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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:25 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
Oh and I do have a pressure tester for the cooling system can that tell me as well if I have a bad head gasket like if I put pressure to it and it loses it quickly
Kinda
It will pressurize the system if there is any bad parts hoses, radiator, water pump, intake,heater core, head gaskets
As it looses pressure you should see the coolant ( some times leaks are internal and you can see them but you will loose pressure )
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:27 PM
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I'm thinking this is my case one sec I find a picture of what I think I have
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:31 PM
  #83  
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The compression leak causing overheating
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:34 PM
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Bill is that a olds head gasket diagram ? Or generic?
But in any case yes, if you pressure test the system one if the cylinders should fill up with coolant.
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:40 PM
  #85  
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28CC13FE-82FF-4C61-9379-3F6E7B4CF690.jpg


I also bought one of the ebay snake cameras for 20 bucks I have used it to see head gasket leaking into the cylinders as well as bent valves just a thought

Last edited by oldstata; December 8th, 2014 at 06:48 PM.
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:41 PM
  #86  
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Its just a generic diagram showing the difference in head gasket leaks something I saw the other day doing some research granted ik that isn't the area its exactly gonna be at but it should help me in identifying. Oh and to Dave my oil I better drain her an save the oil cause it doesn't even have 10 miles on the oil
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Old December 8th, 2014, 06:41 PM
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Yupp I have a similar tester
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Old December 8th, 2014, 10:26 PM
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I had a head gasket go as in the diagram, 'compression leak to coolant', in my 4x4. Had me scratching my head until I asked the local radiator guy if he had any suggestions. Found it with a compression test, it had over pressurized the cooling system and blew it all out the reservoir overflow, several times.. No coolant found in the oil and the engine overheated at least once. Replaced the said gasket, coolant, oil and did a compression test on the motor. The vehicle is still running around 10 yrs later.
If that's indeed what you've done, I wouldn't worry too much. Have a beer and a sit down for a while.

Last edited by 73aussie455; December 8th, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
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Old December 9th, 2014, 03:58 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 73aussie455
Have a beer and a sit down for a while.
He can't have a beer while we're watching... He's sixteen.

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Old December 9th, 2014, 04:10 AM
  #90  
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Actually 17 I need to change that but I don't drink and never will I take my weightlifting too seriously
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Old December 9th, 2014, 05:44 AM
  #91  
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Cool.

Weightlifting definitely helps your focus and your patience.

And booze doesn't mix well with athletics (except for rugby, and softball, but only if you're over 45).

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Old December 9th, 2014, 06:26 AM
  #92  
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haha so heres my plan drain oil fill cooling system with water and pressure test if it looses pressure quickly im immediately going to drain it and pull the heads
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Old December 9th, 2014, 06:36 AM
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Sounds like a plan.

I would also recommend that if it loses pressure, you listen very carefully to see if you can hear the leak, in the oil fill tube, by the water pump, and in each spark plug hole (through a tube or a hose).

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Old December 9th, 2014, 06:50 AM
  #94  
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Gotcha I'm Hoping I get lucky here by what I've came to so far as far as what's happening I have
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:00 PM
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If it were me, 1st test I would put 100psi compressed air into each cylinder (like a leakdown test) while rad cap was off. I will bet dollars to doughnuts that you will find 1 cylinder leaking into the cooling system.
Make sure valves are closed and engine wont turn before you plug the air hose in!
JMO

Last edited by Warhead; December 10th, 2014 at 03:03 PM.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:06 PM
  #96  
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I don't have the tools to do that lol I'm gonna change the head gaskets this weekend it does appear that is my problem but whenever I change head gaskets I do both at the same time
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:43 PM
  #97  
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A cheap way to add compressed air to a cylinder is to gut a compression tester by removing the Schrader valve. Mine has a quick change connector that's the same as my shop air hose.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:44 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
I don't have the tools to do that lol I'm gonna change the head gaskets this weekend it does appear that is my problem but whenever I change head gaskets I do both at the same time
If your going to do the head gaskets think about having the radiator check or replaced maybe water pump and t stat.

