So I have found an open air cleaner that has a nice matte black finish. And looks almost factory, but really would clean up the look under the hood of my Toronado. I also enjoy the sound much better. Question is, I’ve never done so on a smog era car. Does anyone know what to do with the hoses currently connected to the air cleaner? I will attach pics. One looks like a crankcase breather hose, the other is some dumb smog thing most likely.

 

Post a pic of the new air cleaner for reference.

 

You need a chassis service manual. Get an original paper copy. Also, putting year and model into your question helps; I'm aware it is an 85 Toronado Caliente only because of your other posts.

One hose is definitely the air inlet for the PCV. If you take that off, you will need to replace the thing on the valve cover with a "breather" that has a filter for this sort of purpose. That hose cannot be plugged, and it cannot be left open during normal driving duties, it needs filtered air.

The second hose probably goes to your smog pump; showing us the other end helps. The smog pump also needs filtered air, or at least a screen, to avoid sucking crap up. This air is being shot right into your exhaust ports for extra combustion of anything that is left. While removing the entire system can be done, it needs to be done with intelligent thought beforehand. It may also be required to pass emissions inspection, depending on if your state is totalitarian enough to have emissions inspection.

I would highly recommend cleaning up under the hood of your Toronado by just detailing it and keeping it stock. It will be cheaper, will avoid throwing various systems you don't understand out of whack, and will look higher class. A Toronado is a gentleman's car. Open air cleaners are for 442s in the 60s.

 

What you might try before you start rerouting hoses and everything is just get a taller filter element in order to lift the air cleaner lid off the base. Depending on how much clearance you have between the lid and the hood, you should be able to open up at least a 3/8" gap (if not more) around the circumference of the air cleaner.

Looks factory, but flows like an open element.

 

i like that idea!

 

You can even turn the air cleaner lid upside down. Double check to make sure it clears your hood, but that is good for some added HP on the butt-dyno.

 

So I did end up trying the taller filter method. Car sounded great under load and the perceived “butt dyno gain” was also very positive. I grabbed some allthread at the depot to make the appropriate length air cleaner stud. It did however make the car reluctant to start when cold (warm ambient temperatures, but “cold engine”). Took a lot of coaxing where before it started beautifully and never stalled out. I’ve switched it back to stock for now. Missing the sound but it’s nice for the car to just…. Start, perfectly. Is that something that can be simply adjusted via a screw? Was is too lean with the extra volume of air? I don’t have a ton of carburetor experience. I was also curious to know what the purpose of the “inner air filter” inside the air cleaner is. It looks to be a very fine metal mesh of some kind. Wondering if it’s necessary.

Inner/second air filter???