I'm working with a 79 California smog motor that is very complete and original.
Being what it is I would like to keep it that way.
Anybody back in the day ever figure out how to make these run any better with what they came from the factory with?

Is there any tuning with the smog parts by swapping from something else?
Any 'specs' on these parts out there?

I plan on a good recurve with a little hotter HEI module, a super tune on the quad,and maybe a better cat /cat back bent up to look stock.


Thanks, Doug

 

So what motor is this we're talking about ;305 chevy, 260 0r 307 Olds ?.I would think that any changes you could make to help the motor breath better ,less restriction in the intake,a K&N filter and less restriction in the exhaust -dual exhaust from the manifolds back would likely help out.I like the ideas you've mentioned ,maybe a hotter HEI coil might help out too,better plug wires ,don't forget about a good distributor cap and rotor too (MAW),other than those things IDK.Unless you want to start swapping internal parts ,cams and stuff .

 

350 Olds.

I plan a factory intake swap later. If there's a better one??

It only has 8.5-1 comp, so a cam to make it think it has more might come at the same time.

 

Not sure I follow you ,i thought you were wanting to keep it original ?

 

You will never get it to run any better with all of the emission controls intact, than you will by making sure that all of the original parts are working correctly and adjusting them to factory specs.

If you start messing with one part, others won't work properly.

Freer breathing air cleaners and hotter sparks won't improve anything.

These systems were not designed to accept any significant variation from their design parameters.

- Eric

 

I guess as Eric says ,leave it alone ,just make sure it all works like it's designed to.

 

All the cars I had back then had already been de-smogged or didnt have any to begin with. Just thought there may be a chance to change those parameters to work in my favor.


Thanks, Doug

 

I would start with getting rid of the crossover pipe and go true duals. I would then get better rear gears. Other than that and the recurve/carb tune, I don't see much else you can really do that's going to make a noticable difference. You can install headers, but they're not going to help much. Now if you want to rip the engine apart and do some major internal stuff, then that's a different story.

There are no factory intakes that are any better than what you already have.

 

Once you pull the intake to do a cam, get an A4 aluminum factory intake off 307's up to 84. It is no better but much lighter. Cutlassefi has custom grinds that will work with your 8.5 to 1 compression.

 

So which is it? Do you want to keep it original or swap parts?

 

A good carb rebuild would make a noticeable difference. Some carbs in that era were too lean and often the secondary circuit did not even open fully. I think blocking the crossover and quickening the advance curve would still fall within your parameters as well. Maybe a cooler thermostat too.

 

Because it is so complete, I am going to make it run as best as possible with what it came from the factory with.
Once that happens I am going to concentrate on doing the same with the suspension using only factory stuff save for bushings,ball joints and what not.
The limiting factor is going to be wheels/tires.
I want to run the factory 14" rims so I will be limited on brakes and tire grip.

 

I'd leave the engine alone other than making sure it's tuned properly as the others have said.

I would use Moog parts on your suspension and front end, it's all available at your local auto parts store. If you decide not to go local and you just want to sit nekkid on the couch and eat pizza and order off the internet. Then I suggest Rockauto with their discount code.

The 14" rims will not limit you on brakes as your are probably ok for stock discs. Tire grip has nothing to do with rim size, but 14" rims limit the availability for tire size.