That's where a hidden switch comes in handy. Some use a hidden toggle switch, some wire the coil through the dimmer switch on the floor, some ground the coil through the cigar lighter (pushed in kills ignition), and some folks have installed a magnetic reed switch behind a dash panel and have to place a magnet over it to be able to start the engine. Lots of possibilities.

 

The relay can be activated by the original resistor wire, so no new wiring needs to pass through the firewall. It also provides full battery voltage to the HEI.


It's not the amateur that is going to steal your car.


It doesn't matter how many possibilities you throw at the ignition system. All it takes is 2 seconds with a clip lead from the battery to the coil + and 1 more tapped into the purple wire to the starter if you chose that route to disable it also. For the earlier models like mine, it's ready to roll. For the later ones, pop the ignition lock out of the column and it's gone. Seriously, it takes less than 5 minutes.

All those things do is keep the honest guy honest. The things I've found that work are inline fuel shutoffs (they won't get far, it will stall), removing the rotor (I've yet to find a thief that carried one around), and the only way to slow them down electrically is if the battery is in the trunk.

 

Most people who really want your car will bring a flatbed, so none of that really matters in the long run.

- Eric

 

Very true Eric, but that's a different set of challenges.

 

I have a kill switch but I still leave my car parked with the windows down 95 percent of the time where ever I park it . I don't care if its at walmart or my driveway I figure if its goning to get stolen its gonna be stolen. My theory is I have insurance so F*** it its worth more stolen anyway lol.

 

I can tell you no matter what you put in the car, kill switch, alarms, if they want they will get it. Buddy of mine works as a repo man. He can break in to most cars silently and without causing any damage in 2-3 minutes. So to steal my Cutlass it would take him 30 seconds. My neighbors 69 Camaro SS was stollen out of his garage while he was sleeping. Never heard a sound. If they want they will get it.

 

So if all it takes is a $2 switch and some time, why not do it? A LOT of car thefts are crimes of opportunity, and those are the ones we can do something about.

 

X2. Most car thieves want to be quick - in and gone in 30 - 45 sec. Anything that slows them down will make them go on to the next car. They are NOT going to take time to troubleshoot your ignition system.

If the thieves want your car specifically, then it doesn't matter what you do, they will just use a flatbed. The kill switch eliminates 80-90% of the thieves, so it definitely improves the odds.

 

Whenever I plan on doing lots of work under the dash, four bolts and the seat comes out.

 

Bench seat as well? I have the CSM but isn't there a manual for the body?

Red, what movie is the clip from?

 

If I am not mistaken that's Demolition Man.

 

The idea of the relay is isolate the HEI from the rest of the electrical system, there is a better chance of maintaining full voltage to the ignition that way. It has nothing to do with what the HEI draw's but what does everything else draw combined.

 

I went thru this about a year ago it seems difficult with so many opinions on the subject you can get really confused. When it's said and done it is really a very easy conversion! There are a million thoughts on this subject and mine may or may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me, the wiring is super clean (I'm a stickler for clean smooth running wires) and it has been trouble free for quite some time. You could follow my steps or add something in that the others suggested(like a relay system) it all comes down to your choice and if the car runs correctly! Keep in mind I am by no means an oldsmobile pro but love these cars and always love learning along the way! Check out the original link, it may help you out from a newbie perspective. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...2-cutlass.html

 

I honestly think a relay for this is a overkill. 10 or 12 gauge fused soldered to the pink wire is nice, clean, simple and does the job.

 

There is no right way to do this, however I've seen plenty of wrong ways. A simple splice into the pink wire, running a wire from the ign terminal in the fuse box, or a relay, etc.., all will work fine. We all make suggestions as to what worked for us.

 

Just a note: While it is good to follow your best judgement, the factory did NOT fuse either the points nor the HEI system.
We could debate their exact reasons, but the last one I did, I did not fuse.

- Eric

 

Using Ohm's law I(amps)=V/R.
The primary resistance on an HEI coil is .5-.6 ohms.


I = 12v/.05


12v/.05 = 24


So there is a potential 24 amp current draw.
That is why GM used a 12gu wire in the primary circuit.
The HEi has a potential secondary output of 40K volts!
Joe