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I personally can't stand a non running vehicle and want to enjoy the one Oldsmobile I will have left. I am pulling apart the 73 350 in my 88 as the temporary motor for my 70S. The 88 will be towed away next week, I stripped anything of value, including the cruise control, actually a 78 model for the 70S. The rubber valve cover gaskets broke into pieces, so the complete gasket job was done some years ago. Having Felpro blue head gaskets, it was 7.7 to 1 at best with the stock 14cc pistons, worst case around 7.6 to 1☹. The cylinders are more worn, you can see the ring marks and #4 is down 20 psi. Still it had around 40 psi at 2000 with 5W30 oil and used very little oil. I was just going throw in this 350 in as is, glad I didn't. I need to see if it has the N crank anyways being a 73 motor. I have a good used Performer cam and lifters. I am reusing the now discontinued Rocket Racing .028", came off in nice shape and Copper gasket spraying them for 9 to 1 with the big intake valve #6 heads. I did find this nice surprise.
It is worn, but not that bad, one cylinder down 20 psi on that side, 100 to 120 psi, other bank 130 psi, remember could be 7.6 to 1 compression. I am pretty sure it is an original 73 bottom end with gaskets, probably a couple of hundred thousand miles. Pretty sure it was a 2 bbl orginally, as it had an early 307 #17 4bbl iron intake. It supposedly replaced a 307 in a big car. It has 20 psi at idle and 40ish hot cruise for oil pressure. The 350 I am sending to machine shop had choke sticking issue, probably washed out #7 and #8 for compression, down 40 psi, brought it back 20 psi but hydrolocked a cylinder. It surprisingly has very little wear on the cylinders. The failing cam, just started one day ticking took out all the bearings, was barely hitting 25 psi with thick oil. This 73 motor is temporary and I am not spending money on it, hopefully only be in there for next year. I am degreeing the cam, will see how this performs.
Pulled the pan, no N on the crank. Just shows they must of started putting the non nodular cranks in 73. The valve covers and casting number says it is a 73 350.
Well pulled the rear main cap, they replaced the rear main seal as well with a rope seal. This took me two seconds to remove the old seal, a nice change, usually hours if anyone done one in the vehicle. Even with the motor out, the mains quite often need loosened and lifted slightly. Cleaned up the Ford 292 rubber seal, a dab of Permatex Optimum Black on each end, offset the seal and small line in the cap. Tapped and torqued back in place after cleaning. Not a perfect bearing, again a temporary motor, using existing gaskets, the new intake gaskets I had won't work on the other planned motor, so only $30 spent so far and should be it.
Well, I am a little more than frustrated on ordering parts through Amazon. I buy my main important parts through Mark Remmel. Not bothering Mark with little ***** I figured, little pissy parts are easy through Amazon. I ordered a 10 pack of thin Qjet gaskets since both tore removing the 1" open spacer on the Performer intake. Also ordered a heavy duty pan gasket set and an Autometer tachometer, no other tach has worked with my Mallory 6AL box. Well, the Tach was sent South to the Weyburn facility, no huge deal, no rush, SHOULD be here by the end of the week. Covid lockdowns has delayed the carb gaskets by weeks, hopefully next week at the latest. Also ordered a solar motion light to match the super bright one by the roll up door. This one was so I could see the two locks at my walk in door. Well, the sensor is screwed, only works properly once after resetting. So I ordered another, again, just got it, weeks late. Here is the best part, my pan gasket was shown as delivered, it isn't! I went to Purolator's site, said missed delivery, the door bell was not rang. They brought the package back to Regina, 1.5 hours away! So hopefully, they will bring it back here, will see. I get the volume of packages but don't show something as delivered when it wasn't.
