Broken fuel line

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Old May 20th, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Broken fuel line

85 Delta 88 with 307 Olds:

Removed the fuel line from the carb and noticed it was already kinked. Then it tore

Tried to go the OE route, didn't work. What size hose and hose barbs do I need?
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Old May 20th, 2013, 06:22 PM
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Im horrible with hose sizes and reembering what size is what. I usually just take the line and hose to the local hardware store where they sell rubber fuel line and steel line barbs and fittings then i piece it all together before i walk out lol.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 06:46 PM
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3/8 fuel line should work ok with the stock setup.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 06:58 PM
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An OEM steel line, properly installed and used, will work fine. I am leery of rubber on the pressurized side. Use anti seize, don't over torque, hold the large carb nut still while securing or loosening the line nut.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Octania
An OEM steel line, properly installed and used, will work fine. I am leery of rubber on the pressurized side. Use anti seize, don't over torque, hold the large carb nut still while securing or loosening the line nut.
X2. I have seen this modern fuel line dry out and split under pressure. Maybe from the crappy fuel we have?
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Old May 20th, 2013, 07:30 PM
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I have had the same rubber sections of fuel line for 7 years. Now when I bought it my friend who worked at the local ace hardware told me the shiney black rubber fuel line dry's out fast. He cut me lengths of the dull chalky looking hose which is still holding up. Just my experience and what was told to me. I'll look tommorow and see what brand but I think it was goodyear fuel hose. Of course every year I inspect my rubber hoses and snug the clamps etc. Just to make sure.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 07:50 PM
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I had also suspected the rubber quality has diminished, too, so not sure who makes good hose now.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
I have had the same rubber sections of fuel line for 7 years. Now when I bought it my friend who worked at the local ace hardware told me the shiney black rubber fuel line dry's out fast. He cut me lengths of the dull chalky looking hose which is still holding up. Just my experience and what was told to me. I'll look tommorow and see what brand but I think it was goodyear fuel hose. Of course every year I inspect my rubber hoses and snug the clamps etc. Just to make sure.
Despite that, metal fuel LINE is much safer under the hood than a rubber HOSE and the cost is negligable. If you have a pick-n-pull near by, go snag a line that has already been bent. Otherwise, like others stated, 3/8" fuel line of the proper length already has the correct fittings. Just take your time bending it.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:24 AM
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X2 captjim! A temporary rubber hose fix, to get you home, yes. As a long term fix, you are playing with fire...literally. And that could be life ending for the car and the occupants. I love Ace Hardware, but last time I checked they weren't an auto parts store, and probably have the stock of rubber hose impervious to today's fuel additives. Even some ayto parts stores don't. Notice where the rubber hose connectors are located from the factory. They are down low at the fuel pump or at the frame on tank installed pumps, so if there is a leak it goes to the ground where there is little chance of fire.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:58 AM
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No doubt metal lines are safe but I have not had issue with my rubber hoses . Now my whole fuel system does not consist of it but I do have some sections probably unde 6 in. Where I used it. I go to the ace because my friend works there and they actually have better hoses than the local parts store and much cheaper.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
I am leery of rubber on the pressurized side.
Better not drive any EFI cars then. My truck has factory rubber lines and 45 psi.

Two things to note. Ethanol WILL deteriorate older rubber lines. You can buy new rubber hose that is rated for ethanol AND high pressure for EFI. Be sure to use high quality hose clamps. Be sure the rubber lines are routed in a way that does not allow vibration and chafing.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 10:58 AM
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I converted my fuel line from steel lines to the braided A/N fitting hoses. I also used this for my transmission cooler. It is one of the easiest upgrades I've done. This stuff is great.

