SBO Stroker build
#41
1 jet change and a squirter change. The vacuum secondary has an adjusting screw, not multiple springs. Great setup, changed the screw about 1/4 turn.
#46
It IS a 9 to 1 mild street engine. Personally, I'll take the 400 ft/lbs at 3500 over 360 HP at 6 grand any day.
Last edited by captjim; January 2nd, 2013 at 06:50 PM.
#47
Mark and I discussed this engine at length prior to the build. The goal is low end torque, about 315 HP, and the ability to use 89 octane fuel. The car is a cruiser to go on LONG trips with. The Rocky mountain grades will be easier with the higher torque. Premium fuel can be hard to come by in some areas, therfore the lower compression. Yes it could have had more compression, and a whole pile of other options and cranked out a huge amount of Horsepower, but that was NOT the goal... (I do plan on leaving some black parallel stripes here and there!)
#48
I bet 87 will be useable. With right gears and converter, high 13's should be easy. Nice street build. Upgrades can always be done, if not enough. Nice solid foundation. My 403 was slower than what it should have been. I would have been lucky to hit 275 hp when it was running right. It was fun for one reason, torque! I sure miss that torque driving the v6 Dakota and Challenger. Of our streets of ice here right now, the traction control and 4x4 make up for it. Come spring, different story.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 3rd, 2013 at 07:53 AM.
#49
#50
Mark and I discussed this engine at length prior to the build. The goal is low end torque, about 315 HP, and the ability to use 89 octane fuel. The car is a cruiser to go on LONG trips with. The Rocky mountain grades will be easier with the higher torque. Premium fuel can be hard to come by in some areas, therfore the lower compression. Yes it could have had more compression, and a whole pile of other options and cranked out a huge amount of Horsepower, but that was NOT the goal... (I do plan on leaving some black parallel stripes here and there!)
#51
Going into the 72 cutlass convertible in my avatar... more pics in major build forum. or at www.sport-pilot.us click on oldsmobile link
#53
#54
Thanks for the heads-up.
Fulco's place is over near Tampa.
When I looked at the dyno sheet, I couldn't feature why it might have been run without recording the airflow into the engine as that loses VE%, A/F, BSAC and an easy way to evaluate the engine as a self-driven air pump.
IOG
Fulco's place is over near Tampa.
When I looked at the dyno sheet, I couldn't feature why it might have been run without recording the airflow into the engine as that loses VE%, A/F, BSAC and an easy way to evaluate the engine as a self-driven air pump.
IOG
#57
Best to figure what you really want. Make a list of goals and then pm an Olds engine builder. As everyone else has said Olds's are more expensive than chevy's so keep tbat in mind! Also keep in mind the good builders are always busy... It will take time to do it right so be patient!
#60
#62
What is the proscribed procedure for running a sbo crank in a diesel block ?
I know in the 400 sbc a 327 crank can be used with saddled bearings. Is there something like this for the olds ? I was thinking a 330 crank in the diesel would be extra stout.
I know in the 400 sbc a 327 crank can be used with saddled bearings. Is there something like this for the olds ? I was thinking a 330 crank in the diesel would be extra stout.
#63
There are some spacers out there, but using a sbo crank severely limits the available stroke.
IMO it's best just to turn the counterweights down on a 425 crank and grind the rod journals to a bbc size.
From there you can use a bunch of different off the shelf rod and piston combos to get the most cubic inches possible.
IMO it's best just to turn the counterweights down on a 425 crank and grind the rod journals to a bbc size.
From there you can use a bunch of different off the shelf rod and piston combos to get the most cubic inches possible.
#64
Personally, I liked using a 330 crank in my 380. Yes cubes were limited, got the spacers from BTR, but the crank weighed less, less Mallory, less labor to get it to fit, 2" crank pins (also less bearing speed). All made it a little monster..........I would build another one too.
#67
So with that 2.0" pin you'd be using a SB chevy rod with a 2.100 hole?and the rest would be the bearing ,is that correct?and then to get to the 380 you'd use a chevy 400 piston @4.155 size.What length rod did you use ?6.125 ?6.2?
#68
As far as length goes, you can use a 6.125 rod with a 1.425 cd piston or 6.00 rod with a 1.550 cd piston.
You normally have more choices with the 1.425 cd piston.
#69
Hey Mark ,thanks for responding I've been doing a lot of researching online with rod and piston combinations,(even made an Excel spreadsheet!) and it seems like its endless.So many choices for SBC stuff,that can be used in a 350 Olds motor.I really don't see why anybody wouldn't want to use SBO parts stuff when there is so much available at reasonable prices.
#72
#75
Piston would be about 1.250 cd. That's not overly short by today's standards.
The DX build is using a piston with a 1.165cd but the pin still isn't up in the oil ring because of the narrow ring pack, 1.5/1.5/3.0mm.
The DX build is using a piston with a 1.165cd but the pin still isn't up in the oil ring because of the narrow ring pack, 1.5/1.5/3.0mm.
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