xerxes600rr

I don't know much about cars and i bought my 72 "S" couple months ago. Just did my first engine pull. The car had a bad main bearing when i bought, couldn't beat on it. Any idea of anything i should upgrade while the engine is out of the car. This is some of the engine mods.


350 rocket, engine block was bored over 0.030
internal rotating assembly was balanced (crank, rods, pistons)
crank and rods are stock just lightened up when balanced
2 bolt mains have studs and connecting rods have studs instead of bolts
piston custom made diamond 11:1 compression ratio
cylinder heads machined 0.030 to make chambers smaller chambers are 77cc, was 80cc
heads have bronze valve guides performance valves at 1.98", 1.65"
dual valve springs for hydraulic roller cam at 0.050 234, 244 duration and 0.536,0.536 valve lift, (cam mondello racing)
comp cams hydraulic roller lifters, double roller timing chain
comp cam roller rockers, one piece push rods, high volume oil pump
mallory distributor and ignition box
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
Edelbrock 750cfm 4 barrel electric choke carb
flowtech headers w/ 3 inch dual exhaust, dynomax mufflers
100amp alternator, flex-lite dual electric fans, aluminum radiator
14x3 K&N

This is what has been done, it didn't not have vacuum lines hooked up. Will i see a strong difference w/ them done right. Going to have a full tune up and timing done when i get everything complete and put back together.

What kind of power would i be looking at for this car? {ballpark HP)

Looking to change rear end from open 2.73 to a tru track or posi 3.73, will that see significant diff?

Sorry for all the questions... I really want to learn as much as possible. 2 months ago i couldn't identify the carb, dist, intake, push rods, heads, valves from one another. Now i pulled an engine by myself.. I am all ears on ANY input anyone has on other mods or just advise.

Thank you for taking time to read this and i thank you in advance for anyone who leaves a comment.

cutlassefi

You have a bunch of good parts there, but the cam is way too big for the gear, or you don't have enough gear for that cam. I made the same change, from a 2.73 open to a 3.73 posi, night and day difference.

Have the machine work done that needs to be done. Degree the cam. The guy before you spent all the money on parts, you just need to make it work, right.

When you say tune up I'm guessing doing the little things you need too? Make sure the curve in the distributor makes sense. Replace everything that should be replaced, i.e. plugs, filters, vacuum hoses etc.

Again, if you're going to keep that same engine setup, you gotta change the gear.

captjim

Just double checking, but at .040 piston to head, those pistons will need a 14cc DOME, is that what you have?

Olds64

ABSOLUTELY! Your distributor should have ported vacuum going to the vacuum advance module. There are numerous items on a car that use vacuum: vacuum advance, PCV, power brakes, and the air doors for the AC / vent just to name a few of the necessities.

xerxes600rr

Please provide more info on how to do these kinds of things. I'm not sure what you mean by degree the cam.

Like i said, i'm just learning the parts of the car and basic function of each. i see you said i have a strong cam for that rear end. will my setup be good if i change the rear to 3.73 posi?

What kind of power should i be pulling with everything timed and calibrated correctly?

cutlassefi

You can find a bunch of posts on here regarding how to degree a cam. If you're not sure how to do these things, then you might want to think about having a competent machine shop do your assembly for you, at least the short block.

Then once it's assembled you can go from there, heads, intake etc. If done correctly and it really is what you say it is (compression, cam specs) then it will run great with a 3.73. Depending on the heads, you'll be approaching 400hp.