Engine Temp
Engine Temp
I have an Oldsmobile 374 stroker(comp 9:7.1) that I just installed I also added a temp gauge model Intellitronix LED Digital Gauges M9113W with Intellitronix Gauge Sending Units S801, I have a 4 core radiator and this fan https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1969/co.../fans/CH25854/. Gas in car is 93.
My engine builder said it shouldn't go over 190 temp which on the first day it stayed at around 185(50 miles highway most of the time). Then the next day it was a little hotter and driving around the city it got up to about 200(20 miles in light to light stop and go traffic). I shut it down and went to eat came out started it drove home on the high way and when I got home it was at 188.
Should I be worried about the temps or could it just be the send unit or gauge?
Thank You
Doomah
My engine builder said it shouldn't go over 190 temp which on the first day it stayed at around 185(50 miles highway most of the time). Then the next day it was a little hotter and driving around the city it got up to about 200(20 miles in light to light stop and go traffic). I shut it down and went to eat came out started it drove home on the high way and when I got home it was at 188.
Should I be worried about the temps or could it just be the send unit or gauge?
Thank You
Doomah
You'd better have a thermostat.
If you don't, you need to get a new thermostat and a new engine builder.
Since most automotive temperature gauges have a tolerance of about 10%, the key question is How accurate is your gauge?
A 10% error means that at 195° your gauge could read anywhere from 175° to 215°.
Use an infrared thermometer gun, which you have calibrated against boiling water in a minimally reflective pot (black enamel is good) and see what the temperature actually is before you go any further.
By the way, does your car have a fan shroud and a fan clutch?
- Eric
If you don't, you need to get a new thermostat and a new engine builder.
Since most automotive temperature gauges have a tolerance of about 10%, the key question is How accurate is your gauge?
A 10% error means that at 195° your gauge could read anywhere from 175° to 215°.
Use an infrared thermometer gun, which you have calibrated against boiling water in a minimally reflective pot (black enamel is good) and see what the temperature actually is before you go any further.
By the way, does your car have a fan shroud and a fan clutch?
- Eric
I ask the engine builder and he said no thermostat, he told me there is no reason for one. The way i under stand is that with out one the can will just take longer to heat up on cold days?
But i still think my car is running a little high i got up 200 temp on a ride to work yesterday and it was only 80 degrees here. Takes is about 30 mins to work not really traffic just light to light.
I have a fan clucth the AC delco one from rock auto,
I have a fan shroud and 18 inch fan.
I just got the thero gun comes in today hoping to take a look this weekend
But i still think my car is running a little high i got up 200 temp on a ride to work yesterday and it was only 80 degrees here. Takes is about 30 mins to work not really traffic just light to light.
I have a fan clucth the AC delco one from rock auto,
I have a fan shroud and 18 inch fan.
I just got the thero gun comes in today hoping to take a look this weekend
Just want to make sure I understand the items that can be making my engine run a little hot.
it can be the carb( maybe it is to lean) Air fuel gauge says 12.3 when idle/in drive
Engine timing is set to 37 degrees
Fan clutch is not working
no thermostat?
I read somewhere that there is has to be a spring in the lower radiator hose? not sure about this one.
Radiator is just broken?
Gauge is just off and everything is ok?
If I forgot anything please let me know
Thanks the help
it can be the carb( maybe it is to lean) Air fuel gauge says 12.3 when idle/in drive
Engine timing is set to 37 degrees
Fan clutch is not working
no thermostat?
I read somewhere that there is has to be a spring in the lower radiator hose? not sure about this one.
Radiator is just broken?
Gauge is just off and everything is ok?
If I forgot anything please let me know
Thanks the help
Just want to make sure I understand the items that can be making my engine run a little hot.
Again, your temps are normal
it can be the carb( maybe it is to lean) Air fuel gauge says 12.3 when idle/in drive
I don't see a real issue here.
Engine timing is set to 37 degrees
Is this total initial+mechanical at 3000 rpm'ish?