In the near future I would think about doing the timing chain as well
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Warhead
If it were me, 1st test I would put 100psi compressed air into each cylinder (like a leakdown test) while rad cap was off. I will bet dollars to doughnuts that you will find 1 cylinder leaking into the cooling system.
Make sure valves are closed and engine wont turn before you plug the air hose in!
JMO
This is the way I found my bad head gasket on the old 330. However I wasn't testing for that, I was replacing valve stem seals. Hooked to #6 and my feet got wet from water spraying out the radiator over flow. Off came the heads.
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Old December 10th, 2014, 03:54 PM
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Timing chain doesn't have but about 2000 miles on it that's why I'm pissed I messed up a very good engine far too soon
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Old December 11th, 2014, 05:19 AM
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The timing chain won't be touched when you change the head gasket(s).

Roger.
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Old December 11th, 2014, 05:22 AM
  #102  
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Ik
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Old December 11th, 2014, 05:54 AM
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Changing the head gaskets is probably a good idea no matter what in your case. Years ago I, being an idiot, badly overheated my (aluminum head/cast iron block) engine. It ran well enough afterwards, but I suspected that I'd damaged the head gaskt and/or warped the head (eng had ~ 80K miles). Yet, it still had good compression and a leak-down proved OK. So... I let it be. However, the gasket did fail about a year later, and when it did it pumped coolant into the oiling system (I was lucky to catch this before it wiped the bearings and/or hydro locked on me).
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Old December 11th, 2014, 05:57 AM
  #104  
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Yea my dad had a similarly similar prob never could figure it put but same symptoms as I'm having now
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Old December 12th, 2014, 01:54 PM
  #105  
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Well the bolts to the exhaust manifolds came out without any trouble so that's down tomorrow I do the rest and by the end of the day should have her back in running order
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:34 AM
  #106  
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Well had some coolant passages that were blocked. Pulled h the heads and I am waiting on my friend who hopefully has me a valve spring compressor because valves are white
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Old December 13th, 2014, 09:12 AM
  #107  
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How white? Got any pictures?

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Old December 13th, 2014, 10:24 AM
  #108  
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One is almost totally white and the rest have tarnish colors to them but I'm figuring while the heads are off do this now
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Old December 13th, 2014, 11:11 AM
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REALLY white isn't good, but they may actually be okay.

I agree that it's good to pull the valves and check the guides and the seats while you've got the heads off, but they may be good to just put right back in

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Old December 13th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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It's probably due to the headgasket. I agree check the valve guide seals as they are easy with the head off and inexpensive to fix.
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Old December 13th, 2014, 11:39 AM
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To elaborate: A cylinder (and valves) that is taking in water will look unusually clean (and deposits on valves may be white).
Very white exhaust valves can also indicate excessive heat, usually from a lean mixture.

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Old December 13th, 2014, 03:27 PM
  #112  
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Ok seals are replaced and heads are torqued down to 70 foot pounds got too dark so I couldn't finish it. Anyways leaving it sit over night and tomorrow morning gonna go out in the morning and finish torquing and installing everything else hopefully I have a runner tomorrow afternoon
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Old December 13th, 2014, 03:29 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
Ok seals are replaced and heads are torqued down to 70 foot pounds got too dark so I couldn't finish it. Anyways leaving it sit over night and tomorrow morning gonna go out in the morning and finish torquing and installing everything else hopefully I have a runner tomorrow afternoon
Did. You see a break in the gasket ? Were the heads checked were the warped
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Old December 13th, 2014, 03:31 PM
  #114  
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No break in the gasket heads were fine I do believe the coolant passages I was telling you about were my problem.
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:41 PM
  #115  
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Bill I think head bolts to block should be 80. It's been awhile so if some one knows for sure please chime in
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:43 PM
  #116  
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That's what the book I have says but yes please someone correct me if I'm wrong
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:50 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
That's what the book I have says but yes please someone correct me if I'm wrong
Just looked in 442.com says 80
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:53 PM
  #118  
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Thanks for checking for me but that seems a little low I would think
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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:55 PM
  #119  
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+1: 80 ft/lbs for 7/16" head bolts.

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Old December 13th, 2014, 07:55 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
Thanks for checking for me but that seems a little low I would think
Wait tell others chime in that have a bit more experaince then I do with these motors 442.com isn't always correct
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