Fuel pump run when the key is turned on, and runs runs runs. What is the max pressure for the Quadrajett?
Electric choke is NOT hooked up. It just needs a 12 volt source switched of course. Could I splice it into on of the old emissions lines that's not being used anymore? Going to cut all the lines out anyway
I took the edlebrock carb off, put the quadrajet back on. Bolted right on
Also installed an inline fuel Pressure gauge.
All 3/8 inch lines. Here's what I found.
- Fuel pressure is between 9 and 10 psi, needle bounces radically between 9 and 10
- No provision for the tubes for the choke on the vacuum, so I converted it to electric choke. I did hook up the vacuum lines to the choke stuff. Didn't know if I should or not
I didn't see anything on the fuel pump to adjust the pressure, could be inside the fuel line, but I'm not sure. Fuel pump run when the key is turned on, and runs runs runs. What is the max pressure for the Quadrajett?
Electric choke is NOT hooked up. It just needs a 12 volt source switched of course. Could I splice it into on of the old emissions lines that's not being used anymore? Going to cut all the lines out anyway
#76
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, I read 6, but that makes perfect sense. That's also why I couldn't get the edlebrock carb to stay running either
Just ordered a 5 psi pump from summit. Should come Wednesday. Also should be cooler Wednesday, I was dying working on the car today and it was t that hot
Just ordered a 5 psi pump from summit. Should come Wednesday. Also should be cooler Wednesday, I was dying working on the car today and it was t that hot
#77
You also need to take the lid off the Edelbrock and set the float height/drop. They do NOT come factory pre-set, despite what the instructions say. That will cause flooding or fuel starvation. But fix the fuel pressure before you reinstall it. They run great when set up properly. Most people just never take the time to get them set up. No carbs work great out of the box, unless you are in the 1% that got super lucky!
#78
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did this, turns out the one float was WAY out of adjustment. It wasn't 7/16" like it should be, it was more than an inch on the primary side. Put everything back together, restarted car, ran great, then stalled out again.
Althought the float needed to be adjusted, my neighbor was watching my fuel pressure gauge. The fuel pump runs and runs and runs, until it overheats and stops running. Watched the fuel pressure drop from 6 to 3 then to zero, and then it ran at idle for a good 3 minutes with no fuel being fed to the carb. The pump never kicked back on.
Turned off the car left it off for about 3 minutes, turned the key and the pump started pumping again.
So to fix this problem, I picked up a mechical fuel pump. It wasn't working before, something like it wasn't pumping, both the new and old fuel pumps. The old fuel pump was off my 307.
I picked up an ACDelco fuel pump. Part number 41566. However I have been unable to do any work on the car due to family issues right now
I was able to move the car on Monday for the lawn cutting guys. The weeds were only up to the door handle on the pass side
Althought the float needed to be adjusted, my neighbor was watching my fuel pressure gauge. The fuel pump runs and runs and runs, until it overheats and stops running. Watched the fuel pressure drop from 6 to 3 then to zero, and then it ran at idle for a good 3 minutes with no fuel being fed to the carb. The pump never kicked back on.
Turned off the car left it off for about 3 minutes, turned the key and the pump started pumping again.
So to fix this problem, I picked up a mechical fuel pump. It wasn't working before, something like it wasn't pumping, both the new and old fuel pumps. The old fuel pump was off my 307.
I picked up an ACDelco fuel pump. Part number 41566. However I have been unable to do any work on the car due to family issues right now
I was able to move the car on Monday for the lawn cutting guys. The weeds were only up to the door handle on the pass side
#79
Registered User
Thread Starter
When I moved it, I was unable to break the rear tires loose by doing a burnout or by flooring it. The Inital timing is set at 21, the 1967 330 I have was set to 7.5 according to everything I've seen.
I reread this post and I see a lot of different numbers to try. I see 12-13 a lot. I also see 16-18 a lot. This is without the vacuum advance hooked up and line plugged. Didn't see any other open vacuum ports.
Motor: 1967 Olds 330 with 10.25:1 CR and 4 heads
I reread this post and I see a lot of different numbers to try. I see 12-13 a lot. I also see 16-18 a lot. This is without the vacuum advance hooked up and line plugged. Didn't see any other open vacuum ports.
Motor: 1967 Olds 330 with 10.25:1 CR and 4 heads