Originally Posted by 83hurstguy

If #5 core heads have suddenly become worth significantly more than $150, I'll happily sell mine. I wouldn't be motivated to go through all the hassle of shipping them for that... they were a two year head, so they aren't hard to find. A true unmolested set may be a bit more challenging, but they are out there and available for very reasonable money.

Originally Posted by coppercutlass

Im using the melling stock replacement pump.

Are you planning on going to adjustable rockers ?? like a full roller ??

Originally Posted by Rick Finsta

Priority Main. The idea behind restricting the top end is to "keep oil down where it's needed!" but it turns out the real answer is just using proper clearances. If you've got a machinist that doesn't want the rods, bearings, crank, and block in hand prior to machining anything, RUN. Lots of shops just use numbers out of a book and think clearances are what you get when the machine work is done. NO. Clearances are PLANNED from the start and you get what you wanted or you get your money back. I wasted a lot of money once paying attention to oil restriction to the top end, only to spin a bearing because of too-small rod side clearance. Maybe I should have bought a micrometer or dial bore gauge instead of sooper-speshul coated bearings (and I'm not saying don't use coatings, I'm saying it is a lower priority than proper clearances).

The book I recommended is excellent reading and contains the information you seek. I'm not endorsing all Bill's thoughts, but if you want everything in one place that book is an economical choice. I think most people who have built a few Olds engines would agree that you're better off spending $25 on that book than $40 on cam oil restrictors. If nothing else it will give you a better frame of reference to come back and ask more questions.

Rods - stock rods can be fine. Or not. "The mission drives the gear train." - Pat Rogers.

Originally Posted by 1BOSS83

x2, Read it, great book.

If you like video and want some commentary from the author, this is part 1 of a cool series on a very high performance stroker build but good olds information is covered.

Turbo "S71" Olds Engine Build Video BTR Performance Part 1 V8TV - YouTube

Originally Posted by Octania

I believe your Chassis Service Manual shows the layout of the oil passages. Not much to it. oil pump to filter. Bypass in filter adapter in case filter will not pass oil. Back into block to RH gallery. Front of RH gallery has plug with hole to oil timing chain. crossover to LH gallery is at the #1 main bearing- always thought a little smoothing here would help the R to L flow. It's 3 holes intersecting just above the #1 bearing top half. Be sure the plug at aft end of LH gallery has a hole to lube the distributor gear. Many a builder puts in "the new plug" instead of "the correct" plug.

Each main bearing also feeds up to the cam bearing. Each fore-aft gallery feeds up to the lifters. Lifters pump to the rockers and valves of course. Heads' oil goes back thru horizontal-ish passages at each end- anything you can do to help that return is a good idea. smooth the sharp edges. Can't really drill larger w/o getting into water or whatnot.

Originally Posted by 76olds

Ryan, which builder are you using in Guelph? Active engines? Have they built many Olds engines?

Eric

Originally Posted by 76olds

Sounds like you have a good plan with your build, I hope it goes well. Beattywoods (Jeff) in brampton/Mississauga is one you may want to check out. I've heard he does good work for a reasonable price he also purchased a dyno machine a while back.
I've been kicking around a build for my 350 the past few years, wanting more power etc. The more I question myself on power, the more I'm considering just a decent build with stock power.
I guess age is coming into play on my decisions more and more LOL.
All the best with your decisions, these guys are helping you out here, that's awesome. Money just can't buy the advice we get here.

Cheers
Eric

Originally Posted by oldsmobiledave

That depends....how fast do you want to go & how long do you want this NEXT engine to stay together. Now is not the time to pinch pennies. Build it right the 1st time.

Originally Posted by Inline

About gearing. Think first where are you going to drive it. When i was seriously considering BBO, i didnt care, there for sure would have been enough torque to pull it despite of gearing.

But now when good SBO fall next to free to my hands, ive taken gearing into consideration too. Since i cant just hang with my cubes.
This is just one example, and my suggestion:

Wait until you have dynosheet of your motor. Then think where are you going to really drive it? Really drive, not where you fantasy to drive it all the time ( strip etc).
Take local speed-limits into consideration.
Im going to play my gearing so i have max acceleration when passing cars from local speed limits. For traffic-lights..? Dump the clutch with higher revs if you feel so. There are plenty of calculators on internet where you input your tire size etc, and can see your rpms with different speeds.

Originally Posted by junior supercar

you may need to stumble upon something like this
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...wisconsin.html

sell the heads and headers and swap on the correct stuff you need

as for pistons, probe, icon, wiseco, ross, keith black to name a few.

Originally Posted by 76olds

Ryan, you could also speak with a guy named Emillio at ECI engines. I just recently me a guy that lives in Toronto with a 73 Olds cutlass, said he was happy with his SBO from him.

Eric

Originally Posted by oldsmobiledave

If you are looking for an Oldsmobile engine builder who is proximal to you talk to Dale (aka gmrocket) over on ROP.

Originally Posted by cutlassefi

Are you not wanting to stroke or bore it? Having trouble following this thread. If so then yes you're very limited.
If not then just grind the crank to Chevy 2.100, use any aftermarket 6.200 sbc rod and you'll have a host of 1.425 compression distance, 4.125 bore sbc Pistons to choose from. I did one of these about 5-6 years ago. Came out great.

Originally Posted by Ryan 1969 Chevelle SS396

proper clearances are priority one, priority two is oil in the clearance:-)


I will buy the book soon.


Great advice, share clearances if you wish, I still have to research that whole topic:-)


Ryan

Originally Posted by Ryan 1969 Chevelle SS396

I want to understand this rotating assembly you explained above, as an option.

But what I want to do is not stroke it to stay PSMCDR legal and use the 6.000" scat or eagle rod' does that work.

I would love to chat some day you have time Mark, your advice on here is prime time reading for me!!!

Ryan

Originally Posted by Ryan 1969 Chevelle SS396

I re-watched the horsepower TV 350 Olds build and they used Eagle forged SBC rods, with Probe 0.030 Pistons, but mentioned a wrist pin bushing to accommodate the difference between the SBC 0.927" pin and the SBO 0.980" pin.
<snip>
I haven't found cost effective modern, light, Forged, thin ring, short skirt, pistons with the SBC pin diameter at the SBO compression height with an SBO diameter 0.030" over.........

Ryan

Originally Posted by cutlassefi

If you can't use a custom piston then that combination won't work.
Email me directly at fastone01@hotmail.com

Originally Posted by junior supercar

seems like you are considering a custom piston. probably best to keep the .927 pin if you are considering the above route, otherwise you are spending extra money. If the answer for considering the pin bushing is what I think it is, I wouldn't worry about it.

Originally Posted by cutlassefi

Are you not wanting to stroke or bore it? Having trouble following this thread. If so then yes you're very limited.
If not then just grind the crank to Chevy 2.100, use any aftermarket 6.200 sbc rod and you'll have a host of 1.425 compression distance, 4.125 bore sbc Pistons to choose from. I did one of these about 5-6 years ago. Came out great.