Ignition module died again...
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 639
From: N. Central Texas
You don't need that clip. It's an assembly convenience item.
Use a magnetic parts fetcher. Stick the drive shaft on the end of the magnet, lean over the car with a flashlight and feed the shaft down through the hole. Feed it down straight and it'll go right into the oil pump. Just make sure it is fitted into the pump (won't go down any further) before pushing sideways on the magnet to release.
Done it dozens of times.
.
Use a magnetic parts fetcher. Stick the drive shaft on the end of the magnet, lean over the car with a flashlight and feed the shaft down through the hole. Feed it down straight and it'll go right into the oil pump. Just make sure it is fitted into the pump (won't go down any further) before pushing sideways on the magnet to release.
Done it dozens of times.
.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,434
From: Chicago
I've laid on the fender and reinstalled the hex drive shaft with needle nose pliers as well... or just done it by hand and gotten lucky at the track. Had to do it on three engines now, two of them had the clip installed correctly, but the shaft would get stuck in the distributor and come out when the distributor was pulled. The magnet trick should work, it's harder than you think to drop it all the way down into the pan.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 639
From: N. Central Texas
She lives again!
I used my new Christmas present (magnetic pickup tool with a light) and got the oil shaft back into place, dropped the distributor back in and after a few turns she fired up. I had the timing set to 14* (vacuum adv unplugged) took her out for a spin, checked the timing again and it advanced to about 17*. I think that I just need to tighten up the hold down a little more. No pinging, idles well, pretty much back to where she was (before the timing slipped up to 17*) Now for the next part...
I have the initial timing set to 14*, when I rev the engine to about 2000 RPM and advance the timing using the light to around 18* places the mark back to 14*, so, what should my total timing be?
Vacuum advance part number shows as 18*
Springs/weights are not bone stock either.
I have the initial timing set to 14*, when I rev the engine to about 2000 RPM and advance the timing using the light to around 18* places the mark back to 14*, so, what should my total timing be?
Vacuum advance part number shows as 18*
Springs/weights are not bone stock either.
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,636
From: Land of Taxes
Typical street Olds 400/455/350s like to see something like 10*,12* to 14* base timing. The vacuum advance canister should bring in another 8-12 degrees for approximately 20-22-24* degrees at hot idle. The rest all in by 27-3000 RPMs
The vac can is plugged into full time manifold vacuum. The carb should be dialed in at the same time(Q-Jet...float, jets n rods air-valve cam and spring setting etc..). A vacuum gauge, set-back timing light and spark plug/exhaust tip readings should be part of your super tuning bag-o-trix.
This is a ball park. Dynamics to these rules are: elevation, ambient temp, octane, compression, cam profile, heads, exhaust, gears, driving style etc...etc...
I have dialed in many Olds engines and the above guideline spec was generally always successful.
My current setup is an 11.5:1 comp, 70 W30 grind cam 400G, TCI TH400 semi-manual with a 2800 stall converter, 308 gears, 2.5" mandrel bent H pipe exhaust system, stock 69 WZ manifolds, New DUI 52KV HEI distributor curved to bring the centrifugal all-in at 2800. Autolite plugs @ .040" with the electrodes snipped back, Taylor spiral core wires...This is on 93 Octane. Occasionally Ill mix the 93 with few gallons 100 Octane out of the pump or add 104, just for hot days which is where Ill occasionally see some preignition. The 100 takes care of it verses backing down timing. Smoother acceleration too on the 100/104. But I run mostly 91-93 Ethanol free with no to very little knock. Its right on the bitter edge. Hot humid days will induce slight knock under full load at WOT.
The vac can is plugged into full time manifold vacuum. The carb should be dialed in at the same time(Q-Jet...float, jets n rods air-valve cam and spring setting etc..). A vacuum gauge, set-back timing light and spark plug/exhaust tip readings should be part of your super tuning bag-o-trix.
This is a ball park. Dynamics to these rules are: elevation, ambient temp, octane, compression, cam profile, heads, exhaust, gears, driving style etc...etc...
I have dialed in many Olds engines and the above guideline spec was generally always successful.
My current setup is an 11.5:1 comp, 70 W30 grind cam 400G, TCI TH400 semi-manual with a 2800 stall converter, 308 gears, 2.5" mandrel bent H pipe exhaust system, stock 69 WZ manifolds, New DUI 52KV HEI distributor curved to bring the centrifugal all-in at 2800. Autolite plugs @ .040" with the electrodes snipped back, Taylor spiral core wires...This is on 93 Octane. Occasionally Ill mix the 93 with few gallons 100 Octane out of the pump or add 104, just for hot days which is where Ill occasionally see some preignition. The 100 takes care of it verses backing down timing. Smoother acceleration too on the 100/104. But I run mostly 91-93 Ethanol free with no to very little knock. Its right on the bitter edge. Hot humid days will induce slight knock under full load at WOT.
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