BlueBlock350

I took my cutlass to the shop to get it looked at so that i know what to fix and I was told that I have an exhaust leak right before the cat. I have a '77 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, I was wondering how much do you think that will cost me to get fixed? Also, I was told that my carburetor needs to be adjusted, is this hard to do it myself? The Shop said they could do it but it would take them an hour how long does it usually take?

Olds64

Tell the shop that they are jokers. You can easil tune the carburetor if you are handy with a wrench. If you are having trouble with your idle, or your car running then you should go ahead and do a tune up.

BTW, what state are you in? If my exhaust was leaking right before the catalytic converter I would just take it to an exhaust shop and have them put generic turbo mufflers on it and get rid of the catalytic converter. In Oklahoma they don't do an inspection or emissions test.

BlueBlock350

Im in Maryland they do emissions tests. Thanks for the advice though, about the carb, I'm getting it out of the shop tomorrow and adjusting it myself. How hard is it to replace a intake manifold gasket on a olds 350

BILL DEMMER

can't help you with the exhaust question, but what needs to be "adjusted" on the carb? are you having running issues?


bill

BlueBlock350

I called the shop up today (tuesday) and now I am told the following: "You have oil leaks everywhere so your engine's going to need all new seals, and your carb is going to need a complete overhaul." Am I right by thinking that getting new seals isn't that big of a job? I figure if its oil leaks then I probably need new valve cover gaskets intake gaskets and oil pan gaskets, that doesn't seem so hard to do or is it? Again I have a 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with a 350 and 4barrel carb.

BILL DEMMER

hmm, the carb went from "needing adjustment(s)" to a full rebuild?

unless you're losing a lot of oil-it sounds like they are "stroking you" for every penny you have.

at the very least i would get a second opinion. if you are mechanically inclined and have a decent assortment of tools, you could do most of it yourself.



bill

Pfiffle

I agree. Get a second opinion. As for the exhaust, if it's not going to be a daily driver, look into QQ plates. In Jersey if you register the car as a antique, there's no emissions testing. Maryland might have something similar. Then you can run true duals. All you need is a double hump crossmember. You can find one for $50-$100. Insurance will be MUCH cheaper also with Historic plates. What type of oil loss are you talking about? Is there a big puddle after parking it for the night? Valve covers gaskets are not hard to do, Oil pan is a step up in difficulty and intake is a few degrees harder. there are places you can ship your "core" carb and they will rebuild it for $250 or a little more. Taking a carb off and replacing it with an exact model is not that hard either, just get some tags, or I use wire markers and mark your hoses and such. Take some pictures of the carb also for reference. We'll walk you through this Blueblock. By the way, I have a 1976 Cutlass S, 350 4 barrel.
Tom

BlueBlock350

thanks thats good.

BlueBlock350

There motor is smoking (due to leaking oil) I was told the oil was leaking from the manifold, and valve covers, and when I went to change the oil a few months ago there was oil on the oil pan, so am right at assessing the fact that I need new gaskets for the pan, manifold, and valve covers? I believe that the carb needs to be rebuilt, because my idle is crappy, but the motor runs, and from what a guy at a restoration shop told me today said, "if it aint broke, don't fix it"

Olds64

That shop definitely sound like they are trying to get money from you. Even if your car leaks oil, it might not be that bad. If your car billows white smoke for a moment after you start it that is probably valve guide seals. If it billows blue smoke all the time that is worn rings. Black smoke is a sign of a misadjusted carburetor. Of course, that is just a general rule of thumb. Give us more info and we will help.

Oldsguy

Oil on the pan could be from a timing cover gasket leaking or the front pan seal leaking or the dip stick tube being cracked and leaking. Don't get TOOK by an unscrupulous business.

BlueBlock350

There is black smoking coming out of the exhaust, and I was told that it was carbon build up and that I needed an induction service. I haven't seen any white or blue smoke, but the engine itself smokes due to oil leaks, where is the timing cover, and front pan located? Is the timing cover over the camshaft and timing chain? How difficult is this to do with the engine in the car as opposed to on an engine stand?

Yeah I think I will just reseal everything and get the carb rebuilt, Because other than that the engine runs fine.

Oldsguy

You should see oil smudge/debris around the front lower edge of the engine and the oil pan. Ideally, you should put the front on jack stands and crawl up under there and inspect it thouroghly. If you find an oily mess, or a dry, dirty, clumped up build up of dirt it may indicate an old oil leak that has attracted a lot of dust and dirt. Wear eye protection, use a good strong light, a good clean rag, and perhaps a scraping tool. A visual inspection should show you the area the oil is leaking from. If a recent leak it should still be wet. The timing chain cover is where you mentioned, the front of the pan is just below that but the crossover of the frame should impede your inspection of most of it except perhaps the front edge which is just behind the timing cover at the bottom of the engine in the front. Yes, you can change the gasket while the engine is still in the car but it is a PITA. You probably cannot change the oil pan gasket unless you loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up enough to clear the oil pump to take the pan off.

tonycpe

The first thing you need to do is find a new shop.

Lady72nRob71

>>but the engine itself smokes due to oil leaks

My '86 does this after starting after being left sitting for a long time. It is from oil leaking from the valve covers onto the exhaust manifolds.
The valve cover seals are somewhat easy to change. Use a good quality gasket so you do not have to do it again soon.

After changing those, if it still leaves more than a couple drops of oil on the ground per day, I would put a larger priority on other gaskets; otherwise I would do it at leisure as you get time.

The black smoke indicated a carb rebuild ("induction service") may be in order. Rubber parts inside deteriorate with age. Carb kits are available and rebuilding your own is possible if you have a service manual, good reading and comprehensive skills, good mechanical reasoning, and perhaps a camera, to take pictures as you pull it apart (in case you forget where something goes.) The 78 carb is all mechanical, so it should not be too difficult. Doing the adjustments at the end will be a little time consuming the first time, but with the manual and patience, you can do it.

BlueBlock350

thanks for the advice guys. One more thing though, is there any place that I can send my Q-Jet to where they can rebuild it for me? Because a lot of the places around here have told me, "if it's olds we don't touch it", one guy even told me I would do better if I had a chevy engine and parts. To me thats a bunch of bull.

Lady72nRob71

Blue Block,

Try looking at this thread...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...arburetor.html

Sounds as if some list members got theirs rebuilt by a guy in Arkansas for only 200 bucks, which is good in my opinion. Their contact info is in the post. I would give the guy a call...

Year one will do it for 475, but that is way too much, even though they replate the thing.

Pfiffle

I've had good luck with Carbsonly from California.

88 coupe

Sparky's carbs advertises in JWO (Journey With Olds) and is well known, in the Olds community.

Norm

BlueBlock350

what about summit racing? they sale refurbs.

88 coupe

Done on an assembly line. Cleaned and reassembled, with new gaskets, without regard for any existing problem. Sale price includes an allowance for 15% to be returned for exchange.

No substitute for having a carb done right, by someone who actually knows what they are doing.

Norm