Fan clutch is not working
Does not play into cruising temps
no thermostat?
Put at least a 180 degree thermostat in there
I read somewhere that there is has to be a spring in the lower radiator hose? not sure about this one.
Not necessary as todays hoses are generally stiffer and don't usually collapse, a spring can't hurt either. You can usually find a suitable one on ebay.
Radiator is just broken?
Doubtful, as I said your temps are fine.
Gauge is just off and everything is ok?
You can verify with an infrared thermometer or another mechanical gauge
If I forgot anything please let me know
Thanks the help
Again, your temps are normal
it can be the carb( maybe it is to lean) Air fuel gauge says 12.3 when idle/in drive
I don't see a real issue here.
Engine timing is set to 37 degrees
Is this total initial+mechanical at 3000 rpm'ish?
Fan clutch is not working
Does not play into cruising temps
no thermostat?
Put at least a 180 degree thermostat in there
I read somewhere that there is has to be a spring in the lower radiator hose? not sure about this one.
Not necessary as todays hoses are generally stiffer and don't usually collapse, a spring can't hurt either. You can usually find a suitable one on ebay.
Radiator is just broken?
Doubtful, as I said your temps are fine.
Gauge is just off and everything is ok?
You can verify with an infrared thermometer or another mechanical gauge
If I forgot anything please let me know
Thanks the help
Then he's an idiot.
The thermostat does more than just regulate temperature. It provides a flow restriction that increases pressure behind it (in the heads) and helps prevent micro-vaporization of coolant adjacent to the combustion chamber walls, which interferes with heat transfer.
If your neighbor or your buddy doesn't know this, that's one thing, but if your engine builder doesn't know this, I have to wonder about him.
If you don't use a thermostat, there are special restriction plates that would need to be installed (no, I have no idea where to get therm), but since it is good to have a thermostat, there is no reason for you to worry about that.
Just install a 180° or 195° thermostat and be done with it.
And get a working fan clutch. You need it for stop and go traffic.
- Eric
The thermostat does more than just regulate temperature. It provides a flow restriction that increases pressure behind it (in the heads) and helps prevent micro-vaporization of coolant adjacent to the combustion chamber walls, which interferes with heat transfer.
If your neighbor or your buddy doesn't know this, that's one thing, but if your engine builder doesn't know this, I have to wonder about him.
If you don't use a thermostat, there are special restriction plates that would need to be installed (no, I have no idea where to get therm), but since it is good to have a thermostat, there is no reason for you to worry about that.
Just install a 180° or 195° thermostat and be done with it.
And get a working fan clutch. You need it for stop and go traffic.
- Eric
I was looking at new fan clutch I just want to make sure that this one will fit can anyone advise
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hd...model/delta-88
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hd...model/delta-88
I use a 2797 on my Delta. It is a very strong clutch, and will sound like a Cessna for about 10-15 minutes before it calms down. If you spend a lot of time in traffic on hot days, it is a great clutch. If you don't it it overkill.
It is also thicker than most other clutches, and some cars have clearance issues between the front of the clutch and the back of the radiator.
See this thread (which I think you read) for more information on dimensions, and measure your car carefully.
A 2747 would probably work fine for you, too.
Note that , and .
- Eric
It is also thicker than most other clutches, and some cars have clearance issues between the front of the clutch and the back of the radiator.
See this thread (which I think you read) for more information on dimensions, and measure your car carefully.
A 2747 would probably work fine for you, too.
Note that , and .
- Eric
Like Eric said, anyone -- especially an engine builder -- who says an engine doesn't need a thermostat is an idiot. Without one the engine won't just take longer to warm up -- it will never warm up at all (assuming your cooling system has anywhere near the capacity it's supposed to).
Now if you're building a race car and intentionally trying to keep the engine cold, that's a different issue.
Now if you're building a race car and intentionally trying to keep the engine cold, that's a different issue.
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