Overheating for some reason
March 19th, 2016, 11:47 AM
#41
72Cutlass S
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,040
You could have a vacuum leak at carb baseplate gasket. Spray around carb baseplate with choke spray at idle. If you have a leak the idle speed will change. Also disconnect the throttle cable to see if that lowers the idle.
March 19th, 2016, 01:19 PM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: BC
Posts: 65
280 is head gasket blowing territory, trust me, see pic. Do not drive. I assume your oil is clean, not milky, right?
That high idle sure sounds like a big vacuum leak. The first thing I'd check for the high temp is verifying ignition timing. Then put the old carb back on just to rule that part out. Or do it the other way around, whatever works
That high idle sure sounds like a big vacuum leak. The first thing I'd check for the high temp is verifying ignition timing. Then put the old carb back on just to rule that part out. Or do it the other way around, whatever works
Last edited by Grumbler; March 19th, 2016 at 01:27 PM.
March 19th, 2016, 01:34 PM
#45
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 25
280 is head gasket blowing territory, trust me, see pic. Do not drive. I assume your oil is clean, not milky, right?
That high idle sure sounds like a big vacuum leak. The first thing I'd check for the high temp is verifying ignition timing. Then put the old carb back on just to rule that part out. Or do it the other way around, whatever works
That high idle sure sounds like a big vacuum leak. The first thing I'd check for the high temp is verifying ignition timing. Then put the old carb back on just to rule that part out. Or do it the other way around, whatever works
March 19th, 2016, 01:46 PM
#46
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,620
Don't take this wrong... If I were you, I would get a qualified person to look at your car. Apparently your knowledge/experience is very limited and your heading towards doing some severe damage to your engine. You have not been able to follow along and perform simple tasks nor answer the most basic questions in this thread. Just my opinion.
March 19th, 2016, 02:07 PM
#48
1- What state are you in?
2- Pull your dip stick and look at the oil (and smell it too).
3- Is the electric choke hooked up to a ignition 12v source? if it's not the circuit will not disengage and you'll go for that magic carpet ride up to 40 mph without touching the peddle.
4- What is the vacuum reading at idle?
5- Do you have points or HEI?
6- Once we narrow this down a bit I'll make a video on how to check your timing and youtube a link to you, if it helps.
7- Grab your fan and spin it like you are on the Price IS Right and take note of: how much resistance you faced and how many times it spun
Last edited by 1BOSS83; March 19th, 2016 at 02:31 PM. Reason: more info
March 19th, 2016, 02:15 PM
#49
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
+2 with Eric & Eric.
My first checks would be to see if the belts were tight and that the fan is operating correctly (clutch). Then I would have drained some coolant out until it was just a little lower than the top of the transmission cooler inside the rad. I would have then run the car with the rad cap off for a good 15min or so until.... A) I seen a good flow through the tubes or... B) Not much coolant flow with the temp gauge climbing.
This test would then give me some indications as to what my cooling system is doing.
These guys have tried to give you many things to check, I wouldn't report back until you've checked all the indicators that began in this thread or as was mentioned, tow it into a shop before you blow your head gasket and perhaps ruin the engine.
Eric
My first checks would be to see if the belts were tight and that the fan is operating correctly (clutch). Then I would have drained some coolant out until it was just a little lower than the top of the transmission cooler inside the rad. I would have then run the car with the rad cap off for a good 15min or so until.... A) I seen a good flow through the tubes or... B) Not much coolant flow with the temp gauge climbing.
This test would then give me some indications as to what my cooling system is doing.
These guys have tried to give you many things to check, I wouldn't report back until you've checked all the indicators that began in this thread or as was mentioned, tow it into a shop before you blow your head gasket and perhaps ruin the engine.
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; March 19th, 2016 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Agree +2
March 19th, 2016, 05:04 PM
#50
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 25
Don't take this wrong... If I were you, I would get a qualified person to look at your car. Apparently your knowledge/experience is very limited and your heading towards doing some severe damage to your engine. You have not been able to follow along and perform simple tasks nor answer the most basic questions in this thread. Just my opinion.
maybe that would be good idea
March 19th, 2016, 05:09 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 25
Couple things.
1- What state are you in?
2- Pull your dip stick and look at the oil (and smell it too).
3- Is the electric choke hooked up to a ignition 12v source? if it's not the circuit will not disengage and you'll go for that magic carpet ride up to 40 mph without touching the peddle.
4- What is the vacuum reading at idle?
5- Do you have points or HEI?
6- Once we narrow this down a bit I'll make a video on how to check your timing and youtube a link to you, if it helps.
7- Grab your fan and spin it like you are on the Price IS Right and take note of: how much resistance you faced and how many times it spun
1- What state are you in?
2- Pull your dip stick and look at the oil (and smell it too).
3- Is the electric choke hooked up to a ignition 12v source? if it's not the circuit will not disengage and you'll go for that magic carpet ride up to 40 mph without touching the peddle.
4- What is the vacuum reading at idle?
5- Do you have points or HEI?
6- Once we narrow this down a bit I'll make a video on how to check your timing and youtube a link to you, if it helps.
7- Grab your fan and spin it like you are on the Price IS Right and take note of: how much resistance you faced and how many times it spun
i am in houston, tx.
i pulled stick,, oil is not milky or burnt
i have it hooked up to the 12v ignition source as well..
the fan is good
March 19th, 2016, 05:25 PM
#52
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 25
To everyone on here i would just like to thank you all.. for all the help and advice given.
I have followed all step and suggestions given....
I found the source to the problem, i have traced the problem back to the installation of the carb, there was vacuum leak due to lack of tension on the bolts to manifold... also the vacuum line from the value cover to carburetor was dry rotted and cracked causing another leak, come to find out that my value cover gasket screws where lose as well.. not quite sure how they got that way,but there tight now ..lol
also i performed the radiator flush added new coolant to radiator
"50/50 mix".
ive replaced all the vacuum lines and tighten bolts to carb
Safe to say she's running better and cooler now..
once again i thank you all for your support...
I have followed all step and suggestions given....
I found the source to the problem, i have traced the problem back to the installation of the carb, there was vacuum leak due to lack of tension on the bolts to manifold... also the vacuum line from the value cover to carburetor was dry rotted and cracked causing another leak, come to find out that my value cover gasket screws where lose as well.. not quite sure how they got that way,but there tight now ..lol
also i performed the radiator flush added new coolant to radiator
"50/50 mix".
ive replaced all the vacuum lines and tighten bolts to carb
Safe to say she's running better and cooler now..
once again i thank you all for your support...
March 19th, 2016, 07:58 PM
#57
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Posts: 25
March 20th, 2016, 05:38 AM
#59
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 8,952
Being down in Texas, you can probably do a 70-30 mix, water to coolant and throw in something like water wetter in as well. The 50/50 mix is strong enough for Saskatchewan winters, trust me, I know. Coolant doesn't remove heat as well as water but raises the boiling point and helps prevent corrosion.
March 20th, 2016, 10:11 AM
#60
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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