Timing set, new problem
#1
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Timing set, new problem
Everything is new, battery needs to be replaced
Okay the 330 in my delta, I got the timing set at 7.5* BTDC. idles great, put it in gear, slowly stumbles and dies. Restarts, then the rpms slowly rise to 2500 rpms. Reset idle back to 1100 in park, put in gear, stumbles and dies.
Any ideas? I'm lost
Okay the 330 in my delta, I got the timing set at 7.5* BTDC. idles great, put it in gear, slowly stumbles and dies. Restarts, then the rpms slowly rise to 2500 rpms. Reset idle back to 1100 in park, put in gear, stumbles and dies.
Any ideas? I'm lost
#5
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No. HEI
I read that, but it has to be a big leak, like PVC valve or brake line leak. I'll look again, but they looked fine to me.
I was also thinking fuel mixture. But I want to check everything before I start messing with that.
If it helps, when I was timing it, I mixed up cyl 3 and 6, like I always do. Firing order is correct now.
I read that, but it has to be a big leak, like PVC valve or brake line leak. I'll look again, but they looked fine to me.
I was also thinking fuel mixture. But I want to check everything before I start messing with that.
If it helps, when I was timing it, I mixed up cyl 3 and 6, like I always do. Firing order is correct now.
#9
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#11
I missed that. Yes, an HEI requires more initial due to the way that the advance curve is set up from the factory. You can buy a re-curve kit to give it the same type of curve that the points distributor had if you feel the need to.
#12
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Makes sense. At one point I had it at 19* and it ran pretty good, except the 3 and 6 plugs mixed up.
Don't know why that throws me off so much
So what would total timing look like then? 32*, 34*, 36*?
Don't know why that throws me off so much
So what would total timing look like then? 32*, 34*, 36*?
#13
You will find it runs massively better with more timing. I have seen some HEI's with a less agressive curve, needing 12 or 13 base to hit 36-38 total. Run as much part throttle timing as possible with out pinging on the Olds V8. What is the actual compression ratio?
#16
If you don't know how much the vacuum can advances the timing, get a vacuum pump, hook it up to the distributor and watch the timing mark as you pump it. Then once you know your total mechanical you can just add that to your vacuum number and you have your total advance number. That will only come into play at light throttle while cruising on the freeway....usually.
#18
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Okay, got the initial timing to 19. Good idle but that's about it.
Engine races to 2100 rpm, tap the gas and it settles down (pinging at 19 too)
I put it in gear, stumbles down, dies. Restart the car, the same thing!
Wan to pull my hair out here!!
Engine races to 2100 rpm, tap the gas and it settles down (pinging at 19 too)
I put it in gear, stumbles down, dies. Restart the car, the same thing!
Wan to pull my hair out here!!
#19
What carb? Stock HEI? I would try running it with the vacuum advanced unplugged and the hose plugged. You may need an adjustable vacuum advance, what is your 330's compression ratio?
#20
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Edelbrock 600 CFM, stock HEI . Vacuum advanced was unplugged.
The motor has a 10.25:1 CR.
It is backfiring thru the carb. Not too bad, popping and I see a drop or two of gas shoot out. Did the flame thing yesterday.
Battery is charging right now, it's dead. Other than rolling up the window, I'm done for the day
The motor has a 10.25:1 CR.
It is backfiring thru the carb. Not too bad, popping and I see a drop or two of gas shoot out. Did the flame thing yesterday.
Battery is charging right now, it's dead. Other than rolling up the window, I'm done for the day
#23
Check to make sure your mechanical advance is not sticking, lube it up. Edelbrock carbs have had a lot of issues right out of the box over the years. It sounds like yours may be lean.
#29
The popping can be a few things, high idle with a lot of fuel flowing and then the engine turns off, raw gas in the manifold. Are you sure your wires are right?
If the idle drops down when you tap the accelerator its the choke causing it.
Lower your timing and leave the vacuum advance disconnected until you get your initial and mechanical set.
If the idle drops down when you tap the accelerator its the choke causing it.
Lower your timing and leave the vacuum advance disconnected until you get your initial and mechanical set.
#34
This might sound REALLY stupid, but I have seen it before soo....
Check the rear of the carb and make sure that there is either a vacuum fitting with a hose on it or a plug there. That will cause a rather larger vacuum leak if neither is present.
Check the rear of the carb and make sure that there is either a vacuum fitting with a hose on it or a plug there. That will cause a rather larger vacuum leak if neither is present.
#36
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Thinking about this,
I do have the 330 timing marker, but I'm wondering if I do not have a correct 1967 balancer on there. What are the differences in the timing marks?
I do have the 330 timing marker, but I'm wondering if I do not have a correct 1967 balancer on there. What are the differences in the timing marks?
#38
The early balancers are different from the 68 and later balancers. They look different, take a picture. You have high compression, I have a feeling 19 is too much and that carb is probably needing adjustment.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; July 5th, 2016 at 05:53 AM.
#39
But the timing mark is still at the same point on the balancer.
#40
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Had to use the Volvo to push it back in the driveway