Empty coolant from block = no freeze?

Old Feb 24, 2014 | 05:36 PM
  #1  
Swoopy's Avatar
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Empty coolant from block = no freeze?

finally buttoned up timing chain, intake and paint.

Took advantage of warm days to paint and now it's going back to the mid 20s.
searched for information on flush and fill and storage ideas and did not find what I wanted.

So, rad is out, drained, block drained by bottom drains and heater core flushed, hoses.

flushed motor by intake front two and rear One P side with water filling until water rose in rear and water pump to top heater hose pipe when covering pump intake with my hand.

motor is drained by drain plugs, so how much water is left? Enough to freeze in block or heater core? it is only water in block and core.

I read CO storage ideas and perhaps I could blow out with compressed air remaining water?

ideas? blow with compressed air? Button up hoses add coolant without rad to fill motor? or do I have to really add all accessories and start?

the latter will make for a long night, if need be.

pics coming.

thanks, Dave.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 05:57 PM
  #2  
tru-blue 442's Avatar
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Have you got a block heater
you can use untill you get time
to do the rest? You can blow out
the heater core with compressed air.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #3  
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The block is empty and fine IF your two block drains both drained. Often they are plugged backside and even if you take the plug out the juice does not come out.

I would blow air thru the heater core to be sure it won't become a block of ice.
What about the radiator?
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #4  
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No heater for the block. thanks tru-blue 442

I'll try to blow out core and block, seems like the easiest way to go.

Is there enough water in motor to actually cause trouble from freezing? (Drained as noted)

perhaps vacuum out water?

can ya tell I really don't want to assemble tonight.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:14 PM
  #5  
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I don't think you could get enough
c/air through the block to push it all out.
Will it be sitting outside? If in the garage
a small electric heater should be good enough
if needed at all.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #6  
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excellent, I'll blow out the core and try the block too.

Not too worried now, thanks Octania.

Yup, could not believe how far the old girl shot when I pulled her plugs!

had a funnel under the drivers side and it shot out two feet passed the funnel! Surprised me.

The p side also shot but not as a nice full steam!

flushed several times and water, shot clear and plugs are still out so I'm good. just a quick blow.

thanks all.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #7  
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Swoopy nests in the garage and it tends to be warmer then outside by 5 to perhaps 10 degrees. so maybe ok?

yea I thought that blowing the block would be slim chance to none.

Maybe the bright work light that gives off much heat would help if set under motor.

I 'll put a blanket or two to trap the heat, but if temps go to 26 and below, a little heat won't do too much.

thanks again.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:29 PM
  #8  
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If in the garage you'll be fine.
If you have a heatlamp, your set.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #9  
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If you've got it drained by the bottom drains the block will be fine. The tiny amount of water that is left will be able to expand upward and will not hurt a thing. Kind of like ice in a ice cube tray. As for the heater core you need to get it drained somehow. Comressed air might get enough of it out. Or pour a 50/50 mix in the top hose until it comes out the bottom hose. That should give you some protection depending on how cold it gets.
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 07:13 PM
  #10  
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+1. As Smitty says, the block should be fine, it's only when the water is trapped that things break.

You DO NOT want to use a block heater in a dry block, unless you like the smell of smoke.

I agree that pouring some antifreeze through the heater core is all you need - 50/50 or 100%, doesn't matter. Just pour that much more water in later when you fill the rest of it if you use 50/50.
Odds are that blowing it out took car of bidniss, though.

- Eric
Old Feb 24, 2014 | 07:17 PM
  #11  
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Back from garage. compressed air did the trick to the heater core. Pushed out some water, less than a cup, that was rusty colored after it ran clear with water.
some coolant in the heater hose is a good idea.
back to the garage.
Now I can sleep.
thanks all.
Old Feb 25, 2014 | 12:14 AM
  #12  
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I don't think it a good idea to leave the block or heater radiator empty.
Decent quality antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors, you have removed them.
Unless your engine isn't fully assembled I would recommend keeping it filled with a 50/50 antifreeze mix.


Roger.
Old Feb 25, 2014 | 12:26 AM
  #13  
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The only thing i'd be worrying about is using compressed air in the heater core and causing a leak.Drained block and rad no concern.
Old Mar 1, 2014 | 11:47 AM
  #14  
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All is well, no freeze.
Cleaned motor and sprayed what I thought was gold-ish paint during last warm spell. I call it mellow yellow as the car is green. Buds are making fun of the yellow already. Most likely it will get dirty anyway and its going to be replaced by a 425 soon.


Read that the Edelbrock manifold has issues with bracket alignment, so more fun. Might as well paint brackets since there off. Hmmm...perhaps green.


outside versus in garage with work lights (bright yellow) then relax suds.


Its been fun and looks way better, but most important, it will run better.


Can't wait to get back to the fun, Dave.
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #15  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Uhh, the anti freeze in the 4th pic should be poured into you - not the block....

Very purty looking engine! That will sure wake up anyone who opens the hood.
Old Mar 1, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Allan, it's definitely noticeable to say the least.


No doubt, got to keep the mixture right!
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