Got my pan gaskets, a nice gasket, I assume not RTV is needed except where the side gaskets meet the pan lip seals. Hopefully the Autometer tach and carb gaskets come tomorrow. I plan on checking the ICL again this weekend. I will probably put it in 4 degrees advanced. I am pretty sure this is an Edelbrock timing set from some of the markings and the pics on line. Hopefully will get the short block in place as well. I need my engine stand empty for the 363 ci stroker within thr next couple of weeks.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 15th, 2021 at 07:49 PM.
This arrived today.
I figure a working tach and an AEM wideband are two necessities before the new motor goes in. Hopefully an Autometer tach will work with the Mallory 6AL.
Got the Performer cam in straight up which in at 107 or 107.5 ICL, cam torqued with the fuel pump eccentric and oil slinger in place. I put the pan in place with heavy duty Felpro pan gaskets with Permatex Optimum Black RTV just at the corners. I torqued it to the 7 ft/lbs spec. It is basically in dry. I usually put beads of RTV with the plain cork gaskets, will see how these do. Should have the short block in on the mounts today. I clear coated the pan since it usually gets badly scratched on install. Putting in the heads after so we don't have to remove the 200 pound 70S hood, it is dam heavy, even for two people and Kevin is a big strong kid. I need this 70 running or we have to carry in the fresh machined 350 block when it is done to go on the stand.
Short block in place on the mounts and trans bolted to the bellhousing. After I put the heads and intakes, the Sanderson shorties and 2.5" X pipe exhaust will go in place. Of course the trans mount broke and twisted the cooler lines. Changed the mount. The trans lines are getting replaced with Nickel Copper lines in a remote cooler instead of the rad cooler lines. My CK Performance .555" boost valve and larger reverse with their spool valve and spring. Installing that along with the TCI lock up kit in the 2004R. I also need to install the Cruise Control, so swapping speedo cables and switches.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 23rd, 2021 at 06:49 PM.
Hit everything with carb cleaner, already cleaned all surfaces with 3M discs on a drill. Sprayed the Rocket Racing .028" head gaskets with a few coats of Permatex Copper gasket spray. Then torqued in the proper pattern at 85 ft/lbs. Then pushrods and rocker arms evenly tightened to 25 ft/lbs. Permatex Aviation sealant around the intake ports and the other side of the Felpro steel shim intake gaskets. Also a bead of Permatex Optimum Black RTV around both sides on the 4 corner water ports. Then 3 layers of Optimum Black on both end rails. Intake torqued to 30 ft/lbs. The factory spec is 40 ft/lbs, Edelbrock calls 25 ft/lbs for the Performer, I gave it 30 ft/lbs. Then valve covers torqued to 86 inch pounds with the reusable rubber with steel core Rocket Racing rubber valve cover gaskets. So accessories, fuel pump, Mallory distributor, mini starter with 1 gauge cables from the 88, exhaust and the 2004R mods along with new Nickel Copper lines and it should be ready to fire up.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 24th, 2021 at 02:47 PM.
Well, I only got the oil sender tee done as far as on the 350. I got my 5000 rpm governor and red 12 tooth gear, should be pretty close with the brown 26 tooth gear and 225/70R14 tires. I also got the two wire lock up solenoid and TCI lock up wiring and pressure switch installed. I also got the complete CK .555" TV and larger reverse valve, spring and spool valve installed, the 4L60E bottom feed filter and deep pan back on. The TH2004R should be ready to go.
Sanderson shorty headers put on with Optimum Grey RTV. The fitting in the power steering pump and lines are different, later lines have a tube beyond the flare. They are the same thread between the two, so just change the fitting and switch lines to match the steering box. Got all that swapped around and the power steering filled with fluid.
I got the TCI lock up wiring and vacuum switch installed, starter wiring on and the exhaust mostly hung. I also received these, actually Supreme grills on my Cutlass S, I like them. I painted them with the Duplicolor Metalcast base silver coat. They cost me $200 Canadian shipped vs $500+ Canadian for a new set shipped.
Well after many hours of trials and tribulations, it runs and drives. It runs a lot better than it did, actually gets up and moves quite good. Oil pressure is good with 10W40 SL oil with ZDDP additive. It will need resonators, in town is too much droning. Videos tomorrow😁.
So, I set up the choke to the richest setup, tuned the carb idle mixture with a vacuum gauge and tach, 17" at 1000 rpm with the 204/214 cam. I also put on a new Wix 3033 3/8" inline fuel filter and bent a 3/8" Ni Cooper line from the fuel pump to the carb. What a PIA but it is done, very tight around the bottom of the serpentine bracket and the pump outlet. Starts better, still a bit long of a crank when warm. I also changed the oil, slightly grey in colour but mostly black. I did fill the cylinders with Kleenflo Combustion Chamber Cleaner before assembling. I cleaned everything out good, surprised it became black so quick. Maybe with the reverse rotation water pump and the block being empty, caused an air lock, no signs an obvious leak, maybe it is finally full. I also picked up a new rad cap and still need to get the speedometer working, was then wasn't, a connection issue. The Superturbo mufflers to replace the too loud Aerochamber's and new mini starter, replacing the slowish hot cranking one, they should be here, hopefully for next weekend. Was hoping to hear a call on Friday my 350 block was done, nothing yet.
Well this has been a frustrating few weeks with the 70S. First I swapped Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers for the Aerochamber mufflers, one had a hole. They barely made it quieter, surprised on this one. I will probably add dual cats next if I want it quieter and will do a A/F meter at the same time. I have been chasing a hard start when hot and a stall with a no restart, crapping out at 4000 rpm and stalling with no restart. I assumed it was the mini starter going with the hard hot start. I ordered this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1639
52392251
Turned out the the module somehow moved in the Mallory distributor and was hitting the reluctor wheel causing the hard start and going dead at 4000 rpm. I swapped in one of my 3 HEI distributors, problem solved and now the $200 Autometer tach is working. I also noticed my plugs were black and dry. I had to set the choke leaner and adjust the idle up, it stalled and flooded, the fans drop it a good 50 rpm. So another oil change was done, oil was black, not milky. I also had issue with my year old aluminum plastic rad seeping at the join. So I swapped in my original but recored at some point rad and I was rewarded with this.
I ordered this rad, a big upgrade for cooling. https://www.ebay.com/itm/351157989603
I also ordered this, very highly rated including from members on other sites. I have gone through way too many cheap ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/331368327733
Both these are more for the new engine, hearing a not nice noise in this motor, sounds like a wrist pin. Still waiting for the machine shop, will call them again on Friday.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; March 15th, 2021 at 08:03 PM.
Nice radiator. Make sure it has 1.75 lower hose nipple or you will be looking for a rubber reducer. I just installed a 3 row in my car with electric fans and a shroud.
Nice radiator. Make sure it has 1.75 lower hose nipple or you will be looking for a rubber reducer. I just installed a 3 row in my car with electric fans and a shroud.
Thanks. I do have an almost new 70 replacement Gates larger lower hose and 71 replacement almost new Gates lower hose with this aluminum/plastic rad, so hopefully I will be covered as far as lower hose size goes.
Congratulation Davies-Crag, it sure was nice to have a product, especially a fan controller work out of box. It is nice it shows what the probe is reading on the digital display and actually start where it is supposed to. I have it set as fan one is the low setting, comes on at 70C, then 10 seconds later high fans kick as fan two. The turn off at 65 and kick on again at 70 degrees, a very nice and highly rated product.
Well this temporary 350, sure was temporary☹. I had ignition issues, the pick up coil on the Mallory Breakerless distributor moved on it's own. It caused hard starting, acted like too much timing and died at 4000 rpm. The rear main bearing had wear but not super bad, apparently the rod bearings were worse. It cut out at 4000 rpm and spun a rod bearing. It is now knocking badly. I have contacted Cutlassefi, I will be sending him a lot of money. The machine shop after nearly 4 months says mine will be done shortly. I will now update this in my build thread, this is now closed.
December 30th, 2020, 05:43 AM
