Help me pick a motor

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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #1  
mauls's Avatar
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Green Horn
 
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Help me pick a motor

I'm torn between deciding to go with an oldsmobile 403 or a 350 rocket.

Both motors need work, and cost about the same price. I want to replace the 260 that is currently in my oversize car.

Here is the 350
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/1721543940.html

Here is the 403
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/1754065991.html

I guess things that help me decide or which is the better deal for the $. Which is more reliable and cheaper/easier to build
Which is easier to find parts for?

I'm leaning towards the 403, but I don't want to make the wrong decision.

Thanks
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Well they both need to be torn down and gone through...new parts or not. You just don't know what was or wasn't done to the 403.

I think I'd go for the 350, but still look for some early heads like I posted in the other thread. Again because it will bump the compression up. The #8 heads have the large chamber (78cc) and small dish pistons so it will respond well to the early heads. Now if you need new pistons then you can stick with the heads that are on it and modify your compression with pistons instead.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Green Horn
 
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Thanks Randy.

When you say earlier 350 heads, that years specifically?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:08 PM
  #4  
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I would go with the 350 if it is more complete. Why buy an engine without good heads, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, oil pan, valve covers etc.?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #5  
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Between the two i would go with the 350. This engine was will most likely be a low compression smog engine can be checked to see if it has the 8 stamped on the heads and you may wish to replace the heads at a later date to some with higher compression. the 403 had Siamese cylinders and had a problem with over heating between the two also was not the strongest on the bottom end. both would work but the 350 is the easier one to rebuild and has a larger knowledge base as to those who have had them and worked on them.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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68-72 on the heads. 5,6,7,7A
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #7  
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Think the smog heads were used 73-75 number 8 heads
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #8  
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Green Horn
 
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Thanks for the reply guys, I just found a complete 350 engine and t-350 trans set up out of a 1969 cutlass, asking $400. Might go that route
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:22 PM
  #9  
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What trans is in there now?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 72 cutlass455
Think the smog heads were used 73-75 number 8 heads
It was actually 73-76. They changed them in 77 when they revamped the 350 with the windowed mains and ½" head bolts.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:25 PM
  #11  
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Green Horn
 
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Originally Posted by svnt442
What trans is in there now?
That was a later question I was going to ask. The dealership had very little information about this car, they were not sure on what the transmission or what the motor was in this car. Originally the car had a 330 in it, but was replaced somewhere down the road. I have no clue as if the transmission was replaced or not.

Is there any type of identification number on the transmission?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:43 PM
  #12  
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Is it a 3 speed or a 2 speed?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #13  
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Green Horn
 
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Originally Posted by svnt442
Is it a 3 speed or a 2 speed?
Haven't driven it more than from the trailer to the driveway. I'm currently getting the carb rebuilt. Should get it back early next week, so I will drive it around and figure it out
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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Well move the shifter and count the clicks from park. 4 is a 2 speed and 5 is a 3 speed.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #15  
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this is not my car lol
 
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7a heads have hardened valve seats and allow you to run unleaded with no worries about valve seat wear and eventual valve recession.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #16  
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My vote is the 350. The deal with the trans sounds decent. I agree you should go thru it & make some intelligent upgrades. The 403 is a strong engine but a weak bottom end. You can only get one overbore on it before the cylinder walls become too thin. Throw some good light weight 10:1 pistons in it, have it ballanced, put one of Jim's Halo girdles on it. Then choose the right cam for your application and concentrate on the heads, intake, and carb matched setup. You might want to look into getting a Holley Street Dominator intake for it. I've heard good things about them. I have one I could sell you but I personally haven't tried it. If you contact Jim here he can give you advise on a cam or headwork. He's a good guy & can help you.
http://www.jsmachineoldsmobile.com/home.html
Here's a chart with SB head specs that should help you in your search.
001.jpg
The smaller combustion chamber will yield higher compression ratios but you can also mill the heads. Some engine builders might debate with you about whether or not hardened seats are really necessary. I'm not going to comment but for what it costs to have new seats installed you could probably buy ten cases of lead additive.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by svnt442
Well move the shifter and count the clicks from park. 4 is a 2 speed and 5 is a 3 speed.
It moved 4 times so it is a 2 speed, will the tranny included with that 350 work?
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:22 PM
  #18  
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From what I have seen in the last week the 350 should bolt up in place of the Jetaway you have so that shouldn't be an issue. You'll just need to run a cable for the kickdown to the carb or the pedal.
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #19  
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Either way you go, you are going to want heads. I say go with the new parts and the "free" engine stand with the 403. OF COURSE take it apart and look at what is going on, but if the seller is being honest, you are going to come out ahead.