The hard part is finding the fittings that you need. When I put the hoses between the fuel pump and carburetor I had to get a 5/8 male inverted flare to 6 A/N male fitting. I finally found it at a local pumbing shop. It cost me $12. When I did the transmission cooler lines I made sure I had the right fittings ordered from Summit before doing the coversion.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:12 PM
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This is going to be a temp fix, still plan on swapping the 330 in next year, and that will have a steel braided line with AN fittings going from stock pump to Edlebrock Carb. I tries using the same hose, but I couldn't get the angle between the fuel filter housing and the water neck
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:12 PM
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And junkyards by me, 307's come up very short
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
I converted my fuel line from steel lines to the braided A/N fitting hoses. I also used this for my transmission cooler. It is one of the easiest upgrades I've done. This stuff is great.
Not trying to bust your *****, but how are rubber hoses ( no matter the quality ) an 'upgrade' over steel lines?

Redog, you can still buy that fuel line new;
http://classictube.com/shop-online?p...ategory_id=981
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Old May 21st, 2013, 06:01 PM
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This is essentially the kit I got when I installed the A/N fuel hose. It was an excellent investment and easy to install.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3156

If it is good enough for Uncle Sam it is good enough for me. I've heard that A/N stands for Army/Navy fittings. I believe they were first used on miliatry vehicles.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 06:12 PM
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double v. the hoses he speaks of are cover in braided steel. Imo a great upgrade. Im goin to an here pretty soon too. they are pretty leak proof and look killer.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 07:00 PM
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Yes, they're rubber hosed covered in braided steel, but steel lines are ALL steel! They're 'steel covered in steel' if you will. Doesn't that make steel lines better? My veiw is that rubber can deteriorate over time, possibly causing bits of rubber debris to get to places it shouldn't be.

Rubber hose/braided steel line is much easier to 'fab' up your conections, but if you already have perfect fitting factory bent lines, then it seems replacing them with rubber hose ( whether covered in braided steel or not ) is the inferior choice with no upside ( unless you're doing it only for the looks and you go for that sort of thing ).

Unless someone who knows about this stuff can show me how braided steel line is a 'great upgrade' over normal steel line, I'm going to continue thinking braided steel lines are a 'downgrade' or a lateral move at best over steel.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Next time you got to the dragstrip look under the hood of alot of cars you will see AN. fittings and braided hose use alot and i do mean alot. To me it makes no diffrence. Here is my friends 9 sec 71 442. I dont think it's a downgrade.


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Old May 21st, 2013, 07:11 PM
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Steel braided fuel and hydraulic lines have been used safely for ions in the aircraft, marine, and motorsports industries. It's a time proven plumbing system, just as steel. It really boils down to preference. The main advantage of flexible lines is ease of installation.
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Redog
85 Delta 88 with 307 Olds:

Tried to go the OE route, didn't work.
Why not? GM# 22506485 is still available from VPI. It's not cheap, about $24.00, but can be ordered by any GM dealer if you want the original part.
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 03:46 PM
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Steel braid over rubber does not allow you to see when the rubber is deteriated.
Hydro lines have steel braid inside the hose. Steel braid on the outside will keep the fluid from spraying out. AN fitting with true steel braid,(in the hose and out) is a good set up, but aint cheap if you do it all. Just my .02
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
double v. the hoses he speaks of are cover in braided steel. Imo a great upgrade. Im goin to an here pretty soon too. they are pretty leak proof and look killer.

This is so typical of you. You take a position, then defend it to the death. The guy has a mid 80s Delta with a 307 and a bolt on replacement metal line is available for $20. Braided hose and AN fittings have no place on a stock driver. Yes, they look good. Yes, on a high output engine requiring a large fuel delivery it is a good investment. Not on a 307 powered stock driver. Jeez.
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 04:44 PM
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Jim if you followed the thread the whole time you would understand why i said that. go back and read. Again assuming stuff. i never said that the op should do this . So what is your point. Someone said they converted to an lines and double v said something and i mentioned something about it as well. You must have tunnel vision. Btw jim they sell AN. lines in many diffrent sizes Not all AN. lines are -8 right. So if he wanted he actually could upgrade to AN. lines and keep the same amount of fuel flow.

