Hi there,

I want to remove the RS exhaust manifold of my Cutlass Salon 350 1975.
Do you have some "Tip & Warnings" for me, because it seems to be a hell of job ( bolts that can break, no space to work etc ...)
I hope you can give this newbie some advise.

Grtz from the Netherlands.

Wally

 

I'm not one of the true "experts" here, but in my experience, the most important thing is to use lots of penetrating oil (I like KROIL, but there are others, and it has been suggested that 50% ATF and 50% Acetone is the best of all) - put it on a number of times over several days, and strike the bolts sharply with a hammer a few times when you oil them as well, to help open up microscopic spaces for the oil to wick into. You can actually reach the backs of the bolts (to oil them) on all of the holes except for the center one, I believe.

All of that being said, it has been my experience that these bolts tend to come out surprisingly easily, so I wouldn't be too afraid. The center bolt hole seems to be the weak point, with fairly thin walls, and can crack - if it isn't cooperating, it may help to gently heat the area around the threads to expand it, then try again.

Why do you need to remove it? If it's a bad gasket, you may be able to slip the new one in without removing the manifold from the exhaust pipe.

- Eric

 

Its best to use a 6 point socket only. At times the 9/16 socket wont work because the heads of the bolts have rusted away to a smaller hex. If this happens a 14 MM socket sometimes works. If metal locking tabs are still there you need to bend em up and off of the bolt heads. Usually better done from below with a long screwdriver and hammer. Flange bolts are most troublesome and dont be surprised if they break.

 

Tips?
The most important thing to remember is lefty-loosy righty-tighty.
Bolts always come out easier if the engine is warm.
PB Blaster penetrating oil is the best, and locally made I might add.


I hated my English Racer bike, no type socket or wrench on Earth fit anything and all the nuts and bolts were threaded backwards. I used an old monkey wrench and a claw hammer to work on it.
What do they say to remember across the pond, not left-loosy righty-tighty?

 

Thanks !!!

Some usefull tips, thanks for that. But still one "dumm" question:
Do I've to jack up the car or is it easier to work from above. ( I hope you understand my Dutch to English...)

Wally

 

I generally just work from above. You might have to lift the car a bit to remove the exhaust manifold from the down pipe though. Good luck.

 

I'd say manifold-to-engine from above, but pipe-to-manifold from below (as others have said - good luck with those pipe flange nuts!).

- Eric

 

A thing we use to do on the farm when it came to rusted bolts was mixed used oil from the tractors with diesel fuel. That stuff worked wonders

 

I found that the bolts where so tight or rusted on mine that I used a torch to heat up surrounding area till it just started to glow a little and they screwed out like melted butter. I've used this method for 30 years on cars that the toe of the bolt is exposed like on an Olds or the worst old FE Fords.

 

Thanks
I think I try this, but what about the danger for burning my car. The bolts are are already soaked a bit in penetrating oil, so...?!
JAG1886 can you give me some advise for doing this savely

Wally

 

Get everything out of the way (A/C or what ever) so you can get to the head and then clean the area real well before starting, I just used a rag with carb cleaner and a vacaum cleaner. My engine was really nasty from a leaking valve cover gasket that had leaking, obviously for years. All the fire stays on top of the head so it's pretty easy to see whats going on. Make certain you remove the spark plugs. I use one old spark plug in the hole closes to where I'm working just so nothing goes down the hole. Just make certain you have a soaking wet shop rag close but just in case and know where your extinguisher is in an emergency. Last but not least make certain your gas line is no where in the vicinity.

 

Also NEVER NEVER use a torch near a surface where the interior is on the opposite side (such as the firewall). You can put a lot of heat into the interior materials on the other side without realizing it (like, if you're trying to burn a motor mount that's NEAR the firewall), then when it suddenly reaches it ignition temperature, the area goes on fire all at once and there is NOTHING you can do to put it out.

I worked in a junkyard as a kid and did this a couple of times without intending to (though it WAS kinda fun ). Much better to learn about this on a car that's going to the crusher than on your restored antique.

- Eric