Recently bought a 68 Cutlass Supreme and am experiencing thick white smoke and burning smell coming from the passenger side under of the engine towards the back and also from under by the oil filter. I noticed that there has been a leak dripping from the oil filter. Once I start the car and the engine warms up, it begins to smoke. I noticed there is wet oil around the spark plug area on both sides of the engine. Could this be a leak cause from a valve cover gasket? Should I be worried? Is this something simple enough to handle on my own without ever doing it before or shall I take it in to be done by a mechanic?

 

Valve cover gasket....change it before the whole car goes up in smoke

 

The valve cover gaskets should be easy enough to do on your own on a 68.
Try to get the rubber gaskets and not the cork ones. They are reusable and seal much better. No sealant required, either. Just go easy on the bolts when tightening them - they won't need much torque to seal them.

 

Thanks for the replies, so it should be as easy as removing the bolts and removing/replacing the gasket and then tighten it back up? I do not have to clean anything up or need to coat it with silicon? If it is that straight forward I think I can handle it.

I noticed that they are available is different thickness. What would be my best choice? 3/32"? 11/64"?

 

You want to make sure the valve cover is clean before you install the gasket.

 

X 2 Ya can clean it with engine cleaner or brake cleaner. An old toothbrush works well to get in the area where the new gasket will go.

 

The drivers side looks easy, the passenger side seems like a bit of a challenge to get to because of all the hoses and A/C unit.

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You are right - pictures help. Better than on an 86 with all the emissions crap.
I would choose FEL-PRO Part # VS13403T Permadry plus rubber gaskets from Rockauto.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After.../Permadryplus/
They are 26 bucks a pair (vs 10 for cork), BUT, they should not leak again. NO sealants needed, they are reusable, and they have sleeves that limit bolt torque. Just check the flatness of your cover and clean both surfaces before assembling as mentioned above.

You might consider doing the left side yourself and have a shop do the other (about an hours labor), if you feel it is too challenging. The hard part is disassembly. Top AC bracket, heater hose (drain some coolant, change the hose if old), air cleaner, PCV hose, plug wires, heat riser... Take pictures as you go in case you forget how something goes back together.
A ratchet, about 18" worth of extensions, and a swivel / U-joint will be needed.
If you do the left side, you might just gain the confidence to do the right. Take your time, alocate a whole Saturday, and you should be fine!

 

That ain't no big deal.
Really.
A lot easier with the service manual and assembly manual, take a lot of pics and torque to specs, pics don't show torque readings though.
I just had mine all apart to replace my intake manifold turkey pan gasket, a jive turkey invented that thing, thus the name.
The rubber end seals split apart and squeezed out as to specs, dimpled with a center punch and RTV only now, and I knew better from about every other manifold I've done.

Check the oil return holes when you get the covers off, may be blocked and oil is building up and making it leak where it wouldn't or not as much normally. If there is a lot of sludge "mightaswell" take care of that and pull the intake to clean it up some in the valley too, get a turkey tray and RTV.
Timing chain good?
Mightaswell.

 

I ordered the Fel Pro Permadry gaskets that a lot of you recommend and it came with 10 bolts and 10 "load-spacers". I am not quite sure what the spacers are for? Will it be necessary when installing on a 350 Rocket? This is what it looks like

 

Load spacer are like washers. Its so when tighten down the bolt is putting pressure on a wider area. Just not the bolt hole. Helps seal up the cover and gasket to the head. So yes you need them. When you tighten them do it equally and don't over tighten.

 

I figured that it was to be used as a washer but I am not sure why they only gave 10 bolts and 10 spacers with 20 total holes?

 

I would call some up and see whats going on. Ask them why it only had 10.

 

On or about 1980 Olds went to using only five bolts per cover. So its no big deal. Felpro did'nt short you on the bolts and hold downs, thats the way they come. Use two on top and three on the bottom.

Option one.....You could buy another gasket set and get the bolts and hold downs and you'll have an extra gasket set....for the next time.

Option two....go to the hardware store, get somewhat matching bolts, or get 20 that do match.

Personally, I would toss the hold down spacers. Olds did'nt feel it was required as factory equipped....besides they are easy to lose or drop and that will make a guy use bad language...............and you will.

 

You can use a little silicon on the inside of the valve cover to help the gasket to stay in place when installing, as opposed to falling off. You will need to remove the A/C bracket in order to do the passenger side. Also, I recommend the hold down spacers, they distribute the torque much more evenly across the valve covers...it's a no lose situation to use them, it only helps the situation.

 

I was planning on using the original bolts that are on the current valve covers. Am I better off using 2 spacers on top and 3 on bottom or none at all? The FelPro Permadry are suppose to prevent over torquing.

 

You got bolts? Wow!
The gasket I got for my old Ford did not come with any hardware...

The gasket has little brass inserts, to allow you to torque the bolts normally without distorting the valve cover.
Your plan above sounds fine. The funky-looking washers can help but are not mandatory. If you get it together and develop a leak, you could always add the washers. If you add the washers, you might need longer bolts (the ones included). Only reason NOT to use them is for originality.

Before reassembly, place your valve covers on a flat surface and make sure they sit flat. Sometimes the area around the holes will be distorted from bolt tightening. Use a metal bar of some sort and a hammer to tap the area flat if needed.

 

I would use the new bolts & washers (5) on each side on the bottom of the valve cover as thats where they are most prone to leak and use the bolts you have for the top. I would also us a narrow piect of steal and a hammer on the bottom of the valve covers to make them flat again. If they have been off the car more then once chances are they are dimpled and that causes leaks.

 

I have a 1970 Rocket 350 with the same EXACT problem and I bought rubber valve cover gaskets.
I bought brand new MotorChrome valve covers , bolts, press downs, the works.
I put in all 20 new chromed bolts, and probably 8 press downs total.

I'm smoking faintly and I can smell burning oil hitting my headers.
So I'm probably going to try the RTV sealant between the gasket and covers first.

NewEngineChrome2.jpg

 

I have heard from wrench buddy's of mine that with chrome covers like your you may need to scuff the chrome surface to get a good seal

 

I have Edelbrock chrome valve covers...never scuffed them. Making sure the gasket is on straight, and that it is a rubber gasket, using hold down tabs, and tightening to proper specs are what make this work. This all assumes the heads and valve covers themselves are cleaned off well from any debris, old gaskets, etc.

 

I had the same problem with my 74 350!I must have changed the valve covers 10 times.Each time taking more care and time and thinking ok....this time for sure.Only to start the engine up and see pools of oil between the exhaust ports.Started out with rubber silicone on both sides still leaked.Changed to cork for a couple years it leaked best I could was slow it down and it didn't leak much but it still leaked!This with aluminium covers.I even cleaned them and the heads with carb cleaner.Also scuffed covers with 60 grit.Read my posts to thread "oil passage plugs (cam)". Also let me how you make out I'd hate to think of you doing what I did.
Railguy