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Old May 22nd, 2013, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
So if he wanted he actually could upgrade to AN. lines and keep the same amount of fuel flow.
See, you are doing it again. Why in the world would he "upgrade" a stock 307? Why suggest or mention it? Just makes no sense. How much $ would he have in the fittings and the lines?
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 06:02 PM
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Just from the fuel pump to the carb. Dude that's not a lot to spend. Again I did not mention the AN lines from the getgo. I just chimed in but I guess to people like you I'm the problem. Sorry just because you feel it's not a cost effective upgrade does not mean it's not an option like olds64 did. He upgraded and he is the one who brough an lines up. So go back to your rocking chair and stare out your window and be pissed at the world.
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 06:06 PM
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Also why are you so hung up on giving me crap. You said an lines where for high flow yet the -6 lines are the same size ans 3\8 line. The have no place in a stock driver maybe for you that's based on your opinion. I guess this is what i get for sayin AN lines are an upgrade. I didnt even reccoment he run them all i said was he could. Key word he could.

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Old May 22nd, 2013, 10:58 PM
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There are many different grades of braided steel hose, both rubber lined and teflon lined. The rubber lined is usually NOT rated for very high pressures (but is more than adequate for a carbureted system). There are different grades of rubber used in braided lines as well. The least expensive ones are NOT an upgrade over quality straight rubber hose, just more bling. I've had the rubber in stainless braided hose deteriorate from ethanol and actually had fuel oozing out between the wires of the stainless braid.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 12:44 PM
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C'mon guys. No need to argue on the internet. You won't accomplish anything.

I just mentioned the A/N hoses because it is an upgrade I did to my 71 98. I know alot of guys wouldn't think it was an upgrade, but I do. Plus, I don't see why one should worry about deteriorating fuel lines or hoses because if you do maintenance to your car they will be replaced after no longer usable.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
C'mon guys. No need to argue on the internet. You won't accomplish anything.

I just mentioned the A/N hoses because it is an upgrade I did to my 71 98. I know alot of guys wouldn't think it was an upgrade, but I do. Plus, I don't see why one should worry about deteriorating fuel lines or hoses because if you do maintenance to your car they will be replaced after no longer usable.
That was an accurate statement years ago, but not now. The problem is ethanol; it rots the hose from the inside, sending debrit through the carb or fuel injectors. This is a HUGE problem on boats.

Carillo rods are an upgrade, yet nobody uses them on a street build. Reason? Overkill and not cost effective, same as here. It would be different if the steel replacement line was not readily available at a nominal cost ($20).

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Old May 23rd, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Also why are you so hung up on giving me crap. You said an lines where for high flow yet the -6 lines are the same size ans 3\8 line. The have no place in a stock driver maybe for you that's based on your opinion. I guess this is what i get for sayin AN lines are an upgrade. I didnt even reccoment he run them all i said was he could. Key word he could.
OK, give me one good reason why the OP should use AN fittings and braided line when the steel replacement line is available for twenty bucks??

The nuances of the English language escape you, that is one of the issues with your posts. By stating that he "could" go that route, you are "implying" that it is a reasonable option. Again, why suggest it in the first place? Put the stock steel line on it, cheaper, easier, safer, period.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:25 PM
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Jim you seem to just really dislike anything I say. I originally said to just go to the hardware store and fix it there. Hardware stores around here have steel line fittings and fuel hose even fuel filters. I don't think you buy AN lines and fitting at the local ace. Anyhow you seem to think I disagree but I never disagreed injust said I felt AN. Lines where an upgrade not that he should go that route and the he could if he wanted to actually run AN lines if he so chose to but I think he will go the oe. Route and there is nothing wrong with that. You seem to really just hate me and try really hard to pick at every little detail on anything I post like a egotistical control freak. So on that note have I told you to go pound sand lately.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:35 PM
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I say stock steel line also for longevity, but to each their own.
We can suggest a solution and the advantages but in the end they can do what they want.
I have experienced enough rubber/plastic failures for me to decide.

