I've got a car w/ a 68 Olds 350 that was rebuilt by the previous owner, and since then there have been around 5000 miles put on. While I haven't opened the engine to verify I believe there are hydraulic lifters. Between receipts I got w/ the car and having the valve covers off I've verified that a Comp Cams 1441 magnum rocker kit was used. If you listen reaaaaaally carefully you can hear the valvetrain moving w/ the engine on (I think, or I'm just imagining it). I'm looking to see what I should check for peace of mind. Is it recommended to check/adjust valve train after engine break in? I've checked to verify that the pushrods all have preload (no movement up/down following the procedure here: https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020/...ng-valve-lash/ ).

Regardless of the answer to the above, I'm also curious - it doesn't look like I can measure the existing preload, right? I actually would have to back off to no preload, tighten down to 0 lash, and then measure deflection w/ a dial indicator while tightening the fastener, right? The FSM section 6B has me a bit confused about this - it seems to indicate that the fasteners should simply be torqued to 25 ft-lbs(?).

Last, I don't have a hardcopy of any instructions that came w/ the rocker kit, and cannot find anything specifically for the 1441 kit online. How do I know the proper preload to put on? Is it specific to the lifters used (unknown), or do I just go w/ factory specs if/when I check or adjust?

Thanks.

 

The 25 ft-lb spec is tor the factory non adjustable rocker bridges.

ASSUMING the roller tip rockers were installed properly, there shouldn’t be a need to readjust them after break in. The only issue I can think of is if the crappy lock nuts don’t stay tight. For that reason I used Mr Gasket poly locks on mine, and haven’t needed to adjust them in nearly 20 years.

 

Got it, thanks for the response.

I'm still curious though regarding the procedure for setting this up, and the amount of preload needed. If I wanted to check the original installer's work, would I back them completely off, set to 0 lash, and then tighten further to a preload spec? If so, what determines what that spec should be?

 

Its been discussed before, but the pushrods that come with the 1441 "kit" have been too long for some people in the past. There are variations in machine work and head gasket thickness that cause this variable. You might want to inspect the end of a pushrod or too and make sure they are not buggered up. This of course would be more of a worse case.

As stated, its usually the poly locks backing off.