I rigged up an old distrubutor to allow me to prime the engine, the problem is I can hear slushing sound in the pan but no oil coming out of pushrods (running clockwise). anyone been here before? any ideas?

 

The pump turns counterclockwise.

 

As does the distributor.

Somebody with a Chevy's been telling you it's all GM again, haven't they?

 

Yes, actually a Chevy engine building book (should have checked my Olds manual).

...when I rotate counter clockwise my drill starts to smoke and no oil (although I don't run long), do I have a blockage or is this just oil pressure?

 

How big's your drill? It takes a decent amount of power to spin the pump (hence why a "high volume" pump steals a hp or two at high rpms).

- Eric

 

Craftsman Pro 14.4volt, it's an older unit
...I do see a small amount of oil pooling on one of the heads, certainly nothing obvious.

 

A good start anyway. Get a reversible plug-in drill, something with a little more oomph and keep going counter-clockwise. That oil pooling is a good sign!

 

Yeah, you need a big 1/2" drill for that - not a little battery-powered one.

- Eric

 

When we switched engines in the wagon seven, maybe eight years ago, went ahead and put an oil pump and timing gear in just to ward off future trouble. We used a nearly new 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill to prime the oiling system before installing the distributor, and it worked that Milwaukee hard. Can only imagine what it does to a cordless.

But dagnabit, within 4 revolutions we had oil out of all 16 pushrods! and that Milwaukee grunted...

And we were feeling so proud of ourselves til we tried to start it and after a few tries realised we'd put the distributor in 180 out.

 

Yes I'm going to pick up a good 1/2 inch drill tomorrow, I've always liked the Milwaukee brand...hopefully they're still made in the US. Thanks for all the help guys...great site!

 

I always put some moly cam lube grease on the pump rotors to help the pump prime itself. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet, extension, deep well socket taped together so nothing can fall into the engine. A few turns CCW of the ratchet has oil everywhere. No drill is needed.

 

turn engine by had as you prime when i did my 400 I had to turn it over to get good flow from all push rods.

 

If you already have a suitable drill, no sense in not using it. Hand-powered priming is for the stone age.

 

I rented a deWalt 1/2 and it seems to turn with little effort, I'm getting oil out of most pushrods but still dry on some. I ran it for a good 3-4 min...how long does it take to prime a new build? is there any adjustment issues, i checked the lifter preload on one pushrod and it was in spec, tightened down the remaining rockers. Note: I blocked of the rear Cam plug as I still haven't installed the new one (can't get it installed because of engine jig obstructions).

 

I'm getting steady drips on all push rods on right side head, missing oil at #1 exhaust, #5 and #7 on left head.

 

put a socket on the crank and turn it by hand while priming and the others should start to flow.

 

Yes I've been doing that as well, I'm noticing all my intake pushrods are starting to flow, 3 of my exhausts are still dry. I'm thinking I should have primed the lifters before installing them, I was told otherwise...it appears that this will take some time...I'm taking a break to let the drill cool down...only 3 lifters to go

 

Well in the final analysis patience is a virtue, my god it took over half an hour of continuous running to prime this beast...now bleeds oil

 

what next ?

 

I'm just getting the rocket all zipped up, I have a TH350 seal kit and a Cliff Ruggles custom HP kit in the mail...once I get the engine and trans complete I'll install into the rebuilt chassis then get the body in order. This is a complete build from scratch using parts from many sources Ebay/Kijiji etc...The intent was a complete a top to bottom learning experience from piston to hubcap (see pix...i know valve covers are reversed).

 

what type of oil are you using? you definitely want something made for flat tappet cams.
unless it is a roller cam. with all the priming and turning engine over by hand may have
just washed the assembly lube off the lifters. Im not trying to rain on your parade,
just trying help.

some of the better oils are Joe Gibbs, and Brad Penn.

jst my 2 1/2 cents

 

I used Shell 5W30, although I didn't turn the crank that much (very small increments) the most common breakin oil in these parts is Lucas. However I will take your advice...thanks.

 

I just found a Brad Penn dealer and they sell by the case (x12)...I guess I need to use up the case during the break in?

 

i ran rotella 15w40 with the lucas zinc additive some of those specialty oils can get expensive i always run rotella with the lucas zinc additive never had any issues

 

I filled her up with Brad Penn breakin oil, do I have to change this after breaking in the cam (20-30 min. @2k)?

 

right on brother. only thing I suggest is to vary the RPM up and down a few hundred during that time.

keep us posted ,wish you the best

 

i agree with red71 vary the rpms i like to brake mine in between 2k ans 2500 rpm for about 20 minutes and then i drain the oil add new oil and filter and let it idle for about half an hour always works good luck with the new engine

 

Have been working on the body and chassis, but managed to get the q jet built. Used Cliff Ruggles HP kit (+jets, metering rods, pull off, idle tubes and e choke), everything installed and adjusted, but need to finish the plumbing. Also started the TH350, new seals, waiting for the Transgo kit.