Piston ring assambly....confused
Piston ring assambly....confused
Hello! I ordered a new set of piston rings (sealed power) for my 66 f85, 330cui.
This are the instructions (picture). I am confused because the top ring is all black and the second ring has a shiny silver surface. As i know the top ring has a shiny silver surface and the second ring is black.
Are the assambly instructions OK. Thanks for your help
This are the instructions (picture). I am confused because the top ring is all black and the second ring has a shiny silver surface. As i know the top ring has a shiny silver surface and the second ring is black.
Are the assambly instructions OK. Thanks for your help
The all black ring is pure cast iron. The silver surface is a moly-coated ring. Personally I prefer all cast rings, as sometimes the moly rings won't seat unless the wall finish is perfect.
If it's an E252X set then just look at each ring. Top ring should have a "top" or "o" on it for an upward designation. That ring should then have the bevel on the inside upper. The second ring is opposite. The top designation should reflect the inside bevel be facing down.
Then install the oil ring expander gap over on skirt. The rails should then be installed opposite while splitting the skirt area. In other words the spacer gap should be at 6 o:clock while the rails are at 10:00 and 2:00.
Hope this helps.
Then install the oil ring expander gap over on skirt. The rails should then be installed opposite while splitting the skirt area. In other words the spacer gap should be at 6 o:clock while the rails are at 10:00 and 2:00.
Hope this helps.
X2 "Top ring should have a "top" or "o" on it for an upward designation. That ring should then have the bevel on the inside upper. The second ring is opposite. The top designation should reflect the inside bevel be facing down."
The bevel on the inside upper (upward facing) of the top ring causes the compression when the piston is moving upward, to expand/push the top ring against the cylinder wall.
Similarly, the bevel on the inside lower (downward facing) of the bottom ring causes the bottom ring to expand/push against the wall when the piston is moving downward. Are you checking end gaps on the rings? It is critical. How are you honing the cylinders. Seating of the rings is also important. Are instructions supplied for seating/breaking them in?
The bevel on the inside upper (upward facing) of the top ring causes the compression when the piston is moving upward, to expand/push the top ring against the cylinder wall.
Similarly, the bevel on the inside lower (downward facing) of the bottom ring causes the bottom ring to expand/push against the wall when the piston is moving downward. Are you checking end gaps on the rings? It is critical. How are you honing the cylinders. Seating of the rings is also important. Are instructions supplied for seating/breaking them in?
I was taught never to have the ring gaps on the thrust apex of the cylinder, or on the opposite side. That is 90 degrees from the wrist pin. Also Set the gaps 120 degrees apart, assuming the front of the cylinder to be 12 O'clock the gaps should be 12 o/c, 4 o/c and 8 o/c.
It works for me, others may have their own ideas which work equally well.
Roger.
It works for me, others may have their own ideas which work equally well.
Roger.
You very well may have it backwards but the best way to tell is by checking the bevel as previously described.
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