Piston ring assambly....confused

Old Jun 12, 2014 | 02:01 AM
  #1  
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Piston ring assambly....confused

Hello! I ordered a new set of piston rings (sealed power) for my 66 f85, 330cui.
This are the instructions (picture). I am confused because the top ring is all black and the second ring has a shiny silver surface. As i know the top ring has a shiny silver surface and the second ring is black.

Are the assambly instructions OK. Thanks for your help
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 02:48 AM
  #2  
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It all depends on the rings. Budget sets are often made up of rings from different suppliers. So follow the instructions.
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Smitty275
It all depends on the rings. Budget sets are often made up of rings from different suppliers. So follow the instructions.
OK, I´ll follow the instructions. Thank you
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:22 AM
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What's the part number of the ring set?
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 1966Oldsmobile
I am confused because the top ring is all black and the second ring has a shiny silver surface.
The all black ring is pure cast iron. The silver surface is a moly-coated ring. Personally I prefer all cast rings, as sometimes the moly rings won't seat unless the wall finish is perfect.
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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If it's an E252X set then just look at each ring. Top ring should have a "top" or "o" on it for an upward designation. That ring should then have the bevel on the inside upper. The second ring is opposite. The top designation should reflect the inside bevel be facing down.
Then install the oil ring expander gap over on skirt. The rails should then be installed opposite while splitting the skirt area. In other words the spacer gap should be at 6 o:clock while the rails are at 10:00 and 2:00.

Hope this helps.
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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X2 "Top ring should have a "top" or "o" on it for an upward designation. That ring should then have the bevel on the inside upper. The second ring is opposite. The top designation should reflect the inside bevel be facing down."

The bevel on the inside upper (upward facing) of the top ring causes the compression when the piston is moving upward, to expand/push the top ring against the cylinder wall.

Similarly, the bevel on the inside lower (downward facing) of the bottom ring causes the bottom ring to expand/push against the wall when the piston is moving downward. Are you checking end gaps on the rings? It is critical. How are you honing the cylinders. Seating of the rings is also important. Are instructions supplied for seating/breaking them in?
Old Jun 12, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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I was taught never to have the ring gaps on the thrust apex of the cylinder, or on the opposite side. That is 90 degrees from the wrist pin. Also Set the gaps 120 degrees apart, assuming the front of the cylinder to be 12 O'clock the gaps should be 12 o/c, 4 o/c and 8 o/c.
It works for me, others may have their own ideas which work equally well.


Roger.
Old Jun 13, 2014 | 03:13 AM
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What if you have cast rings and a moly coated ring, does the moly one always go in the top groove?
Old Jun 13, 2014 | 04:48 AM
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Rings rotate on the piston during operation, so it doesn't really matter where you put the gaps. So there's not initial contamination on startup, it's best to not have all the gaps lined up.

.
Old Jun 13, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by boese1978
What if you have cast rings and a moly coated ring, does the moly one always go in the top groove?
Yes.
Old Jun 13, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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it is a e252x set. i followed the instruction. the cast (black) ring first and the moly (silver surface) ring second. hope this will work! are you ok with that...
Old Jun 13, 2014 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 1966Oldsmobile
it is a e252x set. i followed the instruction. the cast (black) ring first and the moly (silver surface) ring second. hope this will work! are you ok with that...
I've never seen a moly ring pack that didn't have the moly ring on the top.
You very well may have it backwards but the best way to tell is by checking the bevel as previously described.
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