Did some searches first but keep getting error message no topics found.

Can someone post a link to a topic that explains how to plug the relief bypass in the oil filter housing, one with pictures would be even better.

 

Welcome to the site! So your wanting to plug the bypass? My understanding is that the bypass is needed when the oil pressure is such that it won't move the oil through the filter element fast enough. Can you tell us more about what your wanting to do? John

 

I'm rebuilding my engine and my bearings looks good but they have some radial scratches on some which I'm sure is because the oil bypass valve/passage is open all the time.

I change my oil often and I use good filters, WIX, NAPA Gold and good oil but it gets dirty fast so thats why I want to plug it.

Oil pressure not a problem, 7qt. pan HV oil pump.

 

Why is that your conclusion?

- Eric

 

I always plug the bypass. I want my oil to be filtered period! Use the good filters you have been and frequent oil changes like you have been. I see no down side to plugging the bypass.

 

If you plan on plugging this make sure you have an oil pressure gauge so you can see the pressure drop if the filter gets clogged. Otherwise you won't have a clue if this happens. In reality if your filter does get clogged at any point you're probably to late to save the engine anyway.

To plug your filter housing just pry the sealing disc out with a screwdriver and remove the assembly. Drill and tap the hole for an 1/8 inch pipe plug. Just stick to normal oil changes and you should be gtg

 

Guages are great to tell you what the pressure is when you are looking at them but most people don't constantly keep an eye on them while driving. Always have a low pressure activated light located where it will catch your attention when it comes on.

 

If the bypass is opening all the time you have a problem. Either it's stuck open (seen that many times) or you have more oil pressure than it can handle and it's relieving to keep from blowing the oil filter apart. Either way you won't get proper filtration.

A good soak in carb cleaner will unstick it unless the disc or bore is damaged.

If the spring is weak, replace it.

If you have extremely high oil pressure at the filter, find out why. Either you have too much pump or too tight clearances, or some other restriction in the oiling system.

I know plenty of folks who have plugged the relief port with no issues. I personally am not comfortable with it. If the filter plugs with no way to relieve pressure, it will fail and you will have a major oil loss. If the bypass is operable, you'll at least keep the oil in the engine and circulating instead of spilling all over the pavement.

 

If you plug an oil filter, you are about to have a real big headache besides the filter problem!

 

I do have high oil pressure, it's not do to tight clearances, mine are on the loose side. I run a High Volume Oil pump, the pressure relief spring has been shimmed to provide additional oil pressure, I have screw in main restrictors. I think I mentioned I have a 7qt. oil pan, I made it myself, I figure why pay $239 for a Moroso or $289 for a Milodon oil pan and took that money and bought a welder and made one instead which I made some improvements to over the pans listed above.

I think I will be able to figure out how to plug the oil filter bypass passage from what TripDeuces described BUT if anyone knows where a topic on how to do it is, with photos, post a link.

 

I took a screw driver and removed the flat disc piece but the spring is still inside the bore. Am I suppose to tap this piece that the disc sat on thats held in place by what looks like were created by using a punch?

It isn't that thick so there isn't much to add treads to, or am I suppose to remove that so the spring will come out and then tap the bore the spring and flat disc resided in?

 

"To plug your filter housing just pry the sealing disc out with a screwdriver and remove the assembly. Drill and tap the hole for an 1/8 inch pipe plug."

 

Just to be sure I'm not going to *&%# up my oil filter housing by doing something wrong I took these picturesto help explain what I have done so far and get feedback on how to proceed.

I took a small screw driver and started pushing down on what though was a screen, spring pressure was weak, I can see why these things are aways passing oil by the filter.

After pushing down on what I though was a screen, it flipped onto it's side and I grabbed it with neednose pliars and gave it a tug, it broke in half and basically fell out. It's made of some kind of carbon clay crap. Pictured below.



So do I remove this steel washer looking seat that held in place by stress risers created by someone using a punch or do I leave it in and tap threads into it. Not much there to make threads in or do I remove it and tap the bore under it in this cast aluminum oil filter adapter?



Last pics shows the oil releif spring still in bore under the steel seat. As you can see, the steel seat washer looking thing isn't very thick so making thread in it won't produce much for a plug.



TripDeuces have you actually plugged a oil bypass in an Olds oil filter adapter before?

If anyone has actually plugged their oil bypass, please reply.

Wouldn't it be better to use a flat plug that you use a allen wrench to turn to install be better than using a pipe plug that has a four sided nut like thing on top to tighten the plug?

 

I'll try to answer these in order:

First off you have to remember that you're dealing with 40-60psi. That fiber washer is maybe a 1/3 of a square inch in size so it's going to see roughly a 1/3 of the pressure generated. Maybe that's why it feels weak to you or maybe it really is and the spring is shot.

That steel washer that is peened/swedged in there needs to come out along with the spring and anything else under there. You do not tap the washer but rather the parent aluminum housing it's pressed into. That hole is obviously bigger than 1/8npt. I did say 1/8npt because that was what I read to do. If the hole is bigger then that then move up to a 1/4npt, either way you are sealing the housing.

