biggest dumb@$$ award goes to me
#129
Rusty roger all my refrences didn't mention 140 for the diesel I kept seeing 130 I saw 142 for the v6 diesel but it had specific instruction to tighten certain bolts to 59 ft lbs and the rest to 142. But the 130 was for an engine with half inch bolts according to the books .
#130
Bill, when you go to put your exhaust manifolds back on,
I would go with new bolts. You were lucky none snapped off.
You go torquing on old ones, you will be cussing yourself.
Ask me how I know...
I would go with new bolts. You were lucky none snapped off.
You go torquing on old ones, you will be cussing yourself.
Ask me how I know...
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#131
*sigh*
"head bolt size" is by definition the diameter of the thread [and length] of the head bolt.
BOLT HEAD size perhaps? The size of (the head of) the "head bolt"...
I call it WRENCH SIZE because that makes sense, but in catalogs they often call this measurement, which has NOTHING to do with the torque value for the fastener, and can vary for a given bolt diameter.... "AF"
WTH, you say, is "AF"?
Took me a while to decipher that; other engineers I work with had never heard of it. It is for "Across the Flats". AKA, the size of the wrench or socket that you need to proceed.
It is not uncommon for non-std wrench size to be specified for an application. Think Olds rocker cover and oil pan 1/4" fasteners. The usual tool size for a 1/4" screw is 7/16", but for this low torque application, Olds used a 3/8" AF flanged fastener.
Similarly, the SBO main cap fasteners are typically 7/16" diameter for #1-4 and 1/2" for #5 but ALL of them bear 3/4" AF heads- the std size for the 1/2" fasteners, but larger than the std size for the 7/16" screws. Only one size drive tool needed for all of them.
OK well then I guess I have the 7 16
======================
Find out for sure, don't guess
In my experience with Olds engines, the 7/16" head fasteners use an 11/16" socket or tool, whereas the beastier 1/2" fasteners require a 13/16" tool.
Oh, and if you apply 120 ft-lbs to a 7/16" fastener, you will probably produce the 2-part screw that provides no joy- or clamping force.
PS I took some liberties here with the terms "bolt" and "screw" but they are actually defined differently, even if we USE and REFER TO the parts interchangeably as we wish.
"head bolt size" is by definition the diameter of the thread [and length] of the head bolt.
BOLT HEAD size perhaps? The size of (the head of) the "head bolt"...
I call it WRENCH SIZE because that makes sense, but in catalogs they often call this measurement, which has NOTHING to do with the torque value for the fastener, and can vary for a given bolt diameter.... "AF"
WTH, you say, is "AF"?
Took me a while to decipher that; other engineers I work with had never heard of it. It is for "Across the Flats". AKA, the size of the wrench or socket that you need to proceed.
It is not uncommon for non-std wrench size to be specified for an application. Think Olds rocker cover and oil pan 1/4" fasteners. The usual tool size for a 1/4" screw is 7/16", but for this low torque application, Olds used a 3/8" AF flanged fastener.
Similarly, the SBO main cap fasteners are typically 7/16" diameter for #1-4 and 1/2" for #5 but ALL of them bear 3/4" AF heads- the std size for the 1/2" fasteners, but larger than the std size for the 7/16" screws. Only one size drive tool needed for all of them.
OK well then I guess I have the 7 16
======================
Find out for sure, don't guess
In my experience with Olds engines, the 7/16" head fasteners use an 11/16" socket or tool, whereas the beastier 1/2" fasteners require a 13/16" tool.
Oh, and if you apply 120 ft-lbs to a 7/16" fastener, you will probably produce the 2-part screw that provides no joy- or clamping force.
PS I took some liberties here with the terms "bolt" and "screw" but they are actually defined differently, even if we USE and REFER TO the parts interchangeably as we wish.
Last edited by Octania; December 14th, 2014 at 09:28 AM.
#132
#134
Thanks but I'm done at the moment I noticed to me what looked like gap on the intake and I went back and read the directions to realize I read the wrong ones and didn't put the silicon on the gasket....pissed I messed up again but I'm happy I went back and reread things
#138
#139
Octania yes I said that backwards lol. Moral of my story is you go by the diameter of the threaded portion of the cylinder head bolt.
Last edited by coppercutlass; December 14th, 2014 at 03:40 PM.
#141
I was using a cutlass book butanother one I had said 80 OK I got a question can I use the hih temp rtv the red stuff on the valley pan that stuff is silicone so it should work right?
#145
Of course but the stuff that was in there was dried up and I thought it was for the black gaskets so I used a dab of high temp rtv and then as I was bout to put water in there I basically realized that the stuff they gave me was for the valley pan so I threw my hands up And quit for the day
#146
Your not the first to do this. The dried out stuff in the tube is just black RTV. Also make sure the little pilot bosses drop into the holes and the gasket lays flat on the heads.
Anyone can take an engine apart, the skill lies in put it back together correctly. There is a difference between ignorance and stupidity. Ignorance is making a mistake without knowing better, stupidity is when you do it again.
Anyone can take an engine apart, the skill lies in put it back together correctly. There is a difference between ignorance and stupidity. Ignorance is making a mistake without knowing better, stupidity is when you do it again.
#150
You can reuse but there is a chance of vacuum leaks, I have had good luck reusing. I use Permatex Aviation sealant around all the ports, both sides except the 4 end water ports. I use RTV both sides on the 4 water ports and tall beads in place of the rubber end seals. If it is 77 and later, you can go 130 on the head bolts. Didn't you put in a 307? Then it is the higher spec. Hopefully you put oil on the threads. It will hold fine though, even at the 80 spec.
#152
#154
#157
Actually, you've got it backwards. The valley pan keeps the hot intake from cooking the oil splash into carbon. The bottom of the intake right under the carb is the exhaust crossover. It allows exhaust gases (1000+ degrees) to warm the floor of the intake to improve cold-weather drivability.
#159