I have been on here previously asking for input on different things with this '68 350 engine. It is at a machine shop now, being checked out, clearances, and balancing. The '72 7a heads have been redone. The whole engine was supposed to be rebuilt, 24 years ago, but only ran for a while. It has Badger .030 pistons, stock rods and crank. Edelbrock performer cam, lifters and springs (supposedly). It has the high volume pump with the bolt on pickup, and a double roller chain. I am looking for smooth operation and the kind of reliability I have had with the '74 350 in the car now. With a bit more power. I want to be able to climb over mountains and operate with the AC on for hours. The car is a '74 Cutlass Supreme, with a TH 350, and 3.08 gears. Is there anything I should do to help with what I am looking for in this engine? I know this is different than the usual high power build a lot of people go for, but this is a cruiser. Very smooth, enjoyable car to drive. I have my '66 455 powered Pontiac for my fun weekend hot rod. Should I run a larger capacity oil pan? Forged pistons? The original engine went half a million miles. Jasper rebuilt it in 2013, but it has some leaks and cold start piston noise. I had them do it at the time because I didn't have time myself, as back then my Dad was in bad shape and passed away the following year.

 

The Edelbrock Performer Cam is exactly what you are looking for.

 

Nice

 

I rebuilt my ‘70 Supreme 350 in 1982 using Badger pistons and a 204* cam. I ran that engine for 20+ years, and I was not gentle with it.

 

Find out how far in the hole those pistons are. Your quench will probably suck as is with a Felpro replacement gasket set. I assume these are the 6cc pistons? Honestly for your plans, cast pistons are fine. I have used the Performer cam with high 7's to 9.6 to 1. You don't want 9.6 to 1, needed probably 93 to run right, it was pissy on 91 with shitty .065"+ quench. You really don't want a possible .080", might as well own an old Dodge.

 

I am looking to run it on 87 octane like I do now. I am getting the deck to piston checked as well as everything else. If it is too far down the hole, I will get new pistons. And I would rather walk down the street carrying a hubcap from an Olds or Pontiac than drive a Dodge, lol

 

Swap to a 3.23 or 3.42 gear since you mentioned mountains. Engine won't mind hanging out at 2500rpm. Long tubes and an RPM intake will also add some all around power. Badger pistons, the high compression or standard for 1974 at 21cc? You're looking at 7.85:1 compression with a standard replacement (.042" Compressed) gasket. If you still have the pistons and have an option, go to a flat top. Your heads are at ~72cc if not a hair larger so cut them down a bit to bring the compression up closer to 9:1.

Go to a stock volume pump and leave the pan. You said the old motor went half a million miles so if it was good enough for that, why change the oil system? Maybe shim the spring pump 1/4" for a little more pressure. Make sure, somehow, that the engine builder is actually measuring clearances, this ain't no smol blawck Chebby.

Good VR-1 oil and whatever brand filter and drive it.

 

I think what he already has will be fine. He could step to a replacement pan which are the baffled big block pans. I would leave the pistons as is, if they are 6cc and less than .020" below deck. Also find out what your current head CC is. He will still have over 9 to 1. With flat top pistons and early heads, he will be 9.6+ to 1, not ideal with his current cam.

 

Nice, adding some nimbleness to the heaviest Cutlass of all time.

 

Yes. This one is right at 4000 lbs.