No I have not personally done this to my oil filter housing but will be doing it soon. Let's face it, if anything big enough to clog that port gets in there your engine is toast at that point anyway and if your filter is that clogged that the bypass is being used you have bigger problems than this plug will ever cause. Change your oil often, keep it clean and use a quality filter like Wix or Napa Gold (Wix). This isn't rocket science it's simple mechanics. I don't mean to sound smug but I've worked so much with metal that this kind of stuff is second nature to me and I just think it's straight forward in how I've explained it.

Pipe plugs come in a bunch of styles: allen head, hex head, square head, common screwdriver slot, etc. What you use is up to you but yes the allen head would be flat and probably your best bet. Just keep it below the oil filter sealing surface.

If you're still worried about doing this I have a nice shiny billet oil filter housing I'll sell you for $50 that has no bypass in it.

 

I think after you get down to the nitty gritty an allen head 1/4" pipe plug is what it takes. I use a System 1 oil filter. Used to use the NAPA before.

 

Great

380 Racer, can you PM me your engine builders email address so I can send him the pictures I posted here and get some help from someone who has actually plugged a oil bypass on a olds filter adapter.

 

Now you're mad because I personally haven't done this? How does me having done it help you? Myself and others have bent over backwards to try and help you on this thread. You've been given the exact procedure in writing, want me to come over and do it for you also? Pull the trigger and do it because you have no choice now since you broke it. Cripes

 

Just tap the hole and put a plug in it.

You didn't need to do it in the first place.

It doesn't matter what kind of plug, what size, standard or metric, allen or square, as long as it fits in the hole and doesn't get in the way of anything else.

Filter adapters are a dime a dozen - if you break it, get another one.

- Eric

 

I wouldn't give advise unless I actually have experiance doing what I am telling someone to do, it's better not to give any advice than to give out wrong advice.

Yeah I'm pissed, this website doesn't need people like you giving out advice on something you have only read, then when they mess up their engine all you can say is I have bent over backwards to tell you how to do somwething that I have never done,

I don't care it's not my engine, I get off watching people use my advice and blow up their engine.

Do everyone a favor and don't do us any favors.

 

I just did the one I have this morning using the procedure I outlined above. Worked out great too. Took me all of half an hour. Now that I have experience doing it I guess I'm qualified to speak again.

Just because I never killed anyone doesn't mean I don't know how to use a gun.

Remember you asked for the advice. Myself and others all tried to help you and now you're mad because you think we're unqualified? There wasn't anything else people could have told you about how to do it. It's a simple procedure. I also know how to fix the one you broke but since I never did that personally I'll just keep it to myself. Good luck in life.

 

Yeah right, post pictures, oh thats right you don't have a camera, you forgot to take pictures, you don't know how to post pictures, you already bolted it on your engine, you are using it to smoke crack, you'll take pictures tommorrow, next week maybe in your next life.

Good luck in life to you, from your looks of your avtar, you don't have a life.

 

I do have a camera. I do know how to post pics on here. I did not take pics of my work. I think I see the problem now. You're a visual type of person who has a tough time with the written word. Next time I'll draw you pics in crayon. I have a box of 64 with the sharpener in the back. Just to prove I know how to post pics here are a few of my work. I don't want to be considered unqualified.

Tri-Carb005.jpg

Carbs004.jpg



Tri-Carbwaterneckdetail.jpg

All my handy work in my spare time.

Btw, Alex disagrees with your assessment of my life.

 

Gentlemen,

Let's please keep this discussion civil, Many thanks, Jamesbo

 

Why on earth would anyone bother to post pictures of such a simple procedure?

Usually you post pictures to show people how to do something difficult or confusing.
In this case, SBO has posted his own pictures, with arrows pointing to the correct hole to tap.
All that would remain would be photos of the tapping and screwing in of the plug, which is not, as I said, at the level of complexity that usually merits photos.

- Eric

 

Not a problem Jamesbo. I'm done saying anything. I think I made my point.

 

I just plugged the bypass on my engine. Hoping this helps out other people executing this. It's a bit tricky but fairly easy. After i popped out the ring which holds the plate & spring, I found 3 ribs extending down the bore. I used an air tool with a crosscut bit and leveled it. Once complete, I then ran a 3/4 fine tap to the bottom. Next, I used a chunk of 3/4 fine all thread, carved in a slot for a screwdriver and drove it to the buttom. Once bottomed, I peened over and edge so it could not back out. hope this helps. Eric

 

Nice fabrication

 

Looks legit, nice work and pics

 

Since this got reopened, here's my oil filter adapter with bypass plugged (1/4 npt pipe plug) and oil pressure tap (1/8 npt adapter). I would not recommend either for use other than on a race only build. Adapter is pretty thin where I installed the oil pressure tap and I was very careful using a tapered pipe reamer after drilling a pilot hole prior to cutting the pipe threads.