Lets not argue anymore please.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Jim you seem to just really dislike anything I say. I originally said to just go to the hardware store and fix it there. Hardware stores around here have steel line fittings and fuel hose even fuel filters. I don't think you buy AN lines and fitting at the local ace. Anyhow you seem to think I disagree but I never disagreed injust said I felt AN. Lines where an upgrade not that he should go that route and the he could if he wanted to actually run AN lines if he so chose to but I think he will go the oe. Route and there is nothing wrong with that. You seem to really just hate me and try really hard to pick at every little detail on anything I post like a egotistical control freak. So on that note have I told you to go pound sand lately.
I just re-read your posts in this thread. Your first recommendation was fittings and rubber hose. Considering the fact that the hose snakes around spinning belts and pulleys, not a very safe way to go. Your second suggestion was the braided/AN route. You never suggested using a metal OE line. I don't hate you, I just think you constantly give bad advice and make hasty, incoherant posts. When I feel that way I state the reason why I disagree.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:51 PM
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I have used rubber, steel, aluminum, and my current fuel system is a combination of them all. Check out my fancy fuel set up lol. This has worked for me for years ! Im not saying it's correct but this year i finally have the money to upgrade to AN. lines and some nice 3/8 aluminum line with the proper AN. fittings. Also notice how my rubber line is nowhere near spinning objects. With a q jet a soft 90 deg bend / curve and his hose location would be close to mine. Im not saying it's right but it wont be near anything that spins.

I thought i would share this : Im horrible with hose sizes and reembering what size is what. I usually just take the line and hose to the local hardware store where they sell rubber fuel line and steel line barbs and fittings then i piece it all together before i walk out lol.
My first post on this thread.


Notice how i mention rubber line steel line and barbs.

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Old May 23rd, 2013, 05:58 PM
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The thing I worry about with rubber is the tenancy to split and leak, often spray when under pressure. I found this happens mostly after fuel has been in it a while then dries up, like when the car is not used for a long time.
The lower rubber quality and the crap in our fuel are probably the reasons why. If you want rubber, use fuel injection grade at least.

Copper, I like that air cleaner lid! I have some old tupperware bowls with lids that look like that.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
I have used rubber, steel, aluminum, and my current fuel system is a combination of them all. Check out my fancy fuel set up lol. This has worked for me for years ! Im not saying it's correct but this year i finally have the money to upgrade to AN. lines and some nice 3/8 aluminum line with the proper AN. fittings. Also notice how my rubber line is nowhere near spinning objects. With a q jet a soft 90 deg bend / curve and his hose location would be close to mine. Im not saying it's right but it wont be near anything that spins.

I thought i would share this : Im horrible with hose sizes and reembering what size is what. I usually just take the line and hose to the local hardware store where they sell rubber fuel line and steel line barbs and fittings then i piece it all together before i walk out lol.
My first post on this thread.


Notice how i mention rubber line steel line and barbs.
No, you said "steel line barbs", not steel line and barbed fittings. Also, I bet you the OP has an a/c compressor and an air pump along with heater hoses. Also, the OP will have a stock intake and Q-Jet, there the inlet weaves around the thermostat housing. Again, you go on and on, trying to defend your statements.

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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:07 PM
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Lol the tupperware lids !!!!!!!! Yes i remember my mom having some from probably back in the day with all kinds of weird colors like puke green and pumpkin orange. I think i might get a tupperware sticker for the lid now lol. I also work under the hood constantly so to speak since i have a pin on hood., but I do regularly check my fuel line and coolant hose's brake lines etc. Specially before i hit the track i have my big laminated check list i go over. If you look at my coolant catch jug. That shiney rubber hose is 5/16 fuel line. I can tell you it is ROCK hard it has not cracked but it isn't even flexible any more. My friend told me stay away from the shiney fuel hose get the chalky black goodyear fuel hose. I did and so far so good.
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 06:09 PM
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Jim if remember correctly the ac compressor does not run that close to the area i belive they sit close to the valve cover. Ah yeas the steel line barb is my fault should have been steel line , barb fittings,. My fault on that one. That little comma always throws ya off dont it ? I wanna see if i can find a product call a steel line barb. That proves how you pick my post apart becasue most people would probably see it for what it was worth but now you are on a war path and any little thing you can use you use. It's like an argument with my fiance anything she can use she will try to . Also fwiw he could get a better fit than me notice how i used a 45 degree elbow at the pump .

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