coled18

Hello all.

I am installing my rocket 350 on my 72 cutlass after rebuilding it. Any tips or tricks on mating the motor to the trans so that I can bolt them together? I知 having trouble doing it with the motor mounts on and the transmission in and I知 not trying to take the transmission out.

Oldsmaniac

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated in the trans. Lower engine in place... Its one of those situations where you will learn as you go...

Vintage Chief

I generally remove the nuts/bolts holding the transmission to the transmission cross-member before I remove the engine (which is not absolutely necessary, but it's always the way I do it). Then, when dropping the engine back in I can place a floor jack under the transmission to gain some wiggle room when mating the engine to the trans. What really works great is another warm body under the car assisting.

RetroRanger

How many clicks on the TC. 2 or 3?

if the TC is in for sure its just a juggling jiggling act until it clicks. A long pry bar or two an$ a helper makes it easier.

Sugar Bear

The transmission bell housing and the block must mate completely flush without bolts. If they do not, the torque converter isn't seated in the front transmission pump. Do not use bolts to pull/force the transmission and engine together as it will break the front transmission pump. The two should mate together and then the converter is pulled forward to the flexplate approximately 3/8".

It may be easiest to leave the mounts off the engine until you get things lined up if you are having difficulty. Stay with it you'll get it.

Good luck!!!

joe_padavano

A couple of other tricks.

Make sure the trans is jacked up until it is nearly touching the underside of the floorpan. This keeps the engine high enough to clear the crossmember.

As noted, be sure the torque converter is seated all the way. Rule of thumb, if you think it's all the way in, it probably isn't. The converter should be so far back in the bellhousing that you can't easily fit your finger between the converter and the inside of the bell.

Apply anti-sieze to the two dowel pins on the block and to the pilot of the converter where it sits in the end of the crank.

Use an engine tilter.

I usually get one side started (lowest bolt on that side) then work on the other side. You'll frequently need to jockey the engine around to get things lined up.