the new sbo budget build that classicoldsmobile gave me
If you deck the block flush to the top of the piston, then the only thing you need to cc is the piston dish, gasket, and the head chamber. (and the ptw clearance if you want to get fancy)
Once you get that figured out, flow the heads so I can get a good idea on what cam you'll need.
No sense stuffing a huge cam in it, or having a ton of compression if the heads won't support it. It'll be a total waste.
No sense stuffing a huge cam in it, or having a ton of compression if the heads won't support it. It'll be a total waste.
Those flow numbers are very important to the equation, Ulysses. The difference between having 9.8:1 and having 10.5:1 with crappy small block heads is probably a whopping 5 horsepower. You might as well shoot for running pump gas if possible.
yes I want to be able to run 93 with no issues at 70cc's I would be at 9.91 to 1 compression. There is a few cams perfect for the build that are "off the shelf" . I messed witht he numbers and on the high side im at 10.56 to 1 range on the low side 9.91 to 1 compression that's with cc's in the 65 cc range to 70 cc range. I want to keep it under 10 to 1 . I do plan on measuring the ptw clearance . I plan on measuring everything. The pistons are 3 cc valve relived units. @ zero deck. I want to run it on the ragged edge but then i don't . Im very indecisive sometimes.
yes I want to be able to run 93 with no issues at 70cc's I would be at 9.91 to 1 compression. There is a few cams perfect for the build that are "off the shelf" . I messed witht he numbers and on the high side im at 10.56 to 1 range on the low side 9.91 to 1 compression that's with cc's in the 65 cc range to 70 cc range. I want to keep it under 10 to 1 . I do plan on measuring the ptw clearance . I plan on measuring everything. The pistons are 3 cc valve relived units. @ zero deck. I want to run it on the ragged edge but then i don't . Im very indecisive sometimes.
I feel his efforts won't be wasted. He is passionate about working on the heads. Oldsmobile needs more guys like him in my opinion. Willing to work hard, and not a know-it-all *** full of crap . He could have been a jerk and told you the heads would flow 350 cfm, but instead, he posted threads to help out fellow members on here.
I'm glad he is helping and his passion shows. I also appreciate your help. I have been meaning to ask I you would help me spec everything out once I came to that road. I really appreciate all the help and input. This build is totally diffrent from anything I have done on my car I usually work alone I'm not the easiest to work with I'm stubborn but eventually I crack. This is one of my flaws. Ultimately I will do what you guys think is right and will work.
I'm glad he is helping and his passion shows. I also appreciate your help. I have been meaning to ask I you would help me spec everything out once I came to that road. I really appreciate all the help and input. This build is totally diffrent from anything I have done on my car I usually work alone I'm not the easiest to work with I'm stubborn but eventually I crack. This is one of my flaws. Ultimately I will do what you guys think is right and will work.
I don't know who did it. Jim z11375ss hooked it up with the short block. From what I have seen the work looked very nice . It has arp rod bolts you can tell the rods have been recond. From what I have measured everything is very close. If jim had this done I'm sure he had a reputable shop do it and from what I saw it looks very nice down to the welds from balancing.
If Jim down south did it, he probably gave the work to Borowski. http://borowskirace.com/
Borowski builds some wicked demo derby fords, but I'm sure we'll have to mic up the olds work just to be certain. Borowski should be on the loose side clearance wise, which is a good thing.
Borowski builds some wicked demo derby fords, but I'm sure we'll have to mic up the olds work just to be certain. Borowski should be on the loose side clearance wise, which is a good thing.
The only things I have not measure are the pistons and cylinder walls. I don't have a bore gauge. Although a friend of mine has a brand new bore gauge and I can borrow my friends micrometers that I know are calibrated .
So I did some work today I guess lol. I trimmed the gaskets and tacked em down. Its going to get damn cold here tomorrow so I may have to wait to bolt the heads on and check for port alignment its going to get damn cold here in the next days so I have to wait or get someone to help me bring the block into the basement.


Last edited by coppercutlass; Jan 26, 2014 at 05:36 PM.
Looks good
So did I get the gaskets close? I hope you just used a tiny dab of silicone to tack them on. I would like to use a razor blade, to come in from the end, to cut the silicone to save the gaskets. Don't forget we are still going to do a clean up pass on the head surface. I don't think that more than .010" will be removed. That should not have too much of an affect on our port matching.
They where pretty close. I trimmed them close and sanded them by hand. Im thinking I would want to mill less possibly. I was thinking between .003 to .005 . I dabbed 2 small dots on the ends and to remove them I will probably use some piano wire or fishing line to cut the rtv.
Ok so earlier in the week I went out and got lunch with 67cutlassfreak and he hooked me up with some head gaskets to use to match up the intake. With a little help from my neighbor I got the block into the basement and started work today. Here is what I have.
Ok so here I gooped the blue machinist dye on. I did this 3 times before I was happy .

here it is on ., I snugged it just a bit .

Ok so here is port # 2 & 4

Here is 6 & 8

here is 1 & 3 upside down btw

Here is 5 & 7 also upside down.

Here is just a picture of my work quarters lol
Ok so here I gooped the blue machinist dye on. I did this 3 times before I was happy .

here it is on ., I snugged it just a bit .

