Reco: Intake, carb, HEI, headers
Reco: Intake, carb, HEI, headers
Hi,
Newbie here. Spent the past few days taking my car completely apart to have the body shop do a frame-off resto-mod.
While apart, I'm having my stock 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 Rocket 2 barrel with A/C rebuilt. Machine shop is boring .30 over, rebuilding heads, upgrading cam, etc., etc.
Can you recommend the following that won't require any mods?
-Intake manifold
-4BBL carb w/electric choke
-HEI (want to eliminate coil and points, etc.)
-Headers that will last and not need tightening
Thanks so much.
Jim
Newbie here. Spent the past few days taking my car completely apart to have the body shop do a frame-off resto-mod.
While apart, I'm having my stock 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 Rocket 2 barrel with A/C rebuilt. Machine shop is boring .30 over, rebuilding heads, upgrading cam, etc., etc.
Can you recommend the following that won't require any mods?
-Intake manifold
-4BBL carb w/electric choke
-HEI (want to eliminate coil and points, etc.)
-Headers that will last and not need tightening
Thanks so much.
Jim
Moved this thread to the small block forum, as you'll get more responses here than in electrical.
There are NO headers that don't require period tightening and gasket replacement. If that's a problem for you, stay with manifolds
The easiest "no modification" 4bbl swap uses factory parts, but I assume you don't want a cast iron intake. The Performer or Performer RPM are good choices, depending on the intended use of your car - the former for a relatively stock street-driven motor and the latter for one with mods. You'll find that the consensus here is to use a Qjet carb. Stock is good. The 70 carbs used a hot air choke. If you want an electric, simply replace the choke coil with one from an electric choke Qjet (the mid-80s Chevy trucks are good sources).
A stock HEI is also a good low-buck solution. Be sure to get one with a vacuum advance. The ones without vac advance will only work with the computer controlled Qjet system on the 307s.
There are NO headers that don't require period tightening and gasket replacement. If that's a problem for you, stay with manifolds
The easiest "no modification" 4bbl swap uses factory parts, but I assume you don't want a cast iron intake. The Performer or Performer RPM are good choices, depending on the intended use of your car - the former for a relatively stock street-driven motor and the latter for one with mods. You'll find that the consensus here is to use a Qjet carb. Stock is good. The 70 carbs used a hot air choke. If you want an electric, simply replace the choke coil with one from an electric choke Qjet (the mid-80s Chevy trucks are good sources).
A stock HEI is also a good low-buck solution. Be sure to get one with a vacuum advance. The ones without vac advance will only work with the computer controlled Qjet system on the 307s.
Joe hit the nail on the head.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...
You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...

You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Sounds good
That is within my budget. I want a daily driver but one that won't embarrass me if a college kid pulls up to the light in a Honda Civic. 
Recommendation on the headers?

Recommendation on the headers?
Joe hit the nail on the head.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...
You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...

You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Pertronix?
Recommended HEI system?
I heard good things about Pertronixs flame thrower...? Allow me to do away with points and starter coil...
I heard good things about Pertronixs flame thrower...? Allow me to do away with points and starter coil...
Joe hit the nail on the head.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...
You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Ask yourself what you want to do with the car and then determine what aftermarket parts you want. You also have to determine how much money you want to spend. A new aftermarket intake manifold costs $250 or so, plus about $120 for a mild aftermarket HEI, add $300 for a decent set of headers...

You can see that the prices add up pretty quick.
Here is what I'll add. Check things like swap meets and Craigslist for parts. I have gotten intakes and distributors off Craigslist. One of the best things I did for my 350 was a Mallory UniLite distributor and MSD coil and wires. All bought used for $100. Now that set up will get transfered to the Wife's engine once we swap in an Olds 350. Then I will put the MSD billet distributor that I bought brand new in the box for $175. Personally I would used exhaust manifolds rather than headers. That is just a personal preference. I won't recommend a carb because I am fed up with mine and I am going EFI.
I bought a new Flamethrower a few years ago and it worked great
A few words about the rebuild. Piston choices are very limited for Oldsmobiles. If you use the cheap cast replacement pistons, you will end up with a VERY low compression ratio, like 7.8 to 1. Those pistons have a large (24 cc) dish and are destroked (p/h of 1.595" vs the 1.615" factory). So, measure and calculate everything, try and end up with a compression ratio in the high 8.xx to 1 range at least. Low 9.xx to 1 even better. Then, get a cam in the 205-210 @ .050 on the intake, Performer, Q-jet, and you will have a perky little runner that is reliable and not too expensive. Headers are a PITA, but do increase performance, IMO. You decide if they are worth the hassle. Stock Oldsmobile exhaust manifolds are terrible, IMO.
A few words about the rebuild. Piston choices are very limited for Oldsmobiles. If you use the cheap cast replacement pistons, you will end up with a VERY low compression ratio, like 7.8 to 1. Those pistons have a large (24 cc) dish and are destroked (p/h of 1.595" vs the 1.615" factory). So, measure and calculate everything, try and end up with a compression ratio in the high 8.xx to 1 range at least. Low 9.xx to 1 even better. Then, get a cam in the 205-210 @ .050 on the intake, Performer, Q-jet, and you will have a perky little runner that is reliable and not too expensive. Headers are a PITA, but do increase performance, IMO. You decide if they are worth the hassle. Stock Oldsmobile exhaust manifolds are terrible, IMO.
Pertronix makes an excellent product. It converts an old style points distributor to a variable reluctor type ignition. If you are concerned about originality then it is definitely the way to go. I think their basic kit only costs about $80.
More..
Also leaning towards electric fuel pump.
And not to mention (unless I already did) conversion from manual drum to power discs!
Thanks for your help guys.
James
And not to mention (unless I already did) conversion from manual drum to power discs!

Thanks for your help guys.
James
Sanderson O351 shorty headers are a good compromise. I know one guy had problems with them, poor welds. I bought 2 sets, center and rear dumping both ok welds, thick 3/8" flanges, 16 guage tubes and ceramic coating still nice . I had a pair of flowtech ceramic full length 1 5/8"(get this size) A body headers. Had to tightened quite a bit and double gasket to seal worth a crap. The ceramic coating also got rust pits and peeled. The hooker competition headers might be a good option for a quality header.
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