Anyone have any issues when using factory cylinder head bolts. I figured I would clean them up, oil them, and torque them to spec.

I have read where people buy ARP, but if possible I would like to use that money elsewhere on the motor.

If there is no downside to using the original bolts, then I will proceed. They did their job for 40 plus years, I figured they are still good to go.

BTW, I had the heads rebuilt and will be installing them as soon as my head gaskets get here.

d1

 

check and wire brush the threads, oil the threads and shoulders, let them drain onto a towel to remove excess oil so it won't get pushed onto the deck when you install them. Torque in steps like 20-40-60-80-check80.

 

Thanks for the advice and listing the torque procedure.

d1

 

I've heard of head bolts stretching, not know if this is true.

 

There are bolts that are intended to stretch - these can only be used once. They are torqued using the technique of X-amount of torque, then x-degrees of additional rotation. They are usually used in European cars.

- Eric

 

For me, I have never had a problem reusing head bolts or even crankshaft cap bolts either. The only time I usually replace them is in performance applications like drag racing.

 

The head bolt closest to the exhaust ports is the one I would be weary of.
Besides, what does a new set cost, $40 - $50?

 

Many modern engines are Torque to yield, bolts are stretched to the point where they will not return to their original length and can not be re used.

 

Right, but this does not apply to any Olds V8 built with the exception of the Aurora. These motors used bolts that are not torque-to-yield and can be reused if they are in good shape. Since it's nearly impossible to get the head bolts with the stud on top, it's pretty much mandatory to reuse those anyway.