On the subject of overbore: the 403 is standard, if it looks like it will hold at that you have another build in the motor. (Maybe 2 if you're lucky) and that should be lots o'miles and smiles from now.

My uncle had a 403 in a regal, so I am a little biased. I am building one right now. Most parts interchange with the 350.

Good luck making a choice. Either way you'll end up way ahead of the 260. Lot's of ways to go here.

sb
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:54 AM
  #20  
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This is another good opportunity for a raffle ...whomever guesses which engine you get goes to Vegas...
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 05:59 AM
  #21  
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I'd go with the 350/350 setup if it's in good shape. 1969 should have decent pistons in it.
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:34 PM
  #22  
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Green Horn
 
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Originally Posted by svnt442
Well move the shifter and count the clicks from park. 4 is a 2 speed and 5 is a 3 speed.

well svnt you owe me a new tranny!!! (JK)

I walked in the garage today to find a pool of transmission fluid on the ground
all i did was go from park to L then back

o well, guess that 350, with the T-350 is what i'm getting especially now
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #23  
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If you just want a cruiser, both will do fine.
Which one is more complete?
Which one needs more work?
How much power do you want to make?
The only REAL difference between the two is the bore size.
The 403 will give you an easy 40-50 more hp (due to displacement), do you really need or want it?
The 403 will be perfectly fine to around 400hp at the crank, if there is no detonation.
Jim
Old Jun 12, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #24  
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I wonder what happened to cause that? How odd.
Old Jun 14, 2010 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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Green Horn
 
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Originally Posted by svnt442
I wonder what happened to cause that? How odd.
Just how my luck goes

I'm definitely going to pick up that 350 motor and trans combo next weekend, and rebuild the motor.
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #26  
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Green Horn
 
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Well Its finally official.. Saturday I'm going to pick up a 1966 425 olds motor. It was rebuilt 5 years ago but was never started, rebuilt with all new parts,cam, lifters heades redone etc. comes with eldabrock performer intake. It has been stiting for a while.

forsaleitems006.jpg

Old Jun 23, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #27  
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While I do not like things that have been parked and not kept fresh. I do like the 425. Please let us know how things turn out.
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #28  
mauls's Avatar
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Green Horn
 
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I plan on tearing into it regardless. Replacing gaskets, re-lube, etc

Don't plan on dropping it for a few months.
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #29  
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Nice use of a beer can to keep the motor from rocking in the back of the truck...
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 08:27 AM
  #30  
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Great find!
I would check a few things, and change a few things-IF it were me.
Check:
bearing clearances
Oil pump, mods to it.
ring gaps
Compression ratio (what pistons were used)
Camshaft???
Valve size
Correct valve stem tip height!!!!!
Check for correct plugs in oil galleys...

Change?
I'd clean it.
Sell the carb and valve covers, use your 260 valve covers (!), and a q-jet.
Good luck, you're going to love this engine!!!
Jim
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #31  
mauls's Avatar
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Green Horn
 
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From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by Warhead
Great find!
I would check a few things, and change a few things-IF it were me.
Check:
bearing clearances
Oil pump, mods to it.
ring gaps
Compression ratio (what pistons were used)
Camshaft???
Valve size
Correct valve stem tip height!!!!!
Check for correct plugs in oil galleys...

Change?
I'd clean it.
Sell the carb and valve covers, use your 260 valve covers (!), and a q-jet.
Good luck, you're going to love this engine!!!
Jim
Thanks for the tips Jim I will go over it very carefully, with a buddy of mine.

My 260 valve covers are blue, What was the factory color of a 1965 425 block and heads and valve covers? I'd like to paint it back to stock
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:38 PM
  #32  
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It should be a red color, but I don't know the exact color red. Some of the guys are really up on the stock engine colors.
Old Jun 25, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #33  
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Tear it apart,so you know exactly what you have.Great find,& great engine to build.
Old Jun 25, 2010 | 05:28 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Nice use of a beer can to keep the motor from rocking in the back of the truck...

I've always gone with the old tire method myself
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