Ok so here is port # 2 & 4

Here is 6 & 8

here is 1 & 3 upside down btw

Here is 5 & 7 also upside down.

Here is just a picture of my work quarters lol
So the alignment of the ports aint too bad the worst where 2 &4 so far . I was freaking out because I thought I might have to have the intake milled. So far it looks like im good lol. Let me know what ya think. I hope I did this right .
Last edited by coppercutlass; Jan 30, 2014 at 08:40 PM.
Yes, and no. The alignment looks pretty good at the ends, but the right thing to do is set your caliper to that head port heighth and make the whole intake runner that same size. not just the outlet mouth.
Big, to small, to big, in your runners isn't going to do much for you. but it's better than having a large obstruction on your port roof I suppose. Having the intake runner a little small, is better than having it too big and hitting a lip going into the head though.
Another reason i don't like torker manifolds, they're impossible to port. you get what you get on those rear kinked runners. For what you're doing, you will be fine though. It's just a hot lil small block.
Big, to small, to big, in your runners isn't going to do much for you. but it's better than having a large obstruction on your port roof I suppose. Having the intake runner a little small, is better than having it too big and hitting a lip going into the head though.
Another reason i don't like torker manifolds, they're impossible to port. you get what you get on those rear kinked runners. For what you're doing, you will be fine though. It's just a hot lil small block.
This is so dave can open up the intake as much as possible . He wanted to see the diffrence is port misalignment and how much to take off to match the roof I think. I didn't touch the intake with a grinder . I'm not sure I understood the first section of your comment right. The rest I did lol.
Ported the intake
Well I just got done porting your intake. I also heli-coiled the two carb mount bolt holes that were stripped out. I also elongated the bolt holes for you. I think it turned out real nice, but there was one casualty. My favorite die grinder took a dump. I've had this one for twenty years and it's only been rebuilt once.
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I forgot to tell you my friend Dane has the colander and everything we need to CC the chambers. I asked him about filing your rings and he said we can use his set up but it is time consuming. I think we are going to have to drill and tap the rocker pads for the roller rocker studs. Hopefully we can get together next Sunday. I'm going to port Jeromy's heads tomorrow.
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I forgot to tell you my friend Dane has the colander and everything we need to CC the chambers. I asked him about filing your rings and he said we can use his set up but it is time consuming. I think we are going to have to drill and tap the rocker pads for the roller rocker studs. Hopefully we can get together next Sunday. I'm going to port Jeromy's heads tomorrow.
I think im going to hold off on drilling and tapping the heads because I think the roller tip set up I have is the stock bolt size . If I decide to run that I want to be able to . Then if I decide to go to like some Harland sharps then yeah im gonna have to drill and tap em.
I thought I would follow up on the build. Well its put on hold yet again. Im just a camshaft away and a balancing from getting it done but that 300 bucks or so is going into my house project. Its going to be tough to get this done between the summer work and upkeep on the cutlass and whatever else comes up. For now focus is being put on getting the car track ready. I haven't hit the track in 2 years ! Looking to go opening day at my local track Byron dragway and see what the current set up does.
Any progress?
Hey Copper we haven't heard any news on this build recently, what's the word? Have you got those dyno numbers yet? Just kidding. I've got a stack of parts here for you. I know life gets in the way some times. I heard you were working on your house and the frame. Sure would be good to get that short block going. What exactly were you going to have done?
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Well house work should be done pretty soon. I have a frame lined up but coughing up 500 bucks is hard plus the fuel money to pick it up. I might just pull my frame and really look at the situation and what I really need to do. The 355 im working on Might take a little longer but it will be done one day lol. For now the current 355 runs great and I have a spare trans so im good there. Another 500 bucks and the 355 build would be done but stuff always comes up. Hopefully next month will be good to me and I can chip away at a few things on the car. I really want to get this frame squared away by mid summer. It would be awesome to finish the engine this year but that's life. We also gotta get some bodywork done on your car Dave . Id rather get that done before mine to be honest. I kinda wanna square away my car and re do a few things I couldn't do back when I was 17 and building my car the 1st time around lol. If I don't get out this summer im not worried . I knew in time I would have to re do some stuff just didn't expect it to be this year lol.
Last edited by coppercutlass; Apr 3, 2014 at 08:23 PM.
Don't know if you saw it, but I found a new Melling oil pump for you. You should do some research on what's involved with blue printing the pump. It would be great if we could get together this weekend. We could do the pour and get the distributor re-curved. If the weather is nice I might pull my car out off the jack stands, to sweep the garage.
Alright so we do have some updates. Friday I met up with 67cutlassfreak and he gave me my cylinder heads. He went above and beyond what I expected him to do and did a fantastic job. He even went through the hassle of wrapping them up so they would safely make it home. I seriously cant thank him enough for the job he did on the not to mention the time and money he put into them. I owe him big and pretty soon im going to re pay the favor by doing work to his 67 cutlass. He also hooked me up with a balancer , head bolts and some valve covers which he will get back once im done using. Here are some pics.



Not too shabby ehhhh.



Not too shabby ehhhh.
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