swap meet 350 build.
#81
I have had good luck with the comp cams magnum timing set. I reused the gears from my previous build and bought a new chain. What makes it harder to degree the cam with all 8 pistons ? I do plan on degreeing the cam.
#82
when you installed the first piston, it was real easy to turn the crank, as you went down the line , did it not get harder to turn the crank. Now with all eight in , it will be harder to get exact reading when you dial the cam in. You need to have exact figures, it is hard to get that exact degree, when it is hard to turn the crank that last degree.
In short it is much easier with only, not saying it can't be done with all eight, just much harder.
Gene
In short it is much easier with only, not saying it can't be done with all eight, just much harder.
Gene
Last edited by 64Rocket; September 3rd, 2012 at 10:29 PM.
#83
i know what you mean but i can always have someone at the back of the plexplatye with a fly wheel turner help as i turn so i can get the right spot's. Im sure i can figure something out lol.
#84
I bought a cloyes standard timing set from rockauto, it lined right up and i degreed my cam with a ghetto dial-gauge setup with a degree wheel.
Car runs fine too, i'd suggest cloyes anytime.
By the way, where are the pictures of your build?
#86
when you installed the first piston, it was real easy to turn the crank, as you went down the line , did it not get harder to turn the crank. Now with all eight in , it will be harder to get exact reading when you dial the cam in. You need to have exact figures, it is hard to get that exact degree, when it is hard to turn the crank that last degree.
In short it is much easier with only, not saying it can't be done with all eight, just much harder.
Gene
In short it is much easier with only, not saying it can't be done with all eight, just much harder.
Gene
Also, I always install the cam before the crank for several reasons.
1) it is easier snaking it through the cam tunnel without the crank in the way, less chance to nick a bearing.
2) If there is an issue with a cam bearing that was not installed correctly, you find out then instead of after the crank was installed (and then need to be removed).
3) it is easier and less messy to lube up the cam lobes.
#87
the reason i did not install the cam was i did not have the rear plug in . I dont know if that rear plug act's like a stop for the cam. I usually do install the cam first as it is easy to do that way but things have been a little diffrent with this build.
#88
Just put the front gear on.
#89
Ok. So just a little update. Life has been a little hectic lately but i got out to the garage today and did some work to the engine. Not much but a little. I should be getting the last pieces from my dad's shop from getting cleaned up monday. i ordered the last of the parts needed. hopefully next weekend it will completly assembled .
#91
So today was my nephews birthday and my dad handed me some stuff. My intake and oil pan are till left but here is a peek at what the rest of my parts will look like after they are cleaned up.
#93
Copper, what type of pistons/rods are you using?
I've been reading more and more about olds engines, and i hear that olds stock parts are pretty good and heat treated back at the factory.
Mind you, those pistons look like flat-tops, i think the factory 350 pistons are dished right?
I've been reading more and more about olds engines, and i hear that olds stock parts are pretty good and heat treated back at the factory.
Mind you, those pistons look like flat-tops, i think the factory 350 pistons are dished right?
#94
Yes the factory pistons are dished usually cast and they have their breaking points as i have found out. Im running speed pro forged flat tops w/ stock rods. Only the w31's had flat tops.
#95
What kind of piston to deck clearance do you have? Not sure if its the way i'm looking at it, but The clearance on that #1 looks pretty close! Are you going to be able to put pump gas in this engine??
#97
they are .030 in the cylinder., with the heads being 66 cc's im at 9.97 to 1 compression. My last set up was similar but i had cast flat tops it ran fine on pump gas for me .
#99
no it's lighter it just duplicolor gold. Im not one to be picky., by the time you finish the grease stains it and it darkens up after you clean it up.
Last edited by coppercutlass; October 4th, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
#101
The heads where done by rocket racing. milled .024 big valves 2.072 in. 1.63 ex. bigger springs everything but port work all he did was clean up the bowls. The cam is a howards 512/512 lift with 227/234 duration at .050 lift. It's my frankestine motor top end which had may be 5k miles tops on a brand new short block. exhaust is full length headers with an x pipe and hooker aero chamber mufflers.
#102
btw can you guys see the pics my computer has been doing some weird stuff lately .
Im shootig for 12's on the motor . Going to a th350 trans to free up some hp. Gonna get a good converter, and bumping up to a 750 holley vac. secondary carb. My old combo with a converter that was too tight and a 600 cfm carb ran 13.3. Im positive if i had the proper converter and a bigger carb i would have hit 13.0 12.9x . The 60 ft. was dog crap 2.03 at best. fastest mph was 103.
Im shootig for 12's on the motor . Going to a th350 trans to free up some hp. Gonna get a good converter, and bumping up to a 750 holley vac. secondary carb. My old combo with a converter that was too tight and a 600 cfm carb ran 13.3. Im positive if i had the proper converter and a bigger carb i would have hit 13.0 12.9x . The 60 ft. was dog crap 2.03 at best. fastest mph was 103.
Last edited by coppercutlass; October 8th, 2012 at 09:25 AM.
