engine id help
engine id help
Hello all, I've was told I had a 403 olds in my truck but after an extensive search this evening I found a 350 cast on the block- near the rear on the passenger side. Under the #1 plug I found a 3A which I guess are the heads, and under the plug next to it I found a GM8. Behind the oil fill tube I found a 16 cast. On the intake is 411990, which from my search are 400/455 EGR heads, and there was a D6CE next to it. Do I have smorgasbord type of engine? Are there other numbers to help me identify what I have? I don't know where else to find them.. thanks for any help
What do you see on the shelf NEXT to the oil fill tube? The 16 is the intake, not the block. It should read 557752. That would make sense with the 3A you found on the heads. That would make it a 77-80 350.
3A is a 1977 or newer 350 head. The intake casting number you listed is a 403 intake manifold however the 16 is for a 350. So one of the number is wrong. My guess would be a poorly cast or dirty 411880. If it was for a 400/455 it would not fit as it is wider than the motor. Next to the oil fill tube is a shelf where you will find another casting number for the block. If its 395558 its a 1968-1976 block. 557752 is a newer 350 block casting. less desireable for street perfomance builds due to their windowed main web design.
you can use this link or the oldswiki site...
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/
hope that helps.
John
you can use this link or the oldswiki site...
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/
hope that helps.
John
the help
you guys have enlightened me, thanks! So it seems I have a 77-80 350 with the lightening webs?, and a 400-455 egr intake. The intake casting is very clear to be a 411990, the same area also had the d6ce. Looking lower definitely helped, I found a 557752 and a "big" 3B. I guess it's a 3b head? If I've got this right it should help as I get parts and such, I appreciate it!- Greg
Thanks for clarifying, that would probably explain why I was told it had a 403- the intake. Is it a pretty good engine for street use, just stay away from the mods? I'm thinking about freshening it up and changing the intake, anything I should be aware of?

Beware of cracks in the exhaust ports on those 3A heads. I'd get them magnafluxed when you rebuild.
thanks again, to a q. on timing
I was thinking about bolting up a set of headers, I do believe the passenger side manifold is cracked. Guess the extra heat on the engine(from cracked maifold) would be just enough to fry it? I just want something that runs good and doesn't leak..
On a different note, I've been trying to time this engine and the p.o. just had a distributor put in. If I hook up to #8 plug timing marks work, but if I hook up #1 plug the timing marks are 90 degrees away. If I try and time it by #1, I have to rotate the distributor 180 degrees to even get close and the engine starts to run crappy. Just to add, timed by #8 plug, it runs fairly smooth at idle and smooth running down the road. Is it possible they installed the distributor lined up with #8 cylinder instead of #1? It's weird to me and the only thing I can think is they put it in wrong...
On a different note, I've been trying to time this engine and the p.o. just had a distributor put in. If I hook up to #8 plug timing marks work, but if I hook up #1 plug the timing marks are 90 degrees away. If I try and time it by #1, I have to rotate the distributor 180 degrees to even get close and the engine starts to run crappy. Just to add, timed by #8 plug, it runs fairly smooth at idle and smooth running down the road. Is it possible they installed the distributor lined up with #8 cylinder instead of #1? It's weird to me and the only thing I can think is they put it in wrong...
I was thinking about bolting up a set of headers, I do believe the passenger side manifold is cracked. Guess the extra heat on the engine(from cracked maifold) would be just enough to fry it? I just want something that runs good and doesn't leak..
On a different note, I've been trying to time this engine and the p.o. just had a distributor put in. If I hook up to #8 plug timing marks work, but if I hook up #1 plug the timing marks are 90 degrees away. If I try and time it by #1, I have to rotate the distributor 180 degrees to even get close and the engine starts to run crappy. Just to add, timed by #8 plug, it runs fairly smooth at idle and smooth running down the road. Is it possible they installed the distributor lined up with #8 cylinder instead of #1? It's weird to me and the only thing I can think is they put it in wrong...
On a different note, I've been trying to time this engine and the p.o. just had a distributor put in. If I hook up to #8 plug timing marks work, but if I hook up #1 plug the timing marks are 90 degrees away. If I try and time it by #1, I have to rotate the distributor 180 degrees to even get close and the engine starts to run crappy. Just to add, timed by #8 plug, it runs fairly smooth at idle and smooth running down the road. Is it possible they installed the distributor lined up with #8 cylinder instead of #1? It's weird to me and the only thing I can think is they put it in wrong...
John
Last edited by OldsMotion; Oct 28, 2009 at 10:37 PM.
Most likely. since they are next to each other in the firing order it's likely they started at 8 (as 1) and worked around. In all reality the distributor doesn't care where #1 is as long as the entire firing order is correct. Me personally, I like things where they belong.
John
John
John
Thanks. It's a "work in progress" for sure.
1970_442_007.jpg
newwheelsoncar_004.jpg
This one was taken right after I got the rims. The paint job was a few months old. It looks much better in the pics I think, but that's what I get for $500 (paint job).
1970_442_007.jpg
newwheelsoncar_004.jpg
This one was taken right after I got the rims. The paint job was a few months old. It looks much better in the pics I think, but that's what I get for $500 (paint job).
71-72 are the soup bowls. They reduced the compression in the pistons on those years.
In 73, they started using the giant #8 heads to reduce the compression instead of the piston dish.
All right just wanted to say "thanks" again, and update you guys as I couldn't have gotten here without the help. I got the timing worked out, it ended up being off by one tooth. So now the engine is running better, and I can get new parts as needed now that I know which engine and yr range I have. Much thanks! Greg
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