young olds

Idk if this is part of the problem in my other thread but still needs to be addressed. after the engine has ran/driven and shut off the carb will start to drip fuel out of the passenger side rear discharge nozzle. Its not really a drip though, its nearly a steady stream, and drips long enough to flood the engine to the point i have to hold the throttle wide open and crank a little while to start. I already replaced the needle and seat and cleaned out the internal fuel rail in the carb top. I did notice today that the carb makes a noise, i wanna describe it like a bubbling but not really, after a few minutes it started the fuel drip. any ideas?

oldcutlass

Edelbrocks are very sensitive to fuel pressure. Also is your float level correct?

coppercutlass

I had a similar issue. I had a stuck needle and seat but on a holley. You could also hear the carb "bubbling". I thought it was the carb getting too hot and it was "boiling". Well what was happening was when you shut off your engine there is psi build up left in the fuel system. With the needle and seat having crud in it when I shut the car off., the left over psi In the fuel system would push fuel past what ever tiny piece of gunk was making it get stuck partially open . , as the fuel is trying to push its way out it makes that bubbling noise. My fix was to drain the carb flip it up side down and shake it to rattle whatever was making it hang open a bit. Albeit My carb was new so I made that decision to shake it vs tearing into a new carb. haven't had any issues since. Im not saying this is what it is but that's my experience.

droldsmorland

Is it a Performer or an AVS? The needle/seat is likely being held open and its over filling the bowl and dumping into the venturi. This can be dirt or a bad float. Or it could be boil over from today's sheet gas. You may need to lower the float level. Pull the horn and look. Ebrocks tech support is great give them a shout if this doesn't help.

young olds

Its a performer. I replaced the needle and seat with new and cleaned it out in that area. I will check and adjust the floats if necessary.

droldsmorland

Are you using a mechanical stock style fuel pump? Verify fuel pressure. For a carb you should be around a steady 4-5 psi. Some say as high as 6.5 but I think thats to much for most street driven 3-400hp engines. Now thats a general rule of thumb (the 4-5). Check the installation manual specific to your carb which is down loadable on the Ebrock web site for exact specs. I believe for example a 1406 calls for 6.5 max. Im running 4 psi in a 327/375hp vette with a 1411. It seems happiest below 5psi where as the Olds likes 5 with a worked QJet.

young olds

I checked the float level and i set it to edelbrocks specs. Im using a stock mechanical fuel pump, dont know what type of pressure its giving the carb.

oldcutlass

Most vacuum gauges are duel purpose for testing fuel pressure.

young olds

i think i have one of those, how do you use it to test fuel pressure?

oldcutlass

You can setup a temporary "T" in the line and clamp it in, or just hook it up to the fuel pump and crank the engine over a few times.

young olds

if i have the correct gauge ill check fuel pressure tomorrow

nsnarsk65cutlass

Yes "T" it inline with the output side of the pump,you can run the engine.Nick

droldsmorland

As I reread the first post in this thread it sounds like your boiling. If so Id recommend installing a heat insulator between the carb and intake. If you have the exhaust crossovers in the intake consider blocking them off especially if you have an electric choke. Today's gas boils much easier than yesterdays. Thats why you set the float levels slightly lower then spec. My bet is if you got rid of the heat with the above fixes your problem would be solved.

young olds

It does not have an exhaust cross over. It has an air gapped style intake with water running through it instead.

young olds

Would running higher octane help? I'm only running 87

droldsmorland

To a small degree. Youd need to run Sunoco 260 to really see it though and thatd be a waste for a low compression engine. Its just how the gas is formulated theses days...crap IMO. You do know what I mean by heat crossover right? Also do the phenolic heat insulator under the carb. Are all the cooling air dams in place up front to help extract under hood hot air? Every little bit helps.

young olds

When exhaust gas has a passage through the underside of the intake to warm the carb/intake up. The olds 215 does not have that, it taps into the water to accomplish this. Idk what pistons were used on the rebuild but stock the engine is a 10.5:1 comp engine.

oldcutlass

I would run 93 in it.

young olds

I beleive the fuel is boiling. I took the top off the carb after driving and it was bubbling in there. What's the best way to cure this? I don't really have hood clearence for a carb spacer

droldsmorland

The only ways I know are listed above in my previous post. Installing the spacer and ridding the intake of any excessive heat sources. To put a insulating spacer on it you may need an aftermarket air cleaner with a "drop" base. Im not familiar enough with a 215 to know if you can you safely block the coolant running to the intake. If so that could help. How about hood louvers... or no hood..lol. But first try the highest octane gas you can find. Also look for gas which is ethanol free and try that too.

garys 68&72

You can try a carb insulator gasket. Typically only about 1/4", made out of heavy fiber. Should be able to find one for about $10 at most parts stores.

droldsmorland

So is it a 215 your having problems with, running a Performer? Or is it the 455 in your avatar with a Performer? Im confused.... Your not putting a 215 in that land yacht in your avatar are you?

young olds

the 455 is not the engine in question, thats going in my other 62. the engine im working with now is the 215 in a 62 cutlass, with a performer intake and carb. I dont want to block the water through the intake, thats where the heater core gets its water from. Ill try 92 octane, highest we have here, i will also do some measuring to see if i can run a spacer. I need to get this fixed because after it gets to operating temp and i shut it off it boils over and when i go to start it again if, i get a backfire, it catches fire. I already burnt up that crappy foam filter and today the fire was big enough i had to douse with enough water i had to pull the plugs to pump water out. it was getting scary. moral of the story, i have backfires when starting and my engine becomes on fire.

young olds

I put in an aluminum spacer, will that work or does it have to be phenolic?

oldcutlass

A phenolic would work better. What temp is the engine running at?

young olds

I don't have a temp gauge. After driving enough for it to boil over its hot but I can hold the upper radiator hose, only way I know to check temp without gauge. I touched the carb bowl area in a couple places and it was actually pretty hot, felt hotter than the radiator hose.

oldcutlass

I'd put a mechanical gauge on it and see. If it's getting hot enough to boil fuel this time of year there are more serious problems.

droldsmorland

Aluminum will do nothing more than enhance the heat transfer up into the carb when the engine isnt running and in "heat soak" mode. Go with an insulating material such as "Old" suggested.

young olds

Well i bielive i fixed the problem. the carb was almost cool to the touch when i got home and i didnt here any bubbling. Idk what did it, last i checked that space did nothing, only thing i changed since the spacer was the timing.