Best fuel filter for 403 V8?
Best fuel filter for 403 V8?
Hey I'm back with another rookie question. I noticed that the inline fuel filter in the engine bay is a bit old. It had no markings besides "IN" on one side, while it's probably not the original it's clearly been in there for quite a while at this point and it seems replacing it would be the best path forward. The question is, what's the best option for this type of engine in your experience? Also the hose I pulled out if there for the main line is 3/8", I assume that's what it's supposed to be? Thanks.
Last edited by illumined; Jun 25, 2024 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Adding in some more info.
I noticed that the inline fuel filter in the engine bay is a bit old. It had no markings besides "IN" on one side, while it's probably not the original it's clearly been in there for quite a while at this point and it seems replacing it would be the best path forward. The question is, what's the best option for this type of engine in your experience? Also the hose I pulled out if there for the main line is 3/8", I assume that's what it's supposed to be? Thanks.
I'm with bangscreech on this one. Carburetor inlets can leak if they're not treated nicely and get cross-threaded or overtightened. But if treated right, they don't leak, and, while I agree it's not often, you DO need to change the fuel filter now and then, although I have only done it when I've noticed a loss in performance. Waiting until a carburetor is rebuilt to do it means it might never get done because not everyone rebuilds a carburetor during the time they own the car.
Some of us remove the in carb filter and put a 3/8" filter in it's place before the pump. I was having fuel starvation issues running my 403 down the 1/8 mile. I removed the in carb filter and replaced with the type of filter someone installed on your 403, problem solved for me. The in carb filter may look and flow perfect or be so plugged you can't believe it is running or somewhere in between and possibly deleted. You don't know till you look, just hold the 1" carb nut and use a good 5/8" wrench to break it free. Every Olds V8 I buy seems to come with a pre twisted pump to carb line.
To reduce binding of the tubing nut at the fuel filter housing, slide the nut back as much as possible, clean the tube where the nut rests, coat the area where the nut covers the tube including the back of the flange area that contacts the nut with anti-seize and then tighten the nut with a quality tubing wrench while holding the already tightened filter nut with a 1" wrench.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; Jun 27, 2024 at 07:31 PM.
I always make it a point to crack the line fitting down at the fuel pump and/or even back it out completely.
Having the ability to sway the line some side to side, makes things easier with less chances of cross-threading the inlet - rounding off the line fitting up there etc etc.
Having the ability to sway the line some side to side, makes things easier with less chances of cross-threading the inlet - rounding off the line fitting up there etc etc.
A 98. That's the one that I've seen so far, the external one between the pump the carburetor, but I'm pretty sure it's been in there for a while because it developed some surface rust on the housing. The car was benched in 2001 and a few years ago another guy got it I'm pretty sure he didn't mess with it. I figure the one that's on there now has been on since some time in the 90s. Better safe than sorry and should replace it.
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