timing 350 rocket
#1
timing 350 rocket
what are some good base timing numbers with the vacum advance and without on a practically stock 68 350? the cam is stock and so is the bottom end and it has number 5 heads and headers and an exhaust can i get a base idea
#2
There are so many variables with todays fuel and the older engines, I just time it by ear!
Put the gas in it you're going to run, [hopefully premium, with your compression]and drive about 25 miles. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt 'til you can move the distributor with some pressure.
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
Tighten the hold-down, adjust the idle, and you're done!
Did this with my suburban, mileage went to 18MPG and it'll run hot if I go from mid-range to regular fuel. [Wife forgot!!]
Put the gas in it you're going to run, [hopefully premium, with your compression]and drive about 25 miles. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt 'til you can move the distributor with some pressure.
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
Tighten the hold-down, adjust the idle, and you're done!
Did this with my suburban, mileage went to 18MPG and it'll run hot if I go from mid-range to regular fuel. [Wife forgot!!]
Last edited by Rickman48; February 15th, 2011 at 04:37 PM.
#3
If you still have points make sure your dwell is @ 30 first. Setting timing to 10 - 12 degrees BTC would probably do it @ 1100rpm, then reduce rpm back to 800 for curb idle. Then set your air/fuel mixture. The timing should not be set with the vacuum advance connected.
#4
There are so many variables with todays fuel and the older engines, I just time it by ear!
Put the gas in it you're going to run, [hopefully premium, with your compression]and drive about 25 miles. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt 'til you can move the distributor with some pressure.
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
Tighten the hold-down, adjust the idle, and you're done!
Did this with my suburban, mileage went to 18MPG and it'll run hot if I go from mid-range to regular fuel. [Wife forgot!!]
Put the gas in it you're going to run, [hopefully premium, with your compression]and drive about 25 miles. Loosen the distributor hold-down bolt 'til you can move the distributor with some pressure.
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
Tighten the hold-down, adjust the idle, and you're done!
Did this with my suburban, mileage went to 18MPG and it'll run hot if I go from mid-range to regular fuel. [Wife forgot!!]
#5
If you still have points make sure your dwell is @ 30 first. Setting timing to 10 - 12 degrees BTC would probably do it @ 1100rpm, then reduce rpm back to 800 for curb idle. Then set your air/fuel mixture. The timing should not be set with the vacuum advance connected.
#6
Check to insure the resitor wire was removed when it was converted. Make sure your choke is not sticking after it warms up. Hook up a tach and adjust your air/ fuel mixture for the highest RPM and then reset your curb idle speed.
Last edited by oldcutlass; February 16th, 2011 at 07:37 AM.
#7
now our trans we got from a guy that swore it was rebuilt in a trade and we think it is shifting fine because if it wasnt we wouldnt be able to hit 55 mph without winding the motor out alot correct? because if it is shifting its shifting so smoothly we can barely feel it
#9
68 350 in a 1980 Cutlass Supreme with a turbo 400
Timing -
I started off at 14°, then to 16° back down to 12°.
Team, It feels like something is holding it back until I get to 2500-3000 RPM. Then it takes off, like changing gears.
I want that on takeoff sooner.
Thoughts?
"Rickman48" noted:
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
This is the direction I plan to go.
"83calais"
rough idle, like a cam, me too! I do not have a cam.
I had rough idle. So I rebuilt the carb, 17058230.
Still, one of my idle screws, passenger side, when I adjust it, does not make a difference to the motor. The drivers side, when turning, does. Example, if I turn it in the motor will die.
I plan to take the carb apart and see where the blockage is.
Thoughts?
Timing -
I started off at 14°, then to 16° back down to 12°.
Team, It feels like something is holding it back until I get to 2500-3000 RPM. Then it takes off, like changing gears.
I want that on takeoff sooner.
Thoughts?
"Rickman48" noted:
Advance it a little, and drive it like you stole it! Repeat until it pings, then back it off a little, until it stops.
This is the direction I plan to go.
"83calais"
rough idle, like a cam, me too! I do not have a cam.
I had rough idle. So I rebuilt the carb, 17058230.
