point gap spec for 72 350

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Old October 23rd, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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point gap spec for 72 350

Hey guys, i was wondering what is the factory spec for gapping the points on a 72 Olds 350, I can't seem to find it anywhere in my manuals, thanks!
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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.016 (sixteen thousands)(from my old memory bank) 30 degree dwell... If you are using points that have been manufactured in China, I would reset the points every 2500 miles. I have found that the rubbing block on these "less than perfect" replacements have a soft rubbing block which will close the gap on you, eventually leaving you on the side of the road wondering why there is no spark.

Last edited by Junkman; October 23rd, 2011 at 10:45 AM. Reason: add and correct
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 10:43 AM
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great, and thanks for the tip
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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After you set the points, check the timing, and adjust. Then recheck your point setting. Timing and point dwell have an intertwined relationship. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to get both exact.
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 442dreamer
I can't seem to find it anywhere in my manuals, thanks!
You can't find it because there is no point gap spec for 1972.
By 1972, they only specified dwell angle, which is 30° in all GM V8s.
Dwell angle is a far more accurate way to set the points, and far easier to set as well.

From the 1972 Chassis Service Manual:





And Junkman is right - recheck those points more often than you think you should - the cheap new ones wear very quickly and retard your timing as they do.

Originally Posted by Junkman
Timing and point dwell have an intertwined relationship. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to get both exact.
Not exactly.

Your point gap will affect your timing, but your timing will not affect your point gap.

If you set the dwell, you need to recheck the timing, but if you set the timing, the dwell will not be affected.

- Eric
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
1972 Dwell Angle.jpg (32.2 KB, 325 views)
File Type: jpg
1972 Spark Plug Gap.jpg (81.6 KB, 328 views)
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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If you don't have a dwell meter, 16 thousanths is correct. No doubt it is not as accurate as a dwell meter. I have heard stories of using a matchbook cover in emergencies but have never had to do it. Besides, matchbook covers are hard to find these days.
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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The matchbook cover was truly a remarkable tool! I believe .019 is closer to 30 deg dwell!
Old October 23rd, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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I can vouch for the fact that the matchbook cover does work.

A dwell meter is so much nicer, though. And cheap at yard sales and flea markets!

- Eric
Old January 15th, 2018 | 07:57 PM
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No spark

Changed my points and getting no spark. Is the Allen wrench the way to adjust them?
Old January 15th, 2018 | 08:53 PM
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They probably are not opening then. They are adjusted through the window in the distributor cap with an allen wrench. Take the cap off and see if they are opening.
Old January 15th, 2018 | 10:36 PM
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I worked at a very busy service station in the seventies and eighties .
I did tune-ups on literally thousands of GM 57-74 V-8 cars .
I never adjusted GM point "gaps " .
The points are supposed to be adjusted from the factory . At least close enough to get the engine running .
We would simply push them all the way into place , tighten the screws , and put the rotor and cap on .
A dwell meter was already connected to the coil . And I would crank the engine and adjust the dwell through the "window" in the cap .
Timing was adjusted , then the carb , and it was "out the door " .
Old January 15th, 2018 | 10:51 PM
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A timing light and a dwell meter are minimum requirements when working on these old "points" ignitions . As suggested , yard sales and flea markets are good sources . As well as E-Bay .
Old January 16th, 2018 | 07:12 PM
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If I had one that was "out of adjustment" after installing the new points, I would put the Alan wrench into the point adjustment, and have an assistant crank the car while I made the "adjustment". Once it was running, I would use the dwell meter to adjust them to spec.
Old January 16th, 2018 | 07:17 PM
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Charlie is correct in that you could just about always stick the points in right out of the box and the car would start. I would love to have external adjustment points on my 54. I think Olds went to external adjustment in 56. If I come across a 56 distributor at a bargain, I will be all over it.
Old January 16th, 2018 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
Charlie is correct in that you could just about always stick the points in right out of the box and the car would start. I would love to have external adjustment points on my 54. I think Olds went to external adjustment in 56. If I come across a 56 distributor at a bargain, I will be all over it.
According to the Hollander , 56 thru 58 all fit . It said something about the vacuum advance may have to be changed .
Old January 16th, 2018 | 10:06 PM
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Thanks Charlie.
Old January 16th, 2018 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 442dreamer
great, and thanks for the tip
Here's another tip. Buy spare points and condenser and a screwdriver. Have it adjusted and put it in your glove box. I had a 74 Cutlass Supreme and my points burnt out in the middle of the highway. Its a good thing I had a spare points in my glove box. I was in and out of highway in no time.
Old January 17th, 2018 | 12:40 AM
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I would not put anything but Accell points in my distributor, excellent quality, had them to 6000 rpm, zero problems. Unfortunately they are pricey.
Points only #110128, Kit # 8104
PS, make sure there is no side to side play in your distributor shaft, this will cause incorrect point activation. Good luck with your tune up.
Old January 20th, 2018 | 08:52 AM
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I've attached a PDF with some info for you. I think what you are looking for is on the first page.
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File Type: pdf
1972 Tune-up.pdf (1.78 MB, 35 views)
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