The stock 2 barrel carb on my 66 F-85 has a lot of rust on it, one of the adjustment screws is frozen and won't move in either direction, and the choke linkage is sort of mangled and held on with baling wire from the previous owner. I want to replace it, and I'm thinking about getting a new intake and putting a 4 barrel (QJ?) on it. Is there any reason NOT to do this if I'm not doing any other upgrades right now and just buy a remanned 2 barrel instead?

 

A properly tuned 4bbl carb put on your 330 is a guaranteed power upgrade with no downside. The 2G carbs are good reliable carbs but a reman carb might not be tuned for your motor either.

 

Ok, thanks! Now... Got any recommendations for intake and 4bbl carb? I'm thinking for intake the Edlebrock 7111 or the 2711 are the best options, right? Should I go QJ and if so which one?

 

A '66 F-85 would have the left the factory with a two speed Jetaway transmission equipped with a variable vane torque converter a/k/a "Switch Pitch". The Switch Pitch converter makes a noticeable difference in performance. If the car still has a Switch Pitch converter the carburetor choice should take into account using one with linkage that will keep the Switch Pitch functioning.

 

For 1966 the switch pitch and kickdown switches were mounted in a common housing on the firewall. The factory optional 4bbl was a Qjet, so there should be no problem converting. The rod from the firewall switch/bellcrank to the throttle arm on the carb might require some modifications for length or offset if one can't find the correct OEM rod.

 

Keep in mind the choke differences between your early intake manifold and the later ones. You may need to use an electric choke.

 

That is good news. Didn't some of the '66 QJets have leakage problems at the fuel inlet....is it better to avoid a '66 carb anyway?

 

Which QJ should I be looking for? I think the Performer intakes will mount any QJ, from
what I understand….

 

Honestly the 76 and later 800 cfm models are best starting point are easy to convert to electric choke. What cam did the 330 2bbl run? Were they low compression?

 

Found an old Joe P post, looks to be low compression, probably high 8 to 1 actual compression which should mean the usual peanut cam. Get a 76 and later 350 or 403 and a 2711 intake. The later carbs have less leak issues, smaller float and extra cfm. The idle circuits are set up lean but should be fine with your 330 as is. The APT if notched and a screw put plug in the air horn makes part throttle AFR adjustment super easy. Rebuild it with a Cliff Ruggles kit and you will be pleased. It also makes a TH350 or 2004R trans swap easier. You could go Edelbrock, Street Demon or Holley. Any carb these days is $$$ these days, no matter what. Good luck.

 

The 1966 Qjets have several one-year-only "features" that were corrected in 1967 and 68. Goofy inlet valve, sheet metal well plugs that really do leak, fuel-damped secondary air valves.

 

I have a friend who is willing to give me a brand new Edelbrock AVS2 (1906). This would be a significant cost savings for me, but if the QJ will be a better performing carb with a more direct fitment then I will go that route. What are the pros and cons here?

If I go with a QJ, will a 76 and later QJ “bolt on” and work with the linkage and switch pitch, or should I go with a 66 even though it has the undesirable “features”?

 

If the AVS2 is free, go that route. Then pick up a 2711 manifold. Any carb will need tweaked to be right for your 330, a kit and chart is available for that carb. Do that add a TH350 and dual exhaust will make your car so much more enjoyable.

 

Ok thanks! The TH350 and dual exhaust is in the (longer term) plans!

 

If you should decide to get a quadrajet, the 1967 Olds QJ will directly replace a 1966 version and its undesirable traits.

 

Ok.. So I got the new 2711 intake and the Felpro MS 96027 gasket that Edelbrock recommended. It's the sheet metal "turkey tray" type that covers the lifter valley. I took my stock intake off and found that the 2 piece metal gasket Felpro 90736 under it along with a steel pan secured by two tiny bolts in the center of the valley. The 96027 tray lines up nicely with the other tray removed. Am I going about this right? Or should I put the smaller tray back and then go get a different gasket set (a new 90736)?

 

From what I know, the early engines had an oil splash guard in the lifter valley. The later engines removed that and used the “turkey tray” that has a center section that does the same job os the lifter valley splash guard. So either of those will do the same function. I say keep the original splash guard in case you ever use the 2 piece composition intake gaskets. Or just keep it for an original part.

 

Ok… so it’s either the splash guard or the turkey tray, not both, right? And if I’m going to use the turkey tray do I have to do anything with the 1/4” mounting holes that the splash guard used?

 

Yes, one or the other. I use Aviation sealant around all ports except the Right Stuff or Optimum Black around both sides of gaskets on the four corner water ports. I also toss the rubber end seals and use a tall narrow bead of RTV on the end China rails.

 

Ok. Thanks! I can leave those 1/4" threaded holes open?

 

Yeah, should be no issue.

 

Agree, not an issue.

 

Thats nice the 455 and the 330 have the lifter valley tapped for the splash guard, I wish the 350 came like this as well lol.

 

I'm not sure why Olds went away from the two piece gasket with a separate bolt on tray. Same goes for the one year only rocker shafts. Cost would be my guess for both.