Best long tube headers for 84’ 307?
#3
Unless you buy a quality set that will fit without modifications, I suggest you get the cheapest ones possible. Then just use a BFH to make them fit.
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
#4
Does it have the complete stock exhaust? If so tuck it away if it isn't completely rotten. One member on the G body forum used the Ebay stainless headers on his 87 Cutlass. It actually fit better than on my 70 Cutlass which they were designed for. If you can find them, give it a shot. Very thick and well made and stainless. About half the price of Flowtech which rust quickly or Hedman. The ARH headers are great but ridiculously expensive.
#5
Unless you buy a quality set that will fit without modifications, I suggest you get the cheapest ones possible. Then just use a BFH to make them fit.
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
#6
https://metalinkwear.com/what-is-tsa/
#7
Does it have the complete stock exhaust? If so tuck it away if it isn't completely rotten. One member on the G body forum used the Ebay stainless headers on his 87 Cutlass. It actually fit better than on my 70 Cutlass which they were designed for. If you can find them, give it a shot. Very thick and well made and stainless. About half the price of Flowtech which rust quickly or Hedman. The ARH headers are great but ridiculously expensive.
#8
Unless you buy a quality set that will fit without modifications, I suggest you get the cheapest ones possible. Then just use a BFH to make them fit.
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
I bought a set of Hedman Headers for my 71 98 and spent over $500 about 8 years ago. They fit great but the ceramic coating has failed. They definitely look JALOPY! I might have to remove them and wrap them or get them chromed. Header paint is a waste of time and money.
Good luck.👍
#9
That's awesome! I never knew about TSA coating. I wonder what the durability is for headers?
https://metalinkwear.com/what-is-tsa/
https://metalinkwear.com/what-is-tsa/
#11
Have used both Hedman and BlackJack in both B and G body SBO of those years exactly and in H/O.
Fit was good without issue, you'll need to mod the trans mount crossover for a double hump or have pipe issue on the extension past . Since your 84 had only one cat and ran one side, but not a big deal to get the clearance. Assume your 307 is still on the brain box so you'll find a place for the 02.
"Factory stock headers" , must mean the ss manifolds.
Use the best thickest header gasket, bolts were a little tight to reach but you'll find out, retorque again after a day or so and they won't leak.
Properly stripped and washed , then hi temp primed with correct hi temp paint done with direction dry times between coats and proper cure has lasted exceptionally well. You must get in-between the primaries at the collector without fail from the first step. If you're into harsh climate and salt with gravel roads, things don't last as well.
A true coating is best.
Fit was good without issue, you'll need to mod the trans mount crossover for a double hump or have pipe issue on the extension past . Since your 84 had only one cat and ran one side, but not a big deal to get the clearance. Assume your 307 is still on the brain box so you'll find a place for the 02.
"Factory stock headers" , must mean the ss manifolds.
Use the best thickest header gasket, bolts were a little tight to reach but you'll find out, retorque again after a day or so and they won't leak.
Properly stripped and washed , then hi temp primed with correct hi temp paint done with direction dry times between coats and proper cure has lasted exceptionally well. You must get in-between the primaries at the collector without fail from the first step. If you're into harsh climate and salt with gravel roads, things don't last as well.
A true coating is best.
Last edited by LOUCKES'6487; December 2nd, 2023 at 02:55 PM.
#12
Shouldn't be on VIN 9 cars. All G-body 307 used cast iron exhaust manifolds in 1984 and prior. The dog "logs" came into being in 1985-up with roller cam Y engines. H/O and 442 all used cast iron exhaust manifolds. Unless someone changed them out on the H/O for some stupid reason.
#13
Shouldn't be on VIN 9 cars. All G-body 307 used cast iron exhaust manifolds in 1984 and prior. The dog "logs" came into being in 1985-up with roller cam Y engines. H/O and 442 all used cast iron exhaust manifolds. Unless someone changed them out on the H/O for some stupid reason.
My 84 "9" is at the back of the garage, only ever saw cast on those. Swapped for a better sbo.
Had an 88 roller in a big Cadi , they could carry a load down the highway but ran out of breath very early.
Last edited by LOUCKES'6487; December 2nd, 2023 at 05:16 PM.
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