Everything is new, battery needs to be replaced

Okay the 330 in my delta, I got the timing set at 7.5* BTDC. idles great, put it in gear, slowly stumbles and dies. Restarts, then the rpms slowly rise to 2500 rpms. Reset idle back to 1100 in park, put in gear, stumbles and dies.

Any ideas? I'm lost

 

Also, at idle, if I floor it, it slowly climbs in rpms, very slowly

 

Does it still have points?

 

I'm leaning towards a vacuum leak.

 

No. HEI

I read that, but it has to be a big leak, like PVC valve or brake line leak. I'll look again, but they looked fine to me.

I was also thinking fuel mixture. But I want to check everything before I start messing with that.

If it helps, when I was timing it, I mixed up cyl 3 and 6, like I always do. Firing order is correct now.

 

18436572 counter clockwise.

 

You need more initial timing for a stock Hei. Set it to 16-18* btdc with vacuum advance disconnected.

 

Yeah I had it at 18463572, but it's correct now with the 18436572.

Weird, the engine shook a little, but no popping thru the exhaust.

 

Really? Even with a 1967 330?

My other one had a 1968 350, so that was set to 20.

 

Yes, there is less mechanical advance built into an HEI vs a points distributor.

 

I missed that. Yes, an HEI requires more initial due to the way that the advance curve is set up from the factory. You can buy a re-curve kit to give it the same type of curve that the points distributor had if you feel the need to.

 

Makes sense. At one point I had it at 19* and it ran pretty good, except the 3 and 6 plugs mixed up.

Don't know why that throws me off so much

So what would total timing look like then? 32*, 34*, 36*?

 

You will find it runs massively better with more timing. I have seen some HEI's with a less agressive curve, needing 12 or 13 base to hit 36-38 total. Run as much part throttle timing as possible with out pinging on the Olds V8. What is the actual compression ratio?

 

Sounds good

Thanks a lot guys! I'll post my results. Going to be "Kenny's Garage" tomorrow

 

Figure what total timing works best, leave the vacuum advance disconnected. Once you get your total dialed in then work on limiting the total with vacuum advance to 50-52.

 

If you don't know how much the vacuum can advances the timing, get a vacuum pump, hook it up to the distributor and watch the timing mark as you pump it. Then once you know your total mechanical you can just add that to your vacuum number and you have your total advance number. That will only come into play at light throttle while cruising on the freeway....usually.

 

I find 38 feels better on the street, 36 at the track.

 

Okay, got the initial timing to 19. Good idle but that's about it.

Engine races to 2100 rpm, tap the gas and it settles down (pinging at 19 too)

I put it in gear, stumbles down, dies. Restart the car, the same thing!

Wan to pull my hair out here!!

 

What carb? Stock HEI? I would try running it with the vacuum advanced unplugged and the hose plugged. You may need an adjustable vacuum advance, what is your 330's compression ratio?

 

Edelbrock 600 CFM, stock HEI . Vacuum advanced was unplugged.

The motor has a 10.25:1 CR.

It is backfiring thru the carb. Not too bad, popping and I see a drop or two of gas shoot out. Did the flame thing yesterday.

Battery is charging right now, it's dead. Other than rolling up the window, I'm done for the day

 

The Edelbrock carb opens a can of worms, is it a known good carb? Mine popped out the exhaust.

 

It is brand new

 

Check to make sure your mechanical advance is not sticking, lube it up. Edelbrock carbs have had a lot of issues right out of the box over the years. It sounds like yours may be lean.

 

Ok how do I check?

 

Is it a consistent popping like a rapid fire machine gun? Is the choke linkage stuck keeping the idle up? Can you adjust the idle down?

 

Yes, the ideal can be adjusted no problem. It's not a constant popping, when it stalls and I try to restart, it does it, but not all the time

 

As long as it moves freely and someone didn't throw on really light springs it should be fine. Is the starter dragging on restart?

 

It is, because the battery needs to be replaced

 

The popping can be a few things, high idle with a lot of fuel flowing and then the engine turns off, raw gas in the manifold. Are you sure your wires are right?

If the idle drops down when you tap the accelerator its the choke causing it.

Lower your timing and leave the vacuum advance disconnected until you get your initial and mechanical set.

 

Okay, I will. Tomorrow I do need to pick up a new battery for it. Battery is 5 years old

 

I have an electric fuel pump in the car too. It's just a basic pump. It ticks when the key is turned on

 

Edelbrock carbs are extremely sensitive to high fuel pressures. Make sure its 6#'s or less.

 

I'm sure it is. I didn't install it though.

 

This might sound REALLY stupid, but I have seen it before soo....

Check the rear of the carb and make sure that there is either a vacuum fitting with a hose on it or a plug there. That will cause a rather larger vacuum leak if neither is present.

 

Yeah I checked that. My brake booster is threaded into it just just if the quardrajett was still there

 

Thinking about this,

I do have the 330 timing marker, but I'm wondering if I do not have a correct 1967 balancer on there. What are the differences in the timing marks?

 

The only one that you have to worry about is the 1964 330. As far as I know all others are the same. (Joe P?)

 

The early balancers are different from the 68 and later balancers. They look different, take a picture. You have high compression, I have a feeling 19 is too much and that carb is probably needing adjustment.

 

But the timing mark is still at the same point on the balancer.

 

seemed to work well at 23, until it stumbled and stalled. Restart, put it in gear, and it stalled again.

Had to use the Volvo to push it back in the driveway