Still, one of my idle screws, passenger side, when I adjust it, does not make a difference to the motor. The drivers side, when turning, does. Example, if I turn it in the motor will die.
I plan to take the carb apart and see where the blockage is.
Thoughts?
Last edited by RonzBoyz4; August 29th, 2012 at 12:52 AM. Reason: correction
#10
If you have an advance light, time for 36 total. One of my HEI's needed 12 initial, the other 23 initial to hit 36. The quickest the curves would come in, just over 3000 rpm with the lightest springs.
#11
I am trying to follow....
1. Normal operating temperature
2. Plug distributor vacuum (corrected)
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36°
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark
Correct?
1. Normal operating temperature
2. Plug distributor vacuum (corrected)
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36°
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark
Correct?
Last edited by RonzBoyz4; August 31st, 2012 at 01:47 AM. Reason: correction
#12
1. Normal operating temperature
2. Plug trans vac
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM[
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36°
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark just as the engine passes about 3,000 RPM, and stay there as you rev higher.
Correct?
2. Plug trans vac
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM[
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36°
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark just as the engine passes about 3,000 RPM, and stay there as you rev higher.
Correct?
- Eric
#13
I am trying to follow....
1. Normal operating temperature
2. Plug trans vac - as Eric said - plug the vacuum advance line.
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM - disregard this step because step 4 will set this!
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36° - 34-36*
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs - double check at 3500 RPM
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark
Correct?
1. Normal operating temperature
2. Plug trans vac - as Eric said - plug the vacuum advance line.
3. Set timing to 14° + - at 1000 RPM - disregard this step because step 4 will set this!
4. Advanced timing light, set it to 36° - 34-36*
5. Slowly rev up motor to 2500-3000 RPMs - double check at 3500 RPM
6. The light should light on “0” on the timing mark
Correct?
#14
How does it shift under full throttle ? you suerely should Feel it. if it had a shift kit, you would KNOW IT. shifting too smooth.... whats the fluid look like?? should be transparent pink, and toutch of brown, it may be slipping . been sitting that long, maybe sticky valve body.
Last edited by Fonz; October 22nd, 2023 at 05:20 PM.
#15
The OP's have probably figured this out over 10 years ago.
#17
#18
I remember 22 years ago when the engine was torn down I had to replace 2 of the rocker arm bridges (aluminum, new are steel), but the NOISE this thing is making, ( and I can FEEL IT with my hand on the carb,)that generally preceeds it shutting down. then it will start right up and run like new ! (stethoscope picks up nothing). it is now has the timeing reset to 12 degrees ( USING" ORIGINAL MARK" ON BALANCER), NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER. I took a NEW 600 Edelbrock off of one of my other projects, installed it, started right up idled beautiful, then started doing the same crap, the noise and Breaking up -- 5 psi fuel at all times, 17 vacuum, 12 degrees before top dead center, idles smooth at 900, .mech adv not sticking, vac adv working properly , used a smoke can to check for vacuum leaks, ...............................................I really do not want to be tearing this thing down , but that "rapping" is scaring me !!
#19
I remember 22 years ago when the engine was torn down I had to replace 2 of the rocker arm bridges (aluminum, new are steel), but the NOISE this thing is making, ( and I can FEEL IT with my hand on the carb,)that generally preceeds it shutting down. then it will start right up and run like new ! (stethoscope picks up nothing). it is now has the timeing reset to 12 degrees ( USING" ORIGINAL MARK" ON BALANCER), NO DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER. I took a NEW 600 Edelbrock off of one of my other projects, installed it, started right up idled beautiful, then started doing the same crap, the noise and Breaking up -- 5 psi fuel at all times, 17 vacuum, 12 degrees before top dead center, idles smooth at 900, .mech adv not sticking, vac adv working properly , used a smoke can to check for vacuum leaks, ...............................................I really do not want to be tearing this thing down , but that "rapping" is scaring me !!
#24
in your original post located here >>>>> 350 rocket making me crazy
#25
Norm makes it easy for you, but in the future you can just use the drop-down menu under your screen name in the upper right-hand corner. Find "My Posts," click on it and it will list all the entries you've posted, starting with the most recent.
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