sincitycutlass

Hey everyone I need to get a new distributor I have 72 olds 350 I currently have a delco HEI. I want to replace it, a local parts shop told me a ACELL 59107 will work they have it in stock but i looked it up and its for 1978-1980 OLDS CUTLASS 350?? IM Confused what should i do?

MX442

There was no HEI in 1972, that's why it doesn't come up for your car.

MDchanic

Why do you need to replace it?

- Eric

sincitycutlass

My car the other day I notice the vacum advantance on the dist was not hooked up so I hooked it up and was running real good for a couple days until it would back fire a little at WOT on the freeway. then yesterday morning the car backed fire liked crazy when I took it for a spin and the motor died tried to crank it over and back fired LOUD!! It's getting fuel but seems like no spark

MDchanic

Maybe you need to change the ignition module.

... and check the timing.

- Eric

sincitycutlass

Thanks MDchanic I wonder if a parts store can test it

MDchanic

I doubt it, but I could be wrong.

It should be a $20-$30 part at your local parts store, though. Takes about ten minutes to install.

Also check for module wires pinched under screws inside your distributor.

- Eric

captjim

If it worked fine with the vac advance unhooked but not now, 99% chance it is the pick-up, very common problem. The advance causes the plate to move, eventually resulting in a connection problem, usually the green wire. Part is relatively inexpensive, but a little complicated to replace. The main thing is sererating the shaft and housing.

don71

CaptJim and MD have brought up very good points.

Most auto parts stores can test a GM HEI module.

If your module test ok, or you replace with a known good module and the car still won't produce spark, there is a good chance its the pick up coil thats bad....specifically the wires that connect to the module.

Those wires move around a lot in a lifetime and get chaffed and broken..even if the insulation still looks good.

Replacing the distributor is not a bad idea, replacing the pick up coil in there can be frustrating. So thats the easy way out, if its the problem. My experience is, they work or they don't...so, The back firing might be another problem alltogether...like what was stated, it could be a timing issue.

sincitycutlass

CAPTJIM i agree diffently happened a short while after connecting the vaccum advantance to the CARB Now here the question which will always be argued about i hooked to the vaccum line to the passanger side i think i should of hooked it to the driver side with the TH350 vaccum line

sincitycutlass

I was flooding the **** out of the carb when i was trying to start it and that when it would back fire....

I think once i get off today i will take the module to have it check n replaced then know that much atleast..

Are the GM module standard as far as finding a replacment

MDchanic

Flooding the engine WILL cause backfiring, if you do it enough, so that COULD be your only problem.
A high-frequency intermittent in an ignition module can do the same thing: by failing to fire on a number of cylinders, but occasionally firing on others, you can pump raw gas through the engine and into the exhaust system, where it ignites and POW!!
WARNING: you CAN blow up a muffler this way.

IF the module is no good, then any GM HEI 4-wire module should work fine. Just say it's for a 1975 Olds 350 if they look confused.

- Eric

sincitycutlass

Have you guys tried the accell gm hei corrected distributor cap

cutlassefi

I believe they are for clockwise ratio only.

MDchanic

Mark, since you're one of the undeniable experts, I will take this from you without a second of argument (I love to argue ), but I will say that I didn't realize that there are clockwise and counterclockwise caps. Do you know what makes them different?

- Eric

captjim

I am not a fan of guessing, unless you have a known good one lying around. Take the time to do some troubleshooting instead. I promise you, if the condition occurs only with the vac advance connected, it is the pick-up.

Frank3

15 years as a tech in GM dealerships tells me the answer is ... pick-up coil .
Look at the magnet , it has habit of cracking at the rivets , causing a ghost fire , or miss fire . Each crack acts as another magnet , causing extra signals .
Soak distributor shaft with carb cleaner , as the oil dries or carbons on the shaft , and can damage the bushing when forced out . then mark gear position relative to the shaft , remove roll pin with a roll pin punch , then spray more cleaner as you twist the shaft out gently . and try to keep cleaner out of electronics . penetrating oil also works , and may be safer in the top end .
Just my opinion , but GM ignition modules with " Singapore " written on it , are the only ones that will live any length of time . Every other one I've tried failed within 5k miles .
A complete over haul could cost as much as a replacement distributer , BUT you can tune your distributor with an advance kit , and adjustable vacuum advance .
Try here for some info :
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/hei.htm
You can use an ohm meter to check pick up coil , move wires while checking . Good bet to replace pick up coil if the cloth over the coil has fallen off .

sincitycutlass

Gear on the old distributor was worn out I have pics of it just have to go home to upload them. What the timing degree for 350 olds

RetroRanger

I have my 72 @15° w an HEI dist...some have mentioned as high as 20°. stock w points was 8° BTDC

sincitycutlass

15 with your vac hooked up? I just put it at 10 runs pretty good I wonder what moving it to 15 would do.

Frank3

You should be looking more @ total timing* when changing to a non-stock distributor , then use idle timing , or initial timing for reference .
Different distributors are set-up for what they came in , and may not be exactly correct for your set-up . Thats why there are hope-up parts to make it more adjustable .
I'm not sure how much timing an Olds engine likes , but it depends on amount of modification done .
I would guess about 36* total , all in before 2500 rpm ( this is what a timing light with an advance adjust **** is for ) , with vacuum advance disconnected .
Total with vacuum advance connected shouldn't get over 52* .
This is my best guess , and mostly based on Chevy , but should be a good place to start .
Try 15* and see if it works . then listen to what the engine tells you .

RetroRanger

nope vac plugged 15° I run it to ported vacuum and put the moroso advance kit in it w 1 mid and 1 light spring mech advance all in by ~3200rpms, in the spring (car is stored now) I gotta get an adjustable vacuum advance cuz i see to much advance under light loads

sincitycutlass

I unhooked the vacumn I set it at 10 and it went to 32 at around 2800-3000rpm it's hard when I'm doing by myself I need that gun that has rpm on it. But it runs good drove it home on the freeway good throttle response

sincitycutlass

Tomarrow I'll do 15 see if the difference Trial n Error right

sincitycutlass

Update Its alive!!! lol new distributor, accell cap n rotor, n accell hei super coil, since i was already messing with ignition put new ac delco plugs gapped them 45 n new accell 8mm balck wires. adjusted timing about 14/15 degrees What a difference car starts right up n moves like it never did.

sincitycutlass

Thank you all for your help also!!!!

Arrowstorm

Came across this thread because I see you had a similar problem as I do. I was wondering if you went with the GM Accel distributer? The 15907 I think. Did it take care of your backfiring problem?

Thanks!

oldcutlass

Your part number is wrong, you are probably referring to the 59107 dist. That is for a Chevrolet. The part number you want is 59113.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ac...ake/oldsmobile


Instead of dredging up old threads, I might suggested you start one of your own in the future and describe your problem and ask your questions.

dantecl

LOL! I can attest to this. Don't ask how I know.

billmerbach

If you ever need an extra super could I have one