GP Sorensen Carb Rebuild kit Questions
November 30th, 2012, 11:37 AM
#1
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Location: Lansing, MI
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GP Sorensen Carb Rebuild kit Questions
Just picked up my Carb rebuild kit from The Zone. Does anyone have a review for this kit? Or any tips for me on my rebuild? I've never done a carb rebuild before but I'd say I'm fairly mechanically inclined.
Let me know! Thanks
-R.J.
Let me know! Thanks
-R.J.
December 2nd, 2012, 04:21 PM
#2
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Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 444
GP Sorensen is (or was) a division of Standard Motor Products. Standard makes the 'Jiffy Kits' which seem to work well, I have not had any problems using them as long as the ethanol mix in fuels is not much over the 10% mark. After this, one may get some swelling of the accelerator pump piston. Note some kits use leather pistons. Also note there has been much consolidation of the kits over the years, so you get quite a few gaskets in the kits, be very careful to match your old gaskets exactly with new ones in the kit. The extra gaskets are nice to keep, you never know when somebody else may need one too. The instructions are just OK, they do have float level specs in most kits, but the shop manual may be nice to have if you are not too familiar with the carburetor you are working on. Regards, Howie.
December 3rd, 2012, 12:39 PM
#3
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IMO, the parts store kits are all basically the same and get the job done.
When you're used to the carb and want to start tweaking things, then look at quadrajetparts.com and Ruggle's website (www.cliffshighperformance.com)
When you're used to the carb and want to start tweaking things, then look at quadrajetparts.com and Ruggle's website (www.cliffshighperformance.com)
December 3rd, 2012, 02:59 PM
#5
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since you're going in, you'll want to get a new float too. i assume your float is the nitrophyll type.
these days, all the parts in those kits are made by one company. leather pump seals are generally for carbs. like the 4G-series.
bill
these days, all the parts in those kits are made by one company. leather pump seals are generally for carbs. like the 4G-series.
bill
December 3rd, 2012, 03:58 PM
#6
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I strongly recommend getting the Doug Roe and/or Cliff Ruggles reference books. They help quite a lot.
Keep track of *everything* as there are a ton of small parts and certain areas have to go back together quite precisely. There are lots of little tips and tricks to make things easier, and the books have most of that.
Don't forget about the connector pipe for the choke, the checkball under the accelerator pump pin and the power piston spring. The seal on the choke housing shaft is easy to forget, too. The rest of the parts are relatively large and obvious. You will *not* use all the parts in the kit, but you have to make sure to only leave out the stuff you don't need!
Don't remove any of the air flaps. Get at least one gallon of Chem Dip - it's much cheaper at Wal Mart than the parts stores. If the carb is really dirty, then may need two gallons and soak the body of the carb in a bucket. Never use that bucket for anything else. Get really thick chem-safe gloves (not dish washing gloves!) as this stuff is harsh! Also a can (or three) of carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning out all the passages. Wear eye protection when blowing this stuff around, too.
Keep track of *everything* as there are a ton of small parts and certain areas have to go back together quite precisely. There are lots of little tips and tricks to make things easier, and the books have most of that.
Don't forget about the connector pipe for the choke, the checkball under the accelerator pump pin and the power piston spring. The seal on the choke housing shaft is easy to forget, too. The rest of the parts are relatively large and obvious. You will *not* use all the parts in the kit, but you have to make sure to only leave out the stuff you don't need!
Don't remove any of the air flaps. Get at least one gallon of Chem Dip - it's much cheaper at Wal Mart than the parts stores. If the carb is really dirty, then may need two gallons and soak the body of the carb in a bucket. Never use that bucket for anything else. Get really thick chem-safe gloves (not dish washing gloves!) as this stuff is harsh! Also a can (or three) of carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning out all the passages. Wear eye protection when blowing this stuff around, too.
December 3rd, 2012, 04:31 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 131
Float
Thanks for pointing that out! I completely forgot about gettin a new float. I thought it would be in the kit but its not. Thanks! You saved me some frustration from starting the project and having to run out and wait on an ordered part!
-R.J.
December 3rd, 2012, 04:33 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 131
I strongly recommend getting the Doug Roe and/or Cliff Ruggles reference books. They help quite a lot.
Keep track of *everything* as there are a ton of small parts and certain areas have to go back together quite precisely. There are lots of little tips and tricks to make things easier, and the books have most of that.
Don't forget about the connector pipe for the choke, the checkball under the accelerator pump pin and the power piston spring. The seal on the choke housing shaft is easy to forget, too. The rest of the parts are relatively large and obvious. You will *not* use all the parts in the kit, but you have to make sure to only leave out the stuff you don't need!
Don't remove any of the air flaps. Get at least one gallon of Chem Dip - it's much cheaper at Wal Mart than the parts stores. If the carb is really dirty, then may need two gallons and soak the body of the carb in a bucket. Never use that bucket for anything else. Get really thick chem-safe gloves (not dish washing gloves!) as this stuff is harsh! Also a can (or three) of carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning out all the passages. Wear eye protection when blowing this stuff around, too.
Keep track of *everything* as there are a ton of small parts and certain areas have to go back together quite precisely. There are lots of little tips and tricks to make things easier, and the books have most of that.
Don't forget about the connector pipe for the choke, the checkball under the accelerator pump pin and the power piston spring. The seal on the choke housing shaft is easy to forget, too. The rest of the parts are relatively large and obvious. You will *not* use all the parts in the kit, but you have to make sure to only leave out the stuff you don't need!
Don't remove any of the air flaps. Get at least one gallon of Chem Dip - it's much cheaper at Wal Mart than the parts stores. If the carb is really dirty, then may need two gallons and soak the body of the carb in a bucket. Never use that bucket for anything else. Get really thick chem-safe gloves (not dish washing gloves!) as this stuff is harsh! Also a can (or three) of carb cleaner and compressed air for cleaning out all the passages. Wear eye protection when blowing this stuff around, too.
Thanks for the tip on the chem dip, I probably would have ended up getting it from the Zone. I need to order a new float so I may order one of those manuals you suggested when I order that. I'm hoping I can get this project done over one weekend.
Thanks for the advice!
-R.J.
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