#104
The wallace ET calculator has been spot on for my racing vehicles (Actual weight and actual dyoned horsepower). If you can get 320-325hp out of the motor you should be able to push your Olds in the 12.80 - 12.90s weighing 3500 Lbs.
This winter I'm building a junkyard 375hp 350 (GM) motor to hopefully put me in the 12.30-12.40s @3600.
This winter I'm building a junkyard 375hp 350 (GM) motor to hopefully put me in the 12.30-12.40s @3600.
#105
is gm code for chevy lol. Thats the range im shooting for with this combo IF thats a big if the moey allows but i"ll be happy with a high 12 sec sbo. I really dont feel like going faster as maintanance becomes more frequent and prices go up.
#106
When will your motor be completed as I'm curious to see how it turns outs. Your build could convince me to keep the GM motor stashed away and keep the olds 350 in my cutlass.
Are you going to dyno the motor? Well worth the money, so you don't guess on what the motor needs to make power and when it comes to buying the correct torque converter. Saves you a ton of money in the long run.
$400 for a half day is well worth it.
Are you going to dyno the motor? Well worth the money, so you don't guess on what the motor needs to make power and when it comes to buying the correct torque converter. Saves you a ton of money in the long run.
$400 for a half day is well worth it.
#107
yeah. My last combo saw 13.3 @ 103. the mph was there for a high 12 . the 60 foot was horrible. I have no doubt in my mind it would have gone 13.0 12.9x . I would have pciked up considerably with a good converter and with a bigger carb. This engine will not see the dyno. It's getting installed broken in putting some 200 miles on it and hitting the track. dyno numbers to me dot mean as much as what it does at the track. This combo is .030 vs. std. bore and i went with a bigger cam. I should see some numbers at the track that will make me happy this time around. The converter came down to money the first one was too tight and the one i installed after was flashing at 3k rpm which it was suppoused to flash at 2600-2800 rpm. this time around im custom ordering one or sending the 10 in. i have to be tightened up a bit.
Last edited by coppercutlass; October 9th, 2012 at 06:23 PM.
#108
Guy it's finally all put together. Hopefully we can fire it up here on a stand withing the month got alot going on. so finding time is hard but i will post a vid once we fire it up.
the carb is for looks
the carb is for looks
#109
So far im in it. 500 for the original short block with forged pistons, 150 for the donor block, 400 to machine the crank and balance the roating assy. and 350 to bore hone and r&r the cam bearings, 589 in parts thats cam, bearings, rings,header gaskets, intake gaskets , etc. etc. 1445 for the heads and valve train, 100 to mill the intake . 120 for the swap meet bought rpm intake. 50 for the oil pan which puts me at a grand total of 3554. which imo is not too shabby for a properly built 350 done with plenty of horse trading and slightly used parts that most would agree where re useable with no fear of hurting the integraty of the build
Last edited by coppercutlass; October 12th, 2012 at 07:53 PM.
#111
probably not untill late winter. I got alot of side jobs to finish up before it snow's and i have my dad's resto to focus on so im putting it on hold untill next year. It also comes down to when i get the new trans done. Im gonna build my own th350 and going to order a custom converter.
#113
I dont wanna leave anything on the table with this combo . Im also considering having a custom built q jet for my combo or going with a 750 quick fuel slayer carb. Which is also why im going to the th350 to free up that 20-30 hp i hear it free's up.
#114
For your application I would do the Holley and don't look back Q-jet is cool for having a more original look and maybe a little better mileage but you have a race car on the street just run the square bore.
#117
Pulled it out of a trunk of some guy that didnt know what i was. Gave him 50 bucks for it and drove away.
A couple hours of work, rince and air dry. She really performs well.
#118
Just thought i would fill you guys in on my plans. Well the cold is starting to set in and my projects have piled up as i quit my job 3 weeks back and currently waiting to start my new job. I been doing side jobs (body work) to bring in money so i have not had time to really mess with my stuff too much. The game plan is to install the engine sometime over the winter . Im probably going to rebuilt a th 350 for this combo and going to send out my 10 in. converter to get re worked . Since i have to wait im just going to little by little buy stuff for my engine like a milodon water pump, mini starter, stuff like that. Hopefully by next spring we can hit the track and see what numbers this combo pulls off.
#119
Ok this engine was never sold it's been one fun winter to say the least buying selling and accumulating more parts lol. Well today i started my engine run stand the 355 lives on and im not selling it. I also now have a very nice probe pistoned 355 and a 362 shortblock. the engine will be fired up with in the next few weeks. If anyone has a temperature gauge i can have let me know thats pretty much all i need i have an oil gauge. Also if anyone in the chicago area needs an engine run stand bring it down and we can strap it down and fire it up .
#120
Stay tuned !!!!!!!!!!!! the engine is going in this weekend. Hopefully fired up. I got it ready to pull out tommorow night and i have a few friends coming over to help me take it out and put the new engine in. Im excited and nervous at the same time but i hope everything turns out good and we can fire it up this weekend.