Attached are pictures of the block where the starter fastens. As you will see the block broke where one of the screws for the starter threads in. Any ideas on how, if, this can be repaired?

Thanks.
Don

 

A good welder should be able to fix that.

 

It's not an easy repair, you need someone who is proficient in cast iron welding.

 

Probably cheaper to get another block, welding and then resurfacing the area is a tough job.

 

I have had Chevy blocks fixed in the past but it is not something you can easily do with the engine in the car and it takes someone who is very very good at welding cast iron. Not many people around who are capable of it.

Where are you located ?

 

Is there an area of the block remaining where an offset/staggered bolt pattern starter nose could be retrofitted by drilling and threading another starter mount bolt hole? The nose would have to be from a GM staggered bolt starter that mounts on the driver's side. Would a staggered bolt mini starter work if there is an area to drill/thread? Just brainstorming an idea...

 

Hi,

INMO, I would scrap it and get another block, I had a sbc that had a broken starter mounting hole and spent a summer under it replacing broken starters and trying to rig up braces for the back of the starter, ultimately sold the car for a loss.

Regards,
Jim

 

I'm not able to help with repair information but I'm curious to know how the damage occurred.

 

There are a number of things.

If the bolt was loose and allowing the starter to move around it could do it.

There is a support brace at the front of some starters to help support them. If that is missing it can break the block.

Using the wrong bolt with too long of a shoulder and trying to tighten it can split the block too. GM starter bolts are very specific. They have a shoulder that goes into the short recess in the bolt hole to keep the starter aligned.

Just plain over tightening it can do the job too.

 

I've had similar repairs done recently. Welding cast iron with tig welder and nickle rod isn't that hard to do. I got a local guy who repairs all sorts of old farm equipment this way. Doing it in the car might be a challenge. I wouldn't scrap it if all else is good.

 

You'd have to remove the engine to weld it, so you MAW get a new block.

 

It depends on the condition of the engine as to whether it should be scrapped or not.

 

You guys that are telling him to get a new block must have plenty of money laying around. I would imagine you would be looking at 4-5K to go that route. He might be able to find someone to fix it on the car depending on where he is. Or pull the engine and then fix it. Its got to be worth a try.

 

x 2

 

No doubt. If it can be done in the car it'll be a few hour repair. Junking it is a few steps away at this point

 

I've got extra blocks, I'd sell you one for a reasonable price if you happened to be near the West Coast so shipping doesn't add too much to the costs. If you did decide to go that route you would likely be doing a rebuild. Or look for a good running used engine. if you ever wanted to go with a big block this might be the time to consider it. You can always start with the cheapest or simplest option first. Especially if the engine runs well and is still in the car you might try some of the suggestions other have made. If that doesn't work then step up to the next option. John

 

You really need to preheat the entire block weld then heat again and let it cool. Meaning the engine would probably be a part to do it correctly then
​​​Remachine the block

 

I doubt that you will have to disassemble the engine to get that repaired. I broke the ear off a 454 and had a buddy repair it, but I did have to pull it out first.

 

The problem with getting the old farm equipment guy to weld it is that the two bolts are what holds the starter in alignment with the ring gear. What are the odds that the new threaded hole will be in EXACTLY the same location as it was before? How much starter whining or gear grinding do you want to put up with? And how do you plan to surface the weld where the starter bolts up so it's flat? Yeah, I'm sure you can do this with the engine in the car. You had just better plan on flipping the car to an unsuspecting buyer before the starter or ring gear gets chewed up. The right way to fix this is to pull the motor. Welding on the cast iron block stands a high likelyhood of warping SOMETHING out of shape. Heat damage to the rubber rear oil pan seal? Nah, that could never happen.

 

You